01silvapathy

Severed is definitely not a nice sounding word, hopefully its just a connection that came undone. Looking at the fsm now to try and figure out how to take a look inside and poke around

Hey yall finally got around to driving the truck today after a week of it sitting pending time to work on the lift. So we had worked on the steering a bit and disconnected the joint and reconnected it thinking nothing of the wheel location. As I was driving out of the shop and turning sharp, I heard a cracking popping noise coming from the steering wheel. None of my wheel controls for cruise/volume work, and the airbag light is flashing steadily. Also my horn does not work, but honks when I lock the truck with the remote. Checked the relays and fuses and all are good. So my question is...what broke? I dont really know how to take off the steering wheel or how to get into it to look at things without the airbag going off Any help would be greatly appreciated! On a side note driving around with 6.5 in of lift in the front and 2in the back with around 8inches of cali lean def gets me the looks around campus!!!

Any updates with your alignment, Rick?

GAH NEED MY STRUT SPACERS....stupid USPS they fail so hard You need some lift coils imo

Id definately be interested in what he does to it if he can make it work.

Yeah, im just probably going to wait til shift220s spacers get here as I will most likely wind up using his. Other than the strut spacers and steering my kit is identical to his 4in kit. So hopefully that will fix the issues that I am having.

Im going to run 35's once I get my kit figured out and thats with a 4in sfd and 2in coils. But you would want to run a 33 at max with just the sfd.

Here is my quick 2 minute drawing in paint LMAO

Here is my idea for what we are going to try tonight. Cut some new tubing. Keep the top side perfectly flat, and the bottom angled somewhere between 8 and 10 degrees. The cam bolts really do not allow for much adjustment. The angle on the bottom will have the high side facing out and the low side facing in, allowing the outer edge of the strut and thus the knuckle to be brought up...atleast thats the idea.

LOL i get scared when I turn like that, its literally riding on sidewall.

I forgot the pic, but here is how it sits now. But in reality what can they adjust that I cant adjust in the shop by myself. The camber bolts are at their absolute max that they can go to. It feels terrible to drive like that, like the tires are just being chewed up like no other.

Okay so now I have another question. If yall think that the spacers being the extra height wont hurt it....wont that mean that the suspension will technically be higher up which means it will top out alot more often? I have the camber bolts but in the pic I will post below, they are adjusted to their MAX. Would maybe trying to adjust the tie rods help. Rick, do you have a front shot of your truck with how its aligned right now? Im guessing yall didnt mess with the tie rods.

Okay so a little update. We fixed the steering issue and it works great now, no binding or anything. We were unable though to fix the strut spacers. The spacers that I got with my 4in sfd kit measured 4 1/2 inches tall. I think that dumbass alex who made them, cut the tube part perfect at 4inches, but forgot about the two pieces of 1/4 flange that made the spacer 4 1/2 inches tall. His spacers were also straight and level. When you put the spacer on level ground and put a level on top its dead level. I believe this is wrong, and that the spacers need some kind of angle to keep the alignment and camber in check. We made new flanges and have tubing around the shop. My question is does anybody know the angle? Like is one side level and the other angled? Anyone have pics at all? Im in a bind cause I dont want to drive how its setup now, and its in the school ag shop parked where there are classes during the week and I dont want people messing with my truck in there. Any help would be great. Its amazing how helpful yall have been so far, people I have never met are really saving my life on this, and words cannot express my gratitude towards yall, I applaud all who have stepped up or tried to help me. Sorry for any typos, I have been working on this lift with buddy for 31 hours since friday and im tired and have class at 9 so yeah its been a rough weekend, hopefully it will be worth it in the end

Theres your problem you got some 22's

Okay so the lift is on. I have to get new strut spacers from shift (andrew) cause mine are messed up....the alignment is wayyy off. Also need to fix the steering cause its binding. Question for those who have done the sfd lift. Where is the steering rack that needs to be bent, I could not for the life of me find it. Any clues would help alot. Pics of yall's steering setup would help also. Here is a pic of what it looks like the tires and alignment are screwed. But its big the measuremet to the bottom of the fender flare is 43 inches

Hmm ya know I have not really thouoght about that. Im going to have to see if I can get ahold of him and talk about it. Altough MaxStryker ran 38.5x14.5 boggers on his r50 with pretty much no problems ill try and talk to him on facebook.

Okay so we quit working around 3. We got all the block mounted on the body side all we need to do is raise up the sub frame and bolt it together. We have had an issue with the steering joint and will have to modify it quite heavily to get it to work, but we have plan for tomorrow. We managed to strip out one of the LCA bolts but a new one will be had tomorrow thats no biggie. Here is a pic of how we left her for the night

Little update. Started work around 8 ish been working 2 and a half hours. Axle was just dropped. Motor mount bolts are out next and then the subframe will be dropped. We are going to finish this toight! We made a pact, no one leaves except for food and beer Had a bit of an issue with one of my cv's which the boot was already ripped on anyways but its good for now.

Get some lift coils bro

It would be pretty sweet, im actually installing my lift in about an hour. gettin all my stuff together (camera, beer, food, compter all that jazz) Plus they are all Q's so we have the power too boot! Planning on running 35's tho

Sweet! Is that a 4in sfd with the 2in coils?

Or Subframe Drop-Drop for people who want to slam their r50's

Yeah, I was never really considering running the tube right into the filter anyways. Way too much can go wrong with that and forget about blocking it off on water crossings and such. The only things im still wanting to do is splice in some more wire and mount the IAT sensor inbetween the tb and filter as well as get a piece of screen mesh to mount to prevent all those bugs and such from slamming up and becoming embedded in the filter

That would be wayy to reasonable. Not only would the mateials cost more to get, but it would also take more work and time to fab up, also higher shipping costs would be associated with a bigger product.

Like I said I would love to mount it there but I dont even know how to cause the wire is not long enough. So yeah how would I go about lengthing it? And if I ever need to I can always just plate the intake for bad general weather like heavy rain and such there will still be air going into the engine bay through the grill and the many other gaps up in the space.