01silvapathy

That is the one downside to the lifetime warranty, you have to bring them back your old cv. When you go purchase your cv its like a little over 100 bucks, then when you bring back your old one half that is refunded bringing the cost down to 50 bucks. Just have to keep that one in mind.

Yes, its alot easier to replace the entire axle. I get mine from Orilleys cause they come with a lifetime warranty. Its good cause its basically paying for one axle then you just get another when it breaks. As far as the snap ring with the manual locking hubs. You MUST replace the snap ring. It keeps the cv in the hub thus driving your wheel. If its not there the end of the cv can move back and forth and even come out which could break things and cause alot of damage I could imagine.

Thats an interesting idea right there! Next time I have a busted cv I will be trying that

Okay so I changed out my cv shaft last week and I find that this is the easiest and quickest way to change it out. There has been alot of debate on how to take it out and what not but this is what works. My myself with hand tools with the exception of an impact for the lca bolts I did the change in 32 minutes. Before anything put on the parking brake and jack up the front end placing it on jack stands! First off put the truck in 4wd with the hubs locked, and go under the truck and use a 12mm wrench to loosen all the 6 bolts that attach the cv to the front diff. Do this now so as to help stop the axle from turning when you are breaking loose the bolts Next up unlock the hub and take the 6 allen head screws off the hub and remove the cap, careful not to rip the gasket that lies underneath. Remove the snap ring thats inside the hub that holds the cv in and keeps it from slipping out Undo the lower control arm bolts, the one front one and two back bolts Front bolt Rear bolts, crappy pic but there is another bolt on the other side that needs to be removed to let the control arm drop Removing those bolts will allow the control arm to drop Then slide the cv on the diff side downwards while pulling back and out, the cv should slide out with ease What a screwed up cv shows Then re install the cv back into the hub, and sliding back up towards the diff, bolting back into location. Replace the snap ring in the hub and replace the 6 bolts that hold the manual hub cover in. Bolt the lower control arm back into location. and torque everything to spec. New Cv Installed Total time was 32 minutes to complete. Questions or comments leave them, or if you think you have a better way then please share!

When you say take the manual hub off, you dont mean the whole manual hub do you....cause its not necissary. All you need to do is take the allen screws off and remove the snap ring...then the cv should unbolt at the drive flange on the axle and remove the lower control arm bolts and then the cv should slide down and out.

Damn dude, thats a helluva lot of stuff to go wrong. But hey you have to pay to play right? Glad its all worked out now, and I hope I dont have the issues you had when I finally get around to changing my ball joints

Even though that bar is longer which would help it with binding issues, it still does not bring the panhard back to the original location before the lift was done. Just went and tested it out, works great!

Thanks again for all the helps guys, I finally got it done tonight took us 6 hours to get a completed drop bracket cause we made two lol. We followed the plans from above and made it and realized it looks like crap when its on there, so we modified it to be alot easier to make and lower profile so it does not stick out as much. Here is a teaser pic, I will make a legit thread on it tomorrow but its 3 30 am here and im goin to bed!

This is bs, sure it does not stop like a racecar with 33's but it never did stop well in the first place..... Been running 33's for over a year now without issue, just have to know your stopping distance is increased

Its the same idea though. So just compensate for the amount of lift you have and then go from there in terms of bolt locations and such

Okay this seems easy enough to make. If im reading this correct than there are two sleeves that go in the top for support...I guess to keep it from pinching together once torqued. Thanks alot for the pics man, im a visual learner so its extremely helpful!

Thanks for all the info guys, esp you Mudd! Going to be making one of these later tonight if not tomorrow.

Okay so at the moment with my new lift in the rear my axle is pushed to the passenger side an inch or so....no biggie for driving on the street but it is an issue as soon as I go wheel and flex up the axle. My tire rubs on the shock at near full flex wearing off the paint as well as making a TERRIBLE NOISE! It pretty much stops the truck too. So my question is how much do I know to drop the panhard? I have a 4in sfd but the rear spacers were no where near 4in. So my real question is whats the angle of the panhard on a stock rig or how much do I know to drop it? Should I go with the height of the spacers or just go with 4in? Keep in mind I have the 2in lift coils ontop of the lift. Looking to do this tomorrow or saturday since its my last weekend here at school where I have the tools needed to do this. Thanks for the help guys! And here are some quick pics And I know that this could most likely be remedied with larger offset wheels since they are the stock bs...and im on 11.5 wide tires. But I dont have the money for them and ill just get it to where its as close to stock as possible.

Its always been offroaded seriously But yes that is a good point!

Yeah im probably going to wind up goin with OEM bj's. Thanks for the advise guys

Uhh, I dont have any specs that I can give you. However I do know that somewhere located in the sfd thread in the pinned topics there are pics posted up. Check through this thread for pics http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=23821

I hope im not wrong here, but are'nt there only lower ball joints on the r50's Please for the love of god let me not be mistaken

So im getting around to needing new ball joints for the truck and I was wondering what brands others have had success with, and what brands to stick away from. I am also going to be getting new strut mounts and im sticking with genuine Nissan OEM parts for that. Just never done the ball joints and they are stock with 102k on the truck. Any help would be great!

Mine at the moment only rattles when I go into gear from a stop and im on the brakes....as soon as im off the brakes it goes away. I almost never hear it since Im always blaring music so its not that bad. If it gets worse, ill cut them off

Lol now thats creative!

You have to keep in mind that you cant bolt the flanges on the inside of the engine bay because the studs that come out of the factory struts are only so long and you have to bolt them into the actual body of the truck as well. It would be easier for those with a sfd cause the strut spacer bolts to the strut using the factory studs on the strut, then the top of the spacer could simply get longer grade 8 hardware allowing there to be more room to bolt something else like a tower brace on.

We need to have a SFD only pathy meet one of these days

It shall be interesting to see what happens with this

I would say changing a motor mount would be a very labor intensive job....cause in order to access them and pull them out the subframe has to be dropped....atleast thats the only way I can see doing it.

Wait what? Do you mean the shift lock?