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01silvapathy

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Everything posted by 01silvapathy

  1. Pretty much and as stated before a rubber gromet may help. My lights shake a bit but only at slow speeds like driving through a neighborhood....and it does not really bother me.
  2. Okay just got some pics...basically i took some of that metal and cut it in half....then bent a 90 degree angle on it and made kinda an l shape with it. Then I bolted the upwards part to the light bar, and used two more bolts back farther to bolt it to the roof rails. Pics show it better
  3. Which is why id only run around town with them, forget wheeling with em...I like my interior relatively clean lol
  4. Exactly what I did pretty much, except I took another piece of that steel and made a box out of it and hid all the wires inside for a cleaner look. I will try and take some pictures tomorrow of what I did to help with virations. But basically I took some more angled steel and bent it up at a 90* angle and bolted it to the light bar and then used two more bolts behind it to help snug things down....helps ALOT! I will try and get pics up between school and work. Rubber groments may help a bit, even just some rubber o rings for a hose may help. Also you NEED to change out to bolts. I took the tie down into lowes and got a fine threaded bolt to match and bolted it down to the rack. You can get it alot more snug with a ratchet then you can with the looped things.
  5. This is on my to do list, just something about cruising around in a 4dr with tube doors intrigues me! Though I would loose all my speakers but the tweeters in the a pillars Not a good idea to wheel with them though, might screw up some things with the unibody construction....I have to look into it more.
  6. No look on the second page of my build thread there are 10 pics of the light setup, a few of the rack and the rest of how to run the wires.
  7. Well the nice thing about my mount is that both my roof cross bars are still usable (I carry canoes/kyaks/ladders) And also the wiring would be very exposed and not very clean looking if you just drilled through the roof bars. Also the cross bars are not level they curve which may mess up the light pattern. And it would just look funny with the roof bar wayyyy up forward and the other way back. Just my opinion. There are pics and such starting on the second page of my build thread around post 29. Link to the thread was in offtourroadie's post.
  8. Do you consider trimming some plastic "modifying"? You should not have a problem
  9. Just got back from swapping a vg33 into a wd21 :D

    1. Show previous comments  2 more
    2. Phantom01Pathfinder

      Phantom01Pathfinder

      howd the swap go? post pics!!

    3. 01silvapathy

      01silvapathy

      They are on my facebook,look me up....Andrew Harris pic is me posing like a badass next to my tire with my stunner shades on.

    4. Phantom01Pathfinder

      Phantom01Pathfinder

      yah sorry dont have a facebook.

  10. The front cv is around 20, the actual front diff is around 80 or 90 if I had to guess....never actually picked it up but moved it around on a jack lol
  11. I changed over to mobile 1 full syn around 100k and liked the results. It is a bit more expensive but at the same time I think that the truck runs quieter and smoother. I also have confidence knowing that I can go over the change intervals by a little bit and not really have to worry about it...but I still try and change every 3500-4000 miles.
  12. Def going to need a deep cycle of some sort
  13. Apparently you did not get the jist of my pm when I asked you to contact kryton fabrications for your questions. Do a little research most of the answers are on this forum and have been covered.
  14. Start a new topic please, I dont want to further confuse this thread
  15. Exactly, which is why I have wheel spacers in the front only. I can post a pic tomorrow of the clearance I have between the tire and the strut....its not much. It also varies by tire...some have a wider sidebite area and the rim width also varies in how wide the actual tire will be. And yes, the higher the backspace is the closer in it will be...a 4.25 bs will be closer to the strut than a 3.75
  16. Yall need to check out and READ my how to on fitting 33's on the 2in lift. Even a 3.75 bs will rub the strut. The thread explains why and has pictures but should help to grasp the idea. http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=26398
  17. I run 1.5in wheel spacers from trail gear. Believe they were 84 dollars shipped to my door, have never had a problem with them.
  18. Maybe tire balance? I have a slight shake due to tire imbalance but it is by no means violent. And you can destroy a balljoint, check them for play even if they are relatively new.
  19. Yeah that sure is a logical statement. First you dont have a problem with it but then you do . How do you know his headlights are blinding people? I have mine aimed down just fine and have never been flashed or gotten a complaint.
  20. Nope, all he did was a 2in he was just asking me questions along the way lol. He posted above what he did for the lift in terms of parts....kyb gr2 struts, oem strut bearings and mounts, ac 2in lift coils, and pro comp es3000 shocks.
  21. Id be interested to see pics of what you did to the shocks.
  22. My rear got taken off and cut into pieces three years ago lol. I take off the front from time to time...its fun for awhile but I would not recommend it for a daily driver.
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