tekazgtr1984

Anyone know how to adjust the idle? I did a TB cleaning and now my idle's sitting higher than it should (~950rpm). I thought maybe the TB needed replacing but I think the temp. regulator cam spring just needs adjusting. That being said, I have no idea how to do that and before trying anything (and risking making matter worse), I'm wondering if anyone has done this before with any success. I took some shots up close of the two springs, to show how the hardware sits at cold temperature. When I start up the rig, the revs jump to about 1800rpm, then sits around 15-1600rpm until it warms up, at which point idle sits at ~950rpm. That's about 200+ compared to what I thought was normal idle (750rpm). Does this look right compared to your VG33E at cold temp.? I noticed that fin on the temp. reg. cam spring has two notches on it, which I assume indicated where the throttle pin should rest at cold and hot. I'm thinking adjustment can be made to the lower spring hardware but I won't try anything until I know more. In the meantime, I have to deal with this high idle and butchered gas mileage. Thanks for the help in advance!

Rubby Winnipeg doesn't have freeways so I can't really comment on that.

Agreed, that's gonna be solid (both literally and figuratively). Nice work. Be sure to post up pics as you progress. Badass indeed!

I think I may be able to adjust the spring and hopefully get everything in the right position for the correct idle. If I can avoid spending money, so be it.

Here are some pictures I just snapped: I) Corroded TB butterfly spring: apparently not causing an issue because the butterfly still functions as it should. II) Corroded temperature regulator cam spring: most likely the causing the high idle issue. Methinks it's time to find that fabled QD32ETI.

The rust isn't inside the TB, it's laid claim to the TB spring and temp. reg. cam spring. Those are both exposed to the elements and are readily visible when the hood's open. All I do know, it needs to get fixed. My idle's f*cked and my gas mileage has gone for a sh*t because of this ordeal. If I had known cleaning a TB would have caused this much grief, I wouldn't have done it in the first place!

I guess that's what happens when you give pathetic asshats $700 of disposable income and no education on how great a Pathfinder really is. Aside from the mindless destruction (ripping off doors, driving into poles, kicking in windows, etc.), that WD21 sure held its own. That jump into the mud was solid and it didn't get caught up even in the slightest. Seeing as how it was wheeling around with some pretty modified trucks, it did a good job! Kudos to the WD21 for being a tank and a pox on those douchebag teenagers who have nothing better to do with their useless existences. Advice to their fathers: next time, do us all a favour and wrap it up.

15x8 with 4" BS should do the trick. As for pricing, go with what's good for the wallet. The Cragar wheels will do nicely, IMO.

Right on! Happy to hear you're enjoying the ARBs! I can't wait to get 'em now that I've heard your testimony!

Lucky! Have you had a chance to try out the lockers?

My lungs? I made sure the area was well-ventilated. Aside from the crud which came out when I sprayed with TB cleaner, everything inside looked very clean and proper. My money's on those damn springs, especially the temp. reg. cam spring; that's one is just nasty corroded.

Just so everyone knows: this isn't in preferential order by any means. I just listed what came to mind.

Yeah, as indidcated on the can of SeaFoam. "Fumes will be extreme for a short period" or something to that effect. Therefore, it shouldn't come as a surprise.

Exactly. Read the directions on the can and you should have no problems.

Rock on party! Thanks for the info, Dean.

So, I didn't end up SeaFoaming the intake manifold as my idle problem was made apparent by my Nissan mechanic friend the other night. Rust has laid claim to another part of my vehicle, this time being the two springs contained within the throttle body hardware, one for the butterfly/TB cable spring, the other being the temperature regulator cam right below the TB spring. For the moment, I lubed the effin' crud out of both springs and with the help of a long flat-head screwdriver, I was able to move the temp. reg. cam back to the right position. The spring still sticks a bit, though; idle more or less sits around 1000rpm unless I use ol' flat-head on the spring. Needless to say, new TB hardware is required.

So I take it, based on this post, to use a whole can in one go for optimal results, ideally right before an oil change...?

1) Suspension upgrade: 2" OME coils, OME front struts, Bilsten 5100 rear shocks. 2) Rollers: Some nice wheels (size is your preference) and some beefy Toyo MT's. 3) Warn Manual Hubs 4) ARB air lockers and air compressor 5) Armor! The rest I'd say is up to you. Have at 'er!!

Not bad at all! If only OZ and Canada were not so far apart...

Came across these on a SFD'd R50 Terrano. I've seen a RHD Land Cruiser with the exact same wheels. Love 'em!

Damn right. Custom fabrication should never be ghetto... Especially for a subframe drop.

Yup, the bushing below the oil filter deteriorates quite rapidly once it comes in contact with motor oil. I have my replacement bushings ready, which I plan to get done as soon as I can. I sprayed the new ones with silicone spray which should help keep them protected from the elements and dirt. I did the same to my CV axle boots and they've held up quite well despite the salty, dirty winters here in Winnipeg. As for the R50 steering system, I agree with Dean completely. Although it's a rack/pinion system, it's quite durable and has faired well to what I've thrown at my truck off the pavement. The R50's front end is very much car influenced. All things considered, it's proven quite versatile (despite what some people might have you think).

Nah, I'll pass on the bankrupt muscle.

X2. QD32ETI is where the good stuff's at. Lots of nasty low-end torque and fuel efficient! I think the VG33E could've been way better but it is what it is. If only a VG33DE or DET had been made.

Thanks for the help, everyone! After checking everything, I'm certain it's just residue left in the TB/intake manifold. My Nissan mechanic friend said just drive it normally until the idle normalizes itself. To be honest, my TB was pretty nasty. I was quite liberal with TB cleaner and tons of black crud came out on the cloth when I wiped inside it. I'm going to SeaFoam the intake manifold tomorrow so I imagine that should help things.