Cuong Nguyen

I figure I could offset some costs when I part out the current truck. I wonder if the manual trucks are prewired for auto.

Well I have been plagued with problems. 1. Right frame is bent- can't mount rebuilt motor. 2. Torque converter and input shaft is misplined. 3. Transmission clutch packs broken 4. Body mounts/brackets bent and cracked. 5. Broken windshield Should I just pick up a parts truck and swap everything over or should I just fix what I got? I found a 94 with a blown head gasket with manual trans and I found an xterra trans also. The 94 is 800 dollars and the trans is 200 dollars.

First I've heard of a water pump failure. I've used a few different brands of water pump but never had one fail. Never had a Gates brand water pump though. You can replace the pump without remove the belt and tensioner if you want to save a few minutes but it's just better to take it off and get it out of the way so you don't get the stuff wet. Nothing special with coolant. I generally just use a 50/50 mix of the regular cheap stuff.

I have to resolve the frame issue first before I go any further. I have to weigh my options now. See if I can get the frame straightened. Run the transmission until it slips. Or find a clunker with straight frame and swap everything over.

covered any exposed holes on the motor with tape and latex gloves. The Pathfinder shall sit until I can work on her again...whenever that will be. No riding or 4wheel'n for over a year now...

I think I remember Steevo saying that his 4 link setup can retain the stock slip yoke for the rear drive shaft but he did not say the limitations of using it though. Maybe Steevo should put in a small run on SYE for his 4 link kits. As for a SYE, you can do what Nunya mentioned. Shouldn't be difficult with the exception to drilling the rear shaft for a bolt. You'll need to put the slip yoke on a lathe and mill it down square. I'm not sure how much meat the slip yoke has but you might need some metal on there and then just center the hole, transfer a 1310 yoke holes over and drill away.

I called a transmission shop and they said it's a possibility too. I also found a piece of clutch disc inside the shaft tunnel. .....and my passenger frame is tweaked inwards towards the centerline so the hole in the engine mounts don't line up. I'm about an inch off.

Yeah it seems so. I'm going to see if brute force can separate the two.

I was thinking we had the attachments option but guess not.

Yep, not repairable since it's a safety hazard. I went ahead and dropped the transmission/transfer case to get it out of the way to drop the engine in. Doing so, I found out that either my frame is tweaked or something is really wrong. The brackets line up on the frame for the most part but when I set the engine in I can get one side to bolt up but not the other. I guess the accident a long time ago really messed things up...

I did not purposely remove the input shaft for this install and if you really understood I CANNOT remove the stuck input shaft from the torque converter and put it in wrong. It probably wouldn't fit either if you switched the orientation.

Can someone point me to it because I'm not seeing it.

How can I display more topics? It appears I can only see back up until 2-3 months?

Yes it's in the right way. One end has an o ring and the other doesn't. Plus I never removed the input shaft to begin with.

The point of this thread was to see if I should have the engine fully assembled +/- a few things to quicken up the install process because I am doing this job alone. I live in an apartment complex which does not allow one to work on their vehicles in the open parking lot area. I have never had any problems removing engines and transmissions and reinstalling them in the past until now which I stated earlier that the input shaft is stuck in the TC and the shaft is not seating all the way in the transmission for some reason beyond my knowledge.

makes me wish I still kept my old 2wd transmission around...

Yeah no bushing. The input shaft is giving me problems. It's so weird since I have never had this problem.

No pilot bearing. Just the adapter.

For some reason the tc was not far back enough soviet pushed againsted the flex plate bending it. Pulled the tc out and the input shaft came out with it. Trying to free it up now which is a pain in the ass.

For the life of me I cannot get the torque converter to fit into the pilot hole on the flywheel/crankshaft.

I ended up towing the pathfinder home to my mother's to work on. My brother and I could not get the engine to line up with the transmission. What a pain. So tomorrow we are going to pull the engine and transmission out and install the two outside the truck and reinstall it as one piece. Hopefully no snags...

I think I figure out what I can do. My motor mounts are attached to the motor so I can't really lower the motor any lower. So what I can do is pivot them so I can lower the engine lower so it will line up. That way i won't have to have so much of an angle between the motor and bellhousing.

Man, I can't get the dang motor to line up with the transmission.

Tried to mate the transmission with the engine block by using longer bolts and large nuts as spacers to pull the two together. I think I ended up misaligning the input shaft with the pilot bushing. The flex plate looks like it's bent/flexing. I didn't think it was this hard to do.

pricey too