shift220

Good way to get run over!

Yea well if you remember from earlier, I messed up with my strut spacers and accidentally made them 4"... so I left them like that! Can't complain about the extra lift. But my stock brake lines did work so I should really write no higher then 4". They are extended about as much as I would ever want to see them. With everything bolted up, flexing the suspension etc won't over-extend them, BUT when working on the suspension (such as replacing a CV), it can be very easy to over-extend them. Longer ones provide that nice cushion and at the same time reduce the "cushion" that rubber ones have. I wouldn't say 100% necessary though.

I supplied imperial grade 8 fine thread bolts with my kits. You'll want 10.9 or higher for sure.

Honestly a hitch is the best/easiest way to mount something up. It distributes the stresses between both "frame" rails which is good when getting tugged. But here's what I did back when I first got mine... http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=18151&view=&hl=&fromsearch=1 Never actually had a chance to use them but I liked how low profile they were.

Yes I agree. The 9/16" bolts on the rear blocks should be torqued to 130 ft-lbs and the 7/16" on the front should be at 60 ft-lbs. The lock washers will keep them tight and blue lock-tight isn't a bad idea either. The blocks won't slip because they can't Depending on the air impact, a crappy one probably can't even get at 100 ft-lbs but some higher end ones can easily get up to 300+. I would suggest loosening the bolts and torquing them back to spec!

Yea but i'm saying the actual sensor might have gone bad. A voltmeter will tell you pretty quickly if it is working or not. The code for the IAC is probably because your throttle stop is not set properly and it's having trouble adjusting the idle air flow (out of range). Unfortunately you would probably need a computer to scan the ECM and see where the IAC is sitting (how much flow it lets through or not), then you use that to adjust the set screw. Since you have a "new" throttle body, just adjust the throttle blade on your stock one so it looks like the new one. Check the wiring and plugs for the sensors as well. Stuff like this should be cake for a dealer to diagnose.

So safe to say the SFD stayed in place? Sick pictures man! Keep em coming.

I would just make the new throttle body look like your old one and bolt it up! Any other differences should be fairly obvious. Sounds like the emission equipment might have changed between the years which is entirely possible. Now the issue of the throttle stop screw. Usually one sets it so the vehicle ideals fine and the IAC is within working range and can hold idle. Then by disconnecting the battery for a bit, the TPS (throttle position sensor) should reset within the computer so it knows where 0% throttle is. But now that I think about your symptoms, I would say your stock TP sensor wasn't working. Maybe try swapping those first and disconnect the battery for a bit?

Shouldn't be any driveline vibrations unless something is off. I just got rid of mine that only showed up with the truck in 4wd. The u-joints had no play but were binding and causing trouble. It had trouble switching out of 4wd as well (manual t-case) but now its instant again like it was when stock.

There is nothing dangerous about them if you use them properly. They're made of aluminum and bolt to your hub just like any rim. Neither of them should ever wear out or break. If you do slip on, keep it less then 1/2" thick. Bolt-on is probably a minimum of 1.25" thick and I've used up to 3" thick. Most importantly, make sure you have enough thread engagement with whatever you use.

Just a warning but everyone should be careful when buying wheel spacers off of Ebay. My good friend used some on his truck and soon found out that the stud was not seated completely in the spacer (his torque wrench showed correct torque). Not a structural issue as he used the spacer afterwards just fine but it is something to check. http://stores.ebay.com/CompleteValue-Wheel-Spacers is the best seller that I have personally bought from and I know many others that have. I think 1.25" might be the minimum spacer to be able to bolt on (at least from him). I have purchased 3 sets including a 3" wide set that have been flawless. Good pricing also.

Well right now my CV's are only out of original alignment equivalent by about 1/2" of lift. It was the driveshaft to the front axle that was causing the binding. And since the SFD, was seeing slightly more extreme angles when rotating. I did think it was the CV's at first considering it was a random shimmy but those both got replaced as one of the first things I did to track this down! But I will take the advice and invest in some manual hubs.. mostly needed because my gas mileage is sucking lately.

Pretty sure I found the problem, see original post for details!

If you can find a donor vehicle then that would be the best way to go. Otherwise all custom is better then trying to piece stuff together. But everything comes with a price and for a decent setup your going to be in the hole at least 3-4 grand. I would think with the lack of tuning software for our ECM's (at least that I know of), you would have to go with a aftermarket ECM as well. But if you were to do it on a strict budget here's what you could do: - Build your own manifolds, one crosses over to the other side and they meet up to the turbo. Usually it crosses over to the pass side due to the steering arm. - Run a MSD or like timing module to retard timing while in boost - Get a EIC (extra injector controller) and mount a couple large injectors on the intake piping to compensate for fueling Things like the battery would have be to relocated inside the vehicle (using a AGM battery) to make room. You would probably lose most of your emission equipment which would also free up room. I would recommend finding a way to mount up an intercooler but meth injection could be used in place. The only thing I don't know about these engines is how they respond to boost and how much they can hold.

So my big question is, why does everything from a VG30ET need to be bolted to the 33 instead of just the exhaust manifolds? Sure you need to change things like the fuel pump, fuel injectors, ECM, intake piping, MAP sensor, etc but why do they switch the oil pan and stuff? Also does it mention what they did for engine management aka tuning? I guess it wouldn't be needed if everything else was kept stock.

I would disagree with the spacer with longer studs being stronger then a bolt on spacer.. but for our purposes, both are very adequate methods of pushing out the wheels

Awesome. Happy to see one of my kits finally installed! So your up 4" plus 2" from springs in the front? Looks nice and high for sure.

Probably has more to do with the angle of the picture. Looks wicked man. I had a look through your FB pics, it's a very sweet rig and towers over all the others one you had out

That's the beauty of the SFD. You can eliminate all these problems! If you use the stock springs, no topping out and no bad angles with the CV axles. The problem with selling a kit like this is the high initial price. But compared to a lot of lift kits, the price is very good. Considering this stuff is all custom made too. I know it took me a lot of time to order/run around to get all the parts.

The brake lines I had made up were custom made to the length. From what I could tell with the DOT-approved vs non is that the DOT ones have a clear rubber sleeve around the line. The only purpose being for abrasion reasons I guess. Non-DOT lines will work fine.

Sorry about the confusion guys. The drawings I posted are for 3.5" tall blocks yes. If you are going with a 4" SFD, then the measurements will be different. I used 2x4 in the front and 3x4 in the back for the kits I made. Muddfildvaynes, how did the blocks fit your Pathfinder in the front? I took down the link because that file didn't fit perfect. Here is an updated CAD file. Here is the plan I used for the 4" rear blocks The front blocks are exactly the same as the 3.5" lift but only 2" wide with the holes centered. And the rear shocks are from a Ford Superduty

Wow well hopefully that is the cause and not the result. My stock ones started to round out because of the shacking. I bought some monroe replacements and they are at least twice as thick in that area.

I used an old chisel with a sharp edge and my big hammer!

Although I don't have any play like that in my steering linkage, I may replace the inner tie rod ends on mine as well. I'm going to at least pull back the boot and see if there is anything obvious.

My headlights were still stock bulbs when I got the Pathfinder a couple years ago. The stock lights still lit up but I couldn't see a thing on the road at night. Took out the bulbs and they were so black I couldn't see through the glass. Not sure what happened but new ones really made a difference haha.