shift220

A properly made SFD kit will not need camber bolts. So if he doesn't have them now, he shouldn't need them after.

To get to the driver's side engine block you need to drop the diff. You can leave the diff in the subframe, just drop it low enough to get at the engine block. The tolerances might be to large with Alex's kit or the hardware is bad. With my blocks there is no need to do any welding. I think muddfildvaynes proved this very well with his wheeling pictures

If I told you to be worried, would you do anything differently? Just hope that nothing fell down there, replace the oil and everything should be fine!

I'm actually working on a brace for the steering rack as we speak. I hope to have a "prototype" out very soon to try on my own. I believe it is because of the steering rack moving in the bushings. And with bigger tires, new bushings won't hold it in place (for me anyway!).

Nice! Looks like a great job with the parts and sick looking pathfinder! Awesome to see all these SFD'ed R50s in the works

I have to disagree. An electric fan will never pull as much air as the stock fan. The reason for swapping is usually only to free up otherwise wasted horsepower. You are probably correct in providing adequate cooling though, depending on the model.

I prefer the probe in the fin because it is isolated from the coolant system and easy to maintain. If you set the controller to turn on at 180 for example, that's what it will do. It doesn't matter the accuracy that the probe has because you don't set the controller at 180, you simply set the controller to turn on when your truck is at 180. The probe might actually read only 170. I personally used one for over two years in everywhere from -30 to +35 and it was always dead on. I wouldn't say it's very necessary to wire in the A/C (extra relay and wiring) but it does help with our small A/C systems. Usually the A/C condenser will heat up quick enough to activate the fans at lower speeds and at high speeds you don't need it running. You can always add in it later though. The nice thing with the Taurus fan is that it is already shrouded and is more then enough for the 3.3L with A/C. But I now run the flex-a-lite syclone fan in my Sonoma (turbocharged 4.3 with A/C) due to space restrictions and it has been very good as well. My buddy has the Taurus one in his Blazer now.

Cheapest route is the Ford Taurus fan with a thermostat switch. Should be between $50-60 all said and done. A new fan alone will set you back much further.

I posted in the services forum that I can get custom lines made but I don't think many people look in there.. If a few people want to order lines we can always get a group buy going? I can't remember the stock rear line length but I think it was something like 18". The ones I got made up for my kits were 26" But to answer the original poster, I did the same thing with zip ties to hold the lines on the strut.

No, the sensor is feed a constant 5v and outputs between 0-5 depending on the airflow going through the sensor. This is why I mention the tunes being off because the at the same voltage, different amounts of air are flowing past the sensors. So the ECM is not getting the correct airflow reading if you use a different MAF with the ECM.

Is this idling with the VG30 and the VG33 respectively? Or both MAF's on your same engine?

It's on my list to do. I was thinking Titan would be a good candidate but parts are hard to come by around here. Now i'm thinking 1/2 ton Chevy rear discs and some custom made brackets

Well it doesn't know that the displacement is different but it does see the difference in air coming into the engine by the MAF. The reason why I say it can be off is calibrations on the MAF's. If the MAF on the 33 is much bigger then the 30 then most likely the calibrations will be different between the two. But if the AFR's are good and it's not detonating then nothing to worry about!

I'm not sure about the extent of your modifications but I read that you are using the VG30 ECM to run the 33. Once you start changing the combination on the motor and especially when switching engine sizes without changing ECM's, your tune is going to be way out of wack. Chances are you are going to see less power, mileage and reliability. If the MAF's are different, then so are the tunes within the ECM's. With the lack of tuning available for these computers, I would recommend keeping everything consistent with the ECM's for the best combination.

Good way to get run over!

Yea well if you remember from earlier, I messed up with my strut spacers and accidentally made them 4"... so I left them like that! Can't complain about the extra lift. But my stock brake lines did work so I should really write no higher then 4". They are extended about as much as I would ever want to see them. With everything bolted up, flexing the suspension etc won't over-extend them, BUT when working on the suspension (such as replacing a CV), it can be very easy to over-extend them. Longer ones provide that nice cushion and at the same time reduce the "cushion" that rubber ones have. I wouldn't say 100% necessary though.

I supplied imperial grade 8 fine thread bolts with my kits. You'll want 10.9 or higher for sure.

Honestly a hitch is the best/easiest way to mount something up. It distributes the stresses between both "frame" rails which is good when getting tugged. But here's what I did back when I first got mine... http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=18151&view=&hl=&fromsearch=1 Never actually had a chance to use them but I liked how low profile they were.

Yes I agree. The 9/16" bolts on the rear blocks should be torqued to 130 ft-lbs and the 7/16" on the front should be at 60 ft-lbs. The lock washers will keep them tight and blue lock-tight isn't a bad idea either. The blocks won't slip because they can't Depending on the air impact, a crappy one probably can't even get at 100 ft-lbs but some higher end ones can easily get up to 300+. I would suggest loosening the bolts and torquing them back to spec!

Yea but i'm saying the actual sensor might have gone bad. A voltmeter will tell you pretty quickly if it is working or not. The code for the IAC is probably because your throttle stop is not set properly and it's having trouble adjusting the idle air flow (out of range). Unfortunately you would probably need a computer to scan the ECM and see where the IAC is sitting (how much flow it lets through or not), then you use that to adjust the set screw. Since you have a "new" throttle body, just adjust the throttle blade on your stock one so it looks like the new one. Check the wiring and plugs for the sensors as well. Stuff like this should be cake for a dealer to diagnose.

So safe to say the SFD stayed in place? Sick pictures man! Keep em coming.

I would just make the new throttle body look like your old one and bolt it up! Any other differences should be fairly obvious. Sounds like the emission equipment might have changed between the years which is entirely possible. Now the issue of the throttle stop screw. Usually one sets it so the vehicle ideals fine and the IAC is within working range and can hold idle. Then by disconnecting the battery for a bit, the TPS (throttle position sensor) should reset within the computer so it knows where 0% throttle is. But now that I think about your symptoms, I would say your stock TP sensor wasn't working. Maybe try swapping those first and disconnect the battery for a bit?

Shouldn't be any driveline vibrations unless something is off. I just got rid of mine that only showed up with the truck in 4wd. The u-joints had no play but were binding and causing trouble. It had trouble switching out of 4wd as well (manual t-case) but now its instant again like it was when stock.