shift220

Yup I remember reaching in behind that plastic inner fender as well. It can be a little tricky to get everything setup correctly. And my eBay replacement one had a pretty short lift as well (~2 years). It's stuck about half way up and probably going to stay there.

After lifting your truck, all you need to do is aim the headlights down slightly and you'll be the same as stock. It takes about 1 minute to aim them down. HID bulbs tend to blind people because the "brighter" light is scattered through the lens. I'm not a big fan because I get blinded by all the Silverados and Civics that put them in around here. Otherwise I wouldn't really care. Some headlights are worse then others and maybe aiming them down further helps quite a bit. And while not exactly the same, my friend bought luminatic bulbs (halogen) and now both his hi and low beam suck. In fact, he can see less with his high beams then low. This is mostly because the colour is different (cool white or something?). Proof that stock is usually the best. But maybe I'm just spoiled

Looks really nice! Good job

There was nothing unsafe about welding a spacer into the stock linkage. The stock linkage is welded in many places from the factory. As long as it was done correctly there will not be any problems. You have to understand that the linkage that was modified was before the power-assist and therefore only felt what you could twist into the steering wheel. There are many advantages for this new linkage though: decreased linkage angles, super easy install and the "trick" look I'm expecting our order to be here in about a week or so and then we can figure out the "sell-alone" price.

I was going to do this with the Princess Auto window washer kit a while back but they were sold out. Might be the easiest way. I would check that out first.

The one thing you didn't mention was the radiator cap. Might be a good idea to check it out, especially if you have an eBay one on there. I don't suspect there is anything on the waterpump that will wear and decrease performance a significant amount. They might a slight bit but then usually will go out soon after. If your not getting heat its either a thermostat problem or a clogged heater core / line. If the truck doesn't overheat, I wouldn't be to concerned.

Still driving around on it. I'm trying to put it through it's paces and see if anything comes up. Are you bending rods or killing the actual joint? Something could be done with the rod to beef it up if needed... The bracket I used for the stabilizer currently bolts (u-bolts) onto the rod. If I feel the mounting is solid enough then I will consider selling kits. Yup, the installation is very easy and nothing needs to be modified. The only issue I have now is that the tierod moves around (rotates) because of the play in the tierod end on the knuckle. I won't go into to much detail but if you grab into your tierod and try to twist it, you'll see what I mean.

The picture is a bad angle to show the clearance but there's about 1.5" above and below the shock. It doesn't make contact under normal driving. I haven't tested it under "extreme" conditions but I will soon. Yes, with the larger tires, the feedback was very annoying. This was more of a sneak peak more then anything. I still have a bit of work to do on it.

It's something I've been working on for quite a while and went through quite a few "prototype" mountings before I did this one. The bracket is very rough (and already rusty after one day road testing) but it gives you the idea. I also wanted to make it an easy install (I would say roughly 15-20 min from stock). The result: So far the results are great! No more bouncy steering wheel over bumps. I tried it on some very rough alleyways (snow, ice and ruts) and I had way less feedback then before. This should take a lot of the load off the rack and other components as well. You can also see my steering rack "brace" tucked behind the power steering line bracket. It basically clamps around the rack and holds it in place (no more worries about bushings). I'm still going to run it for a while (and beat on it offroad) to see if any issues arise. So far it doesn't make contact with anything. I was also worried that it would cause feedback due to it mounting to the tierod but I didn't notice anything under normal driving.

Nope, they turn off when the highbeams come on. I think the lense gives it a slightly blue tint on the ground. I thought about dual lights but it doesn't seem necessary for these. It's to bad these aren't more readily available, they are a huge upgrade over stock!

Are you looking at fuel pressure while the engine is running? I would have done the fuel filter as one of the first things. Also check for a clogged cat.

Yup. I tried to use the DRL circuit to activate the relay but it wouldn't work. For some reason the voltage is slightly lower through that circuit (compared to any other one @ ~14.1v) and it doesn't seem to be a clean DC. The relay would cycle really quickly when I activated the DRLs. I'm guessing the DRL module senses the load and can change the voltage (for example if one bulb burns out?) Anyway, I used the +12v highbeam wire that is activated for the DRL to flip the city light relay. As a consequence, the city lights also come on when the highbeams are activated. No biggie for me.

Yup she needs a wash for sure. It's tough to get a good picture to give these headlights justice. The HID light output is incredible to say the least. This is with the flash on and more realistically.. ^^ looks really sick with only the city lights on. The little bulbs light up the housing but nothing else. It looks like a pair of cat eyes in the dark. HID Lowbeams: (no flash) Highbeams:

continuing with the install.. I used three relays to trigger each set of lights: city lights, HID (lowbeam) and halogen (highbeam). I ran 18 gauge to the city lights and 12 gauge to the other two. New grounds were supplied as well. you can see the wiring gets pretty messy when your dealing with this many wires sockets wired in... ...and loomed up for a clean install Only so much I could do here with the wiring. It is tucked away in a safe place. ..and the finished product! Best pic I could get in the garage. I'll get some nighttime shots tonight.

That would be great if you could let me know. Then I could at least run wires for an easier install later. I did some research and it figured it was similar to others using resistance. I do have the plugs and wires (6-pin plugs). Thanks!

They are currently setup like this: DRL: City Lights Low Beam: HID High Beam: Halogens + City Lights I will explain the high beams when I finish up the install and put up pics (hopefully tonight, maybe tomorrow morning!) I won't have the auto-leveling working just yet. I might try to figure it out in the summer when I can give it some down time.

Passenger side On to the wiring next. I decided to use the old wiring to trigger relays and ran some thicker gauge wire for the HID's and highbeam Halogens. More pics tomorrow!

I was the lucky guy to get these headlights from tekazgtr1984. I got them in on Wednesday and had them fitted in a couple hours. Did 80% of the wiring today (only clean up / wire loom left!). Should be able to finish them up in the next day or two. On to the pictures.. First thing I noticed was how much larger these units were. The ballast, igniter and leveler motor are all mounted on the back of the headlight. Hmm... So the first step was to get the old headlights out. This requires removing the grille. Five little plastic clips are removed using a flat-head. Four are located in a rectangle within the grille opening. The fifth is tucked away behind the nissan emblem right in the middle. After you remove the side markers, there is a 10mm bolt on either side The headlight is held in with four 10mm nuts. One of which is conveniently located behind the window washer fluid container and radiator overflow. Here is a picture comparing the old halogen headlight to the new JDM. ...something doesn't look like it'll fit... ...oh, now it will

It's hard to judge what was done behind the winch, but most likely it is for looks. A couple hundred pounds could buckle those supports.

The 3" coils did yup. I am stock in front. Cutting coils with a zip-disc or plasma is fine. Your only affecting the very end of a coil. Heating the coil is a big no-no, I agree there. You are changing the metal properties in the middle of the coil where it actually does work.

Also, Ironrocks Offroad charged me about $60 to ship the WJ springs to Canada and it was here in a couple days.

You can use WJ lift springs and cut them down until you sit at the height you would like with the 600 lbs. The more you cut them, the lower and stiffer they will sit. But with that weight, you may not need to cut them down very much. You can use a bolt on adapter as well R50 Lift Accessories

I highly doubt the block is cracked. Either some crud in the connection or the crimped fitting is leaking out the bottom (which in that case I would throw the line out and get your money back). If you need one let me know. I have two sitting ready to go but I will only be around til the 22nd. Could throw it into a padded envelope and ship it fairly quickly.

I would expect between 4"-4.5" of lift with the WJ 3" coils. You can always cut them down a little more to get the truck lower. They aren't to stiff either. I prefer the ride over the stock coils.