shift220

Some S10's are rated to tow only 2000 lbs. Mine on the other hand is rated to tow 5800 lbs. Not that unusual to differ between models We have some new 2500 Dodge Rams at work and I'm not to fond of the ride. The SFA leaves a lot to be desired, but for a work truck they have their place. We also have some 3/4 ton Chevys which ride a lot better. Some have had their problems and some are over 300,000km with just regular maintenance. Luck of the draw I suppose.

Yea the 4" SFD will give you exactly 4" in the front. So what I would do is measure the rear stock fender height, compare it to the front and figure out how much lift you would need in the back to make them even. Then I can send you some WJ adapters and its an easy install!

Here's a couple of my sisters cat. Pretty crazy little dude

Running it with a single bolt missing won't give you any trouble structurally. There is still plenty of capacity there. I've had good luck with those reverse thread tapered bolt removers. If you do have enough bolt sticking out, welding another bolt or nut on the end will generally work the best.

That was my drawing but it is slightly incorrect. The holes should be 9/16" on the left side (top and bottom) and the upper right one should be (1/2"). Not sure if it will work for the WD's. R50 Panhard Drop Bracket I can make this any drop height you would like and it also comes powder coated

I do have a few flanges left if you are interested. I had a look at making a brace and decided not to pursue it. There just isn't a good way to design one simple enough. I would imagine the newer R50's would require a completely different one as mentioned before.

Blowing air at 100 psi onto a hot surface isn't even remotely close to air flowing through a hot engine. I know exactly what air does through an engine as I watch it on my laptop when I'm tuning one. The main factor in determining the temperature of the air is the temperature when it enters the filter. An increase in efficiency will increase power and MPG. Power and MPG are otherwise not related. Simple as that!

I've seen these things come and go for many engines. Increasing plenum volume, runner length, etc. There's a reason why they never catch on. First problem is the claim of a drop of 40f for temperatures. This unfortunately doesn't mean much since is the temperature of the manifold and not the actual air temperature change. And considering how fast air travels though the manifold, the drop in temperature of the manifold probably wouldn't do much for the IAT. Second, increasing the volume may increase low end torque but at the same time reduce upper end power. Nissan isn't blind to these things. So while you might see some all-around results on the dyno, in reality while street driving and heat-soak is not so prominent, there probably won't be much of a difference.

I would email Iron Rocks Offroad, they can probably give you that information. When I talked to him, he only mentioned the WJ and TJ having coil dimensions close to ours. 3" WJ lift coils give us about 4" of lift, so stock WJ coils would give you around 1" of lift.

The transformation is just wicked. Good to see more pics popping up

Saw these pics on FB.. crappy to say the least. Looks like the damage is isolated mainly to the doors like you mentioned. For something 12 years old I guess you never know what they will decide. Goodluck on whatever happens in the end!

Having one side "tighter" then the other could be the problem. It sounds like the axle might be shifting forward and back on one side (older links) and causing it to steer the vehicle. It would be the same idea of replacing a worn out shock or tire on one side only causing things to be uneven. I would jack it up in the air and pry on the axle to find the cause.

Is your caster to positive? Might have something to do with the front end being 5" higher then the rear

Also, you can use two camber bolts per side to get double the adjustment. To tell if you put the strut spacers in the correct orientation, the bottom flange should be behind and inward of the top flange. So for example looking at the passenger spacer from below: The bottom flange should be offset towards the driver's seat. Hopefully this makes sense somewhat.

Andrew, The strut spacers are angled but the top and bottom flanges are parallel to each other. If you set them on the floor, then top should read level. The flange will be offset. I posted this pic up earlier in the topic Then the flanges must be aligned properly with the tube so the strut mounts in the proper place. It can get quite confusing, especially since the driver and passenger sides are mirrored

No, the hub bore is to small on stock Titan rims. Be sure to check that also. You need a 100 mm min

It really depends on the shock type (monotube vs twin). The good news is that F350 shocks mount with the big bolt up (just like our pathfinders).

Yup, that is the way to go. First get some wire that is as thick or thicker then the stock wiring. Now cut the wire back about 4" from the sensor and strip the cut ends back about 1/2". Mount the sensor where you can in the tubing. Then cut your new wire to length, strip the end and solder/tape (or shrink wrap is even better) the connections. Make sure you connect the same colour wires together also!

I like the tubing idea with getting fresh air for that filter. I would mount that IAT sensor inline with the piping after the filter though. I understand your logic and it makes sense but there's just to much variability mounting it in free air. For instance on a hot day, that sensor will get heat soaked from the engine bay and give a bad reading. In the pipe, air moving past will keep it more accurate. Also, if it gets dirty or even dusty, the reading will be off. Not that it will have extreme effects on your engine, it just really isn't ideal. Keep up the mods though

Your just down the trail from me... I'll keep an eye out for you, but I'll warn you, if you see my R50 with the SFD, you might get the bug

Using hardlines in place of flexible is generally not recommended

I have a 3 ton aluminum jack. I can't remember the full lift height but I can lift it using the subframe crossmember and get both wheels off the ground no problem. With the rear, I usually use the axle for removing the tires.

The fact that you asking for the "specs" on the Jackson Autosport brace is the problem. You are copying what they made and trying to undersell them. Design your own and see how it fares. Honestly if you are somehow going to make these for less then $40 CAD, then you are skimping on something. That is a very fair, competitive price to begin with.

A rear hitch would act as a crossmember and stiffen up the rear end. Although it didn't help me since I couldn't close my rear hatch when flexed out. The triangular brace looks like the best design to stiffen up the body, although i'm sure a normal cross brace would work well also. We might be in luck, I have about 40 laser-cut strut flanges sitting on my work bench. I'm sure I can spare two for some R&D.

Yes you can do just springs. Most people replace the struts at the same time because it's the same amount of work either way (not because it's required).