shift220

The drain on the left side is normal, just a air/water vent I guess. The other big item is the evap canister. It basically stops the fumes from the gasoline evaporating from entering the atmosphere. The system will purge the container at certain times and burn the fumes through the engine. I don't really know if it should be hanging like that, I have a 96.

Well we can put it this way... Braking sucks with stock tire size and braking sucks with larger tires. So there really isn't a difference.

There isn't a set tire size where the brakes are going to stop working. They will just get progressively worse as the tire size increases. 32's are ok with mine but by no means can it stop quick

The relay will have the same effect as pulling the fuse. The actual fuse might be combined with another electrical system. As for the lines, sometimes you need to somehow get a flat head in there and pry up a corner. I don't remember how long those rubber lines are but you could always cut them off and replace them. Either way, just be ready to eat some gas.

Cool Looks like a great way to reinforce after a SFD as well.

Well years doesn't matter, its how many miles and how you brake on a regular basis. Most times I've heard drum brakes lasting into the 200,000 mile range without service. Slotted rotors can be turned. Anything can be. Most automotive places will not though.

Because high performance vehicles are made to brake from 160+ mph where cross drilling and slots will make a significant difference. Under normal driving, these aren't needed and generally won't make a big difference in braking. Most of the time when switching to new brakes, people are replacing old, glazed over pads and rotors so the braking will feel much stronger to begin with. You won't see slotted or drilled rotors on big 3/4 ton trucks and there's a reason for that. This is the type of braking system we need, not performance car.

I only mention the static holding power because take for example you are on a steep incline holding the brakes. The drums are less likely to slip. Two things stop larger rear brakes from locking up. ABS and a proportioning valve. The ABS most of us have already but you can always put a proportioning valve inline that is very easy and quick to adjust. Better to have rear brakes that can lock up then ones that can't. I would love to use Titan brakes and keep it Nissan, but any wrecker around here says "nope" as soon I say the word Titan. There is little to nothing on eBay either.

Putting on disc brakes from something other (and bigger) then a WD21 will make a huge difference in braking. The R50 has a nearly 50/50 split in weight distribution and with a trailer behind, the back brakes are a significant part in braking. The differences aren't merely cosmetic as you will experience less brake fade and more consistent braking at any speed. You'll notice a big increase in braking distance with a trailer behind but it will be reduced quite a bit with a disc swap. The reason car manufacturers put drums on vehicles is because of the toughness of the whole system. Everything is hidden from the elements and brake pads usually last 3x the amount of the front. They also have more static holding power (e-brake). I still plan on switching mine out and I'll probably adapt something from a Silverado because parts are readily available.

Get rid of the stock fan and put a efan on!

It probably wouldn't make to much of a difference between cutting them off or leaving them. The spring is pretty much flat at that location. I would go for the 4" WJ lift coils for 5" of lift on the pathfinder.

I would say it is limited by the capacity of the transmission. Generally autos have a higher tow rating, probably because of the torque converter. I wouldn't tow more then 2000 lbs anyway, that's scary enough already with stock brakes

The WJ 3" lift coils netted me about 4" of lift in the back. They make 4" lift and 6.5" lift coils as well. So with the 4" you could get roughly 5" of lift (probably more) and fine adjust from there with the isolators / spring seats. $150 for the 3" lift coils and after I ordered them Thursday night, they were here (in Canada) Monday morning via DHL.

First of all, I have to thank Jason over at Iron Rock Offroad for his help in this project. He was kind enough to open up boxes and measure up springs for me. The springs of choice for me were the 3" WJ lift coils. WJ 3" coils spring specs: 4 5/8" I.D. approx. 6" O.D. approx. 15 1/4" free length if you cut off the pigtail Spring rate: 175 lbs/inch Here is how they compare to the stock springs You can see the little pigtails that the springs have. What I did was cut off both ends and ended up with a spring with the 4 5/8" ID. This worked perfect on the top where the spring sits in the body. I was even able to use the rubber isolator. Now on the bottom, the spring seat is to wide to fit inside the WJ coil. It did slip over with the weight on the wheels but you would hear a "boung" sound when going over bumps. Also, it sat 1.5" low compared to the front. So to fix this, I made some simple adapters and welded them to the stock perch. This resulted in a perfectly level Pathfinder with the 4" SFD on the front. If I were to do it again, I would cut the pigtail off the top but leave the one on the bottom. This way, all I would need to do is weld a short piece of 3" pipe on the stock perch and the spring would sit right on there. So there we have it, no more need for $300 custom springs. I consider the ride better then stock with the new spring rate as well.

The leak is most likely the reason your A/C is not as cold as it should be. I wouldn't call that a little leak either. I would replace the line. The refrigerant will escape (probably did already) and will need to be recharged properly by a shop. Most places should be able to do this. Also, don't use "stop-leak" tape, it won't work.

Reminds me of when I pulled out the stock radio in my 96. On the back it said "Manufactured by Ford Motor Co.".

The coils in the front are much much stiffer then the ones in the back. I don't think they'll work very well. What we need is a coil from a heavy 4x4 with coil springs in the back. Something like an old Isuzu Trooper.

To anyone that did get springs made from that company in the U.S., are you able to post up some specs about them? Wire diameters, free height, etc? Either way I go, this local company might be much cheaper for those who want springs made up.

Unfortunately designing lift coils isn't the easiest task! Keeping a lower spring rate and getting the lift is difficult when you combine practicabilities of the design of the spring itself. For example, having 6-7 active coils over a 18" spring is almost impossible to manufacture. I got a quote from a local spring shop of about $130/spring for one using stock thickness of wire (which he considered a large wire??). Then you take into account that these are only calculations and the actual spring may be slightly different depending on who makes it and how much my stock springs have sagged and lots of other stuff! I'll keep everyone updated on what I do. I do have another idea that would be a little out of the box and perhaps cheaper (so not coilovers )

RedPath88, first of all, thank you for taking into consideration the concerns of me and the other members. I only mention locking the thread as I consider it common practice so something doesn't get out of hand and is dealed with in a controlled and appropriate manner. Having not knowing the history behind the original poster, I considered this an option. Unfortunately it was posted in the main forum on NPORA and that got the attention of many of us. I would like to see this thread take a flip in the other direction and i'm all for it posted on the main NPORA website page

I completely understand and agree, this forum is smaller and more family like. Everyone helps each other out without much negativity and judgment. Besides the first post being very personal and unrelated to the majority of people here (not to mention very inappropriate). This thread seems like matters involving a few individual people, but the original post was aimed as an attack on the NPORA forum community as a whole. And being in the main forum for everyone to see, reflects badly on us all. And don't get me wrong, I fully support NPORA supporting those in need. The original post was hardly a request for that though.

I agree to this being a Nissan Pathfinder forum. Why this post wasn't locked or at least moved into the Dispute Resolution forum is beyond me. At least in that forum you can control who can reply and I don't have to see it in the main forum with everything else. Come on admin..

+ inverted flare

All fittings are 10x1.0mm female and 10mm banjo

I don't think there is a stiffer spring made that won't increase the ride height of your Pathfinder. Air bags are a very good option for keeping trucks level under a load, but IMO overkill for just 200 lbs of tools. But the air bags are cheap and like you found out, you can just use a tire valve with them. Price wise, probably very close in the end, so I would go for the adjustability of the air bags.