shift220

My Pathfinder has been stock for to long and i'm looking for some solid information on the infamous subframe drop. I have collected some pictures and very little information on the actual drop. Here is what I understand is needed: - 4 blocks total to drop the subframe itself. The height of the blocks has been discussed in another thread and the limiting factor seems to be steering. I would have to investigate this personally to see how the steering shaft could possibly be modified. Any insight and/or pictures would be great - 2 blocks to raise the engine back to stock height for obvious reasons. Anybody have some close up pics of the engine mounts? Are they square with the frame or angled? Now what i'm not clear on is how the struts/mounts are changed. It would make sense that if you drop the subframe 4" that you would also have to drop the strut 4" (or drop it 3" and put in a 1" lift spring?). Any other little items that interfere with the drop? Disclaimer: I'm trying to collect as much info as possible so there aren't any surprises for me. My Pathfinder is my winter DD so it can't be out for long! And yes I do have the resources available to recreate kits should I choose to do so...

Any clearer pictures? The fabrication doesn't look to clean from that picture..

My R50 does this as well. Its pretty normal when you hit the right kind of bump. Its just due to the solid rear axle. Its even worse with my Sonoma (no weight on the back).

I would do just like you said and adjust until they are snug. The parking brake should not need to be adjusted after that. Usually drum brakes are self-adjusting in where they tighten up when you brake hard in reverse but i'm not 100% sure on these trucks.

Yea that sounds like the nature of the beast. Definitely not much on the low-end for torque but the gears make up for it.

That's definitely not the one I picked up so I can't say for sure if it is a dual speed or not. The common ones don't have that cutout on them. Also, $40 US is a rip-off for a fan like that. I picked one up at a local junkyard for $15 CND bucks and I knew it was dual speed when I bought it. I bought a flex-a-lite controller that came with everything I needed to run the fan.

First of all, the 4L60E isn't a POS and can't be compared to the 4L80E since they are two very different animals. The 4L60E has overdrive just like the 4L80E, the 80 is just a lot bigger in size and is rated for more torque. It is meant for heavier/higher horsepower trucks. It does sound like a problem with the computer. I'm not sure with 93's but on newer trucks the ECM controls the transmission. I'd look into replacing that first if it isn't throwing any codes.

Personally, I would just clamp it on if the rest of the exhaust is ok. I don't think it would be worth it to get it welded to the stock exhaust.

Ok since you are having structural problems, your only safe, foolproof option is welding in a new peice of sheet metal. Any peice of sheet metal will work. Cut one from an old car or whereever. It should be as thick or thicker then original. As for welding goes, you can't use an oxy-ace torch to weld in it. They do make MIG welders that are 110v. This is your best bet. See if you can rent one of these. If it were me, I would cut out the rust with nice straight lines and then cut the filler sheet to fit flush. You don't have to this so in your case I would make it overlap a 1/4" around each edge. There's are some more details involved but if your going to get it professionally done then that's a good idea also

Mufflers range between size, sound level and composition. If you want one that will last forever but costs more initially then get a stainless steel one. A retailer should be able to help you pick one out that's fairly close to stock if you want. Having two cats is not uncommon the least bit. Never looked into the reason for having a pre-cat so I couldn't tell you why. If it were me, I would get rid of the precat and put in a new "main" cat. As for plug wires.. just don't cheap out

Definitely post up some pics with the install! BTW, AN fittings do not need teflon tape. Just install them how they are. They seal on the flare/seat.

How big are those roughly? I have to disagree on the price also. Considering that 1" aluminum carb spacers are about $20 bucks (with hardware and a couple gaskets) and seem to be around the same size. Mass production aside, that's 10x the price. Not saying that Mike here is trying to rip people off, I just don't think you get what you pay for. I guess thats what you get with supply and demand and the fact that these are probably being made in Canada

Does anyone have a picture of what these spacers look like?

I realize that Nissan did have a diesel engine in these vehicles but is it available in North America? I didn't think the terrano's were. I don't see many Nissan commercial trucks running around either. Just curious how feasible the swap is

What does it take to get your hands on a turbo diesel that will fit? The only one I can think of is a Cummins 4 cylinder but those are heavy. And the truth about the TB spacer is that it doesn't work. If it did, people would be actually using them. Simple as that. Yes it may change airflow into the cylinders but the computer not being able to compensate has nothing to do with the fuel injectors. The computer is not tuned for the different airflow characteristics and it may run lean or rich depending. Larger injectors will only mess up the tune worse. On a TBI engine it might help because of it being after the injectors (similar to using a spacer with a carb). Efans on the other hand I support. Its night and day with that heavy stock fan off the front of the engine. But I'm leaving mine just for the reliability. I put a Efan on my Sonoma because the stock computer could control it.

If you don't have flex then you need a locker. If you don't have a locker then you need flex. Why? Because with an open diff, the wheel in the air will spin and you will go nowhere. I'd rate a locker more important then flex though.

To stay or go back to stock height your best bet is probably new OEM springs. New shocks in the back will definitely help with the bottoming out.

I definitely wouldn't put them on anything lighter then this color. Here's a pic with a 33" tire on the exact rim. so their not 22" rims with rubber bands incase anyone was thinking that

I asked the person to measure the center bore. From what I read we need a 100mm bore? And up here in Edmonton, AB, i've only seen maybe one or two other fullsize trucks with the same type rims. And since they're only 17", there's still room for a beefy tire.

Anybody seen these type of rims on a R50 Pathfinder? I found a good deal on some used 17's 8 inch wide with a 20mm offset... will that fit ok? From what I can tell it will be Thanks!

I haven't confirmed this myself but I believe it is for a load-sensing brake proportioning valve. Basically, the greater the load on your rear axle, the more brake bias towards the rear brakes.

The fact that your vehicle is stopping faster after you manually slam your automatic transmission into first gear simply shows us that your back brakes are in either need of a tune up or just plain underpowered. No it doesn't hurt the engine and yes its hard as hell on the tranny. You should never downshift your automatic when your under a load like that. Why people are arguing about engine braking in general I don't understand? He's talking about slamming it into 1st gear to panic stop, not coasting down a mountain

I would go with 2.5" for the whole exhaust system. 3" max after the muffler. Anything bigger would just look silly and offer no performance increases. Infact I would run 2.5" for everything. Anything bigger is for looks

It doesn't matter how thick the frame is, your putting a load on the frame that it was never designed for. But as far as the mounting plates go, i'm more concerned about the short legs ripping off the mounting plates. I was only asking because the mounting plates looked quite thin in the pictures. It should be good with the 3/16" metal and hopefully you never slam the entire weight of the truck on one side. I do like the crossing leg design though

Not revving past 4k RPM's sounds like the cat and might explain why it is dieing at lights also. Driving it through the river might have done something to it causing it to plug up