shift220

What does it take to get your hands on a turbo diesel that will fit? The only one I can think of is a Cummins 4 cylinder but those are heavy. And the truth about the TB spacer is that it doesn't work. If it did, people would be actually using them. Simple as that. Yes it may change airflow into the cylinders but the computer not being able to compensate has nothing to do with the fuel injectors. The computer is not tuned for the different airflow characteristics and it may run lean or rich depending. Larger injectors will only mess up the tune worse. On a TBI engine it might help because of it being after the injectors (similar to using a spacer with a carb). Efans on the other hand I support. Its night and day with that heavy stock fan off the front of the engine. But I'm leaving mine just for the reliability. I put a Efan on my Sonoma because the stock computer could control it.

If you don't have flex then you need a locker. If you don't have a locker then you need flex. Why? Because with an open diff, the wheel in the air will spin and you will go nowhere. I'd rate a locker more important then flex though.

To stay or go back to stock height your best bet is probably new OEM springs. New shocks in the back will definitely help with the bottoming out.

I definitely wouldn't put them on anything lighter then this color. Here's a pic with a 33" tire on the exact rim. so their not 22" rims with rubber bands incase anyone was thinking that

I asked the person to measure the center bore. From what I read we need a 100mm bore? And up here in Edmonton, AB, i've only seen maybe one or two other fullsize trucks with the same type rims. And since they're only 17", there's still room for a beefy tire.

Anybody seen these type of rims on a R50 Pathfinder? I found a good deal on some used 17's 8 inch wide with a 20mm offset... will that fit ok? From what I can tell it will be Thanks!

I haven't confirmed this myself but I believe it is for a load-sensing brake proportioning valve. Basically, the greater the load on your rear axle, the more brake bias towards the rear brakes.

The fact that your vehicle is stopping faster after you manually slam your automatic transmission into first gear simply shows us that your back brakes are in either need of a tune up or just plain underpowered. No it doesn't hurt the engine and yes its hard as hell on the tranny. You should never downshift your automatic when your under a load like that. Why people are arguing about engine braking in general I don't understand? He's talking about slamming it into 1st gear to panic stop, not coasting down a mountain

I would go with 2.5" for the whole exhaust system. 3" max after the muffler. Anything bigger would just look silly and offer no performance increases. Infact I would run 2.5" for everything. Anything bigger is for looks

It doesn't matter how thick the frame is, your putting a load on the frame that it was never designed for. But as far as the mounting plates go, i'm more concerned about the short legs ripping off the mounting plates. I was only asking because the mounting plates looked quite thin in the pictures. It should be good with the 3/16" metal and hopefully you never slam the entire weight of the truck on one side. I do like the crossing leg design though

Not revving past 4k RPM's sounds like the cat and might explain why it is dieing at lights also. Driving it through the river might have done something to it causing it to plug up

Home Depot will have whatever you need to fab brackets. You can usually buy the metal strips with holes in packages (coiled up).

The nylon ties are pretty standard using Aux coolers. Electric Fans are mounted in the same fashion. While they will work just fine, a lot of people including myself would like to see a more solid method of mounting them. The metal strips are a good idea. I used flat aluminum on my truck but that's a little different.

How thick are the mounting plates? I can't tell by the pictures but I personally wouldn't go thinner then 1/4".

But to answer your question.. My buddy with a R50 got a Reese hitch and its a very nice unit. Beefy and solid

Same here. I hated how the hitches stuck out really far because of the spare tire mounted underneath (mine has the tire carrier) so I made one and you can only see the receiver just below the bumper.

I would agree with that statement for the most part

The extra amps will be fine in any electrical system as long as the gauge of wire is large enough going from the alternator to the battery. I'm not sure what the R50 has stock for the size of wiring but upgrading would only improve the efficiency of the system.

One option is these bolt on or weld on hood louvers that this company makes... http://raceace.com/ They look pretty good but they seem expensive for what you get. I've been trying to find a local company that will stamp louvers directly into my hood

New Venture and its found behind 1990+ V6's. I'm not to familiar with the manual trannys so I may be wrong actually about the durability of the T5. I figured because they used the NV3500 behind the newer V6's still that it was a better option but after further research it may be just as good.

Thanks guys. I'm excited to use it myself. I should have taken more pictures when I was making it to show you guys the fabrication and what not. The vice is bolted to the tubing on all four corners so it is fully braced and I won't be to hard on it anyway. The top was made by a company that deals only with sheet metal forming like that, next door to my shop. They did an awesome job bending it.

So after getting fed up with the wood work bench that I had in my garage, I finally gave in and made myself a new metal one. The old bench was roughly 12" deep and 6 feet long which made for a crappy work area. The new one is 27" deep and 7 feet long with a galvanized sheet metal cover. I used 1.5" square tubing and some 1" angle iron for the shelf. The left side is reserved for TIG welding, I just need a nice bar stool to go there. On with the pictures... I still want to put on short legs and put in another piece of plywood for the bottom shelf. Let me know what you think!

Sorry, I meant for R50's generally. I really like the simple clean look of the gauges. I hate seeing any size white tachs mounted anywhere else on the dash. I'm pretty sure your 2.8L tranny is a T5 which means it may not hold up very long behind the 4.3L. Your best bet would be a NV3500 but i'd wait until the T5 goes on you. The engine itself is rated for about 160 hp but the torque will be a definite improvement over your old engine.

There aren't to many options but Dakota Digital makes just what you need... http://www.dakotadigital.com/index.cfm/pag...prod/prd127.htm Stock gauges look way better then aftermarket!

Your best bet would be to get the whole hood lightly sanded and clear coated again.