shift220

Home Depot will have whatever you need to fab brackets. You can usually buy the metal strips with holes in packages (coiled up).

The nylon ties are pretty standard using Aux coolers. Electric Fans are mounted in the same fashion. While they will work just fine, a lot of people including myself would like to see a more solid method of mounting them. The metal strips are a good idea. I used flat aluminum on my truck but that's a little different.

How thick are the mounting plates? I can't tell by the pictures but I personally wouldn't go thinner then 1/4".

But to answer your question.. My buddy with a R50 got a Reese hitch and its a very nice unit. Beefy and solid

Same here. I hated how the hitches stuck out really far because of the spare tire mounted underneath (mine has the tire carrier) so I made one and you can only see the receiver just below the bumper.

I would agree with that statement for the most part

The extra amps will be fine in any electrical system as long as the gauge of wire is large enough going from the alternator to the battery. I'm not sure what the R50 has stock for the size of wiring but upgrading would only improve the efficiency of the system.

One option is these bolt on or weld on hood louvers that this company makes... http://raceace.com/ They look pretty good but they seem expensive for what you get. I've been trying to find a local company that will stamp louvers directly into my hood

New Venture and its found behind 1990+ V6's. I'm not to familiar with the manual trannys so I may be wrong actually about the durability of the T5. I figured because they used the NV3500 behind the newer V6's still that it was a better option but after further research it may be just as good.

Thanks guys. I'm excited to use it myself. I should have taken more pictures when I was making it to show you guys the fabrication and what not. The vice is bolted to the tubing on all four corners so it is fully braced and I won't be to hard on it anyway. The top was made by a company that deals only with sheet metal forming like that, next door to my shop. They did an awesome job bending it.

So after getting fed up with the wood work bench that I had in my garage, I finally gave in and made myself a new metal one. The old bench was roughly 12" deep and 6 feet long which made for a crappy work area. The new one is 27" deep and 7 feet long with a galvanized sheet metal cover. I used 1.5" square tubing and some 1" angle iron for the shelf. The left side is reserved for TIG welding, I just need a nice bar stool to go there. On with the pictures... I still want to put on short legs and put in another piece of plywood for the bottom shelf. Let me know what you think!

Sorry, I meant for R50's generally. I really like the simple clean look of the gauges. I hate seeing any size white tachs mounted anywhere else on the dash. I'm pretty sure your 2.8L tranny is a T5 which means it may not hold up very long behind the 4.3L. Your best bet would be a NV3500 but i'd wait until the T5 goes on you. The engine itself is rated for about 160 hp but the torque will be a definite improvement over your old engine.

There aren't to many options but Dakota Digital makes just what you need... http://www.dakotadigital.com/index.cfm/pag...prod/prd127.htm Stock gauges look way better then aftermarket!

Your best bet would be to get the whole hood lightly sanded and clear coated again.

Here's what you should do if you want to operate the lights directly. The lights should be wired directly to the battery with the appropriate inline fuse and a relay. The relay should then be operated by a switch inside the cab so you can control the lights yourself. Alternatively if you have fog lights and wish to replace them, you can use that wiring to operate the relay and the factory fog light switch could be used.

Links to the parts or names of manufactures? As long as its a good brand name, I can't see any problems with the parts.

The heat in my 96 R50 is pretty darn good but it takes a little longer to warm up then my Sonoma. Like everyone else said, you probably just need a flush and make sure your fan isn't clogged. On the other hand, the weight distribution of these Pathfinders makes them top notch in the snow! Tires will make the biggest difference as others have said.

Yea i'm not quite sure about the bolt holes but it fits tight around the hub and that's what counts And yes, I won't denie that everything pretty much bolted up without a problem. The guy selling them only had one backing plate bracket that held the caliper so I made the passenger side one myself. I also had to adapt the brake lines to the caliper lines. Its not that hard to build backing plates and they can be put around any rotor (provided the rotor and caliper agree in thickness). So what other vehicles have the same bolt pattern as our Pathfinders? I suppose a pair of rotors could be drilled out as well.

Any doubting that rear discs are worth it on R50 Pathfinders obviously hasn't felt the difference from a stock drum to rear disc conversion! Even if 2/3 of the braking power from comes the front, if the rear isn't using up that 1/3 of "power" it has, then an upgrade will have a significant advantage. And especially more if you have a load on the rear end. I'll give you one example. This is the rear disc conversion on the rear of my little hotrod Sonoma. These are 12" rear disc brakes from an LS1 Camaro. The difference in braking was phenomenal from the stock drums. I pulled over 4000 lbs on the highway without a single problem and no brake fade. Probably one of the best upgrades i've done to the truck. And this is a situation where the braking is much more front biased compared to a Pathfinder. Pulling my little boat (~1000 lbs maybe) with the pathfinder made braking a little scary on the highway sometimes. So IMO is it worth it on a Pathfinder as long as its a big upgrade (not stock WD21 discs) and something is available. What do newer R50's have? Or even R51's?

Thats pretty cool and looks like it would work good! I watched the promo video and it looks pretty stretchy too. ...hooking it up around a trailer hitch ball is a no-no though

I'm surprised nobody mentioned it yet but they make weighted blankets that you can lay over the line whether it be a chain, wire, rope or strap and if it ever did snap, the blanket will fall to the ground taking the line with it. I know people have used heavy coats and thick blankets to do the same thing. I haven't personally done it but has anyone else? Seems like a good idea.

I've never dealt with struts personally yet... why don't you work with them? Do you have to replace the mounts when you replace the strut?

Increasing the rotor diameter has more to do with leverage the caliper has on the wheel to provide more braking power. On my Sonoma, the biggest difference was when I swapped out the stock drums for some 12" rear discs from an LS1 Camaro. And before that I did the slotted rotors, SS brakelines and Hawk Pads on the front and it didn't really make a difference. I had to put a proportioning valve on the rear brakes to stop them from locking up all the time. The improvement was incredible over stock. Now i'm not sure how this would apply to Pathfinders as my 96 has drums in the back and i'm not sure what options there are to upgrade the brakes or if newer model's came with rear discs.

Coolant level is good? Its weird the sensor would go erratic like that... especially if the new one is too

Which sensor exactly was the one acting up?