shift220

Here's what you should do if you want to operate the lights directly. The lights should be wired directly to the battery with the appropriate inline fuse and a relay. The relay should then be operated by a switch inside the cab so you can control the lights yourself. Alternatively if you have fog lights and wish to replace them, you can use that wiring to operate the relay and the factory fog light switch could be used.

Links to the parts or names of manufactures? As long as its a good brand name, I can't see any problems with the parts.

The heat in my 96 R50 is pretty darn good but it takes a little longer to warm up then my Sonoma. Like everyone else said, you probably just need a flush and make sure your fan isn't clogged. On the other hand, the weight distribution of these Pathfinders makes them top notch in the snow! Tires will make the biggest difference as others have said.

Yea i'm not quite sure about the bolt holes but it fits tight around the hub and that's what counts And yes, I won't denie that everything pretty much bolted up without a problem. The guy selling them only had one backing plate bracket that held the caliper so I made the passenger side one myself. I also had to adapt the brake lines to the caliper lines. Its not that hard to build backing plates and they can be put around any rotor (provided the rotor and caliper agree in thickness). So what other vehicles have the same bolt pattern as our Pathfinders? I suppose a pair of rotors could be drilled out as well.

Any doubting that rear discs are worth it on R50 Pathfinders obviously hasn't felt the difference from a stock drum to rear disc conversion! Even if 2/3 of the braking power from comes the front, if the rear isn't using up that 1/3 of "power" it has, then an upgrade will have a significant advantage. And especially more if you have a load on the rear end. I'll give you one example. This is the rear disc conversion on the rear of my little hotrod Sonoma. These are 12" rear disc brakes from an LS1 Camaro. The difference in braking was phenomenal from the stock drums. I pulled over 4000 lbs on the highway without a single problem and no brake fade. Probably one of the best upgrades i've done to the truck. And this is a situation where the braking is much more front biased compared to a Pathfinder. Pulling my little boat (~1000 lbs maybe) with the pathfinder made braking a little scary on the highway sometimes. So IMO is it worth it on a Pathfinder as long as its a big upgrade (not stock WD21 discs) and something is available. What do newer R50's have? Or even R51's?

Thats pretty cool and looks like it would work good! I watched the promo video and it looks pretty stretchy too. ...hooking it up around a trailer hitch ball is a no-no though

I'm surprised nobody mentioned it yet but they make weighted blankets that you can lay over the line whether it be a chain, wire, rope or strap and if it ever did snap, the blanket will fall to the ground taking the line with it. I know people have used heavy coats and thick blankets to do the same thing. I haven't personally done it but has anyone else? Seems like a good idea.

I've never dealt with struts personally yet... why don't you work with them? Do you have to replace the mounts when you replace the strut?

Increasing the rotor diameter has more to do with leverage the caliper has on the wheel to provide more braking power. On my Sonoma, the biggest difference was when I swapped out the stock drums for some 12" rear discs from an LS1 Camaro. And before that I did the slotted rotors, SS brakelines and Hawk Pads on the front and it didn't really make a difference. I had to put a proportioning valve on the rear brakes to stop them from locking up all the time. The improvement was incredible over stock. Now i'm not sure how this would apply to Pathfinders as my 96 has drums in the back and i'm not sure what options there are to upgrade the brakes or if newer model's came with rear discs.

Coolant level is good? Its weird the sensor would go erratic like that... especially if the new one is too

Which sensor exactly was the one acting up?

What year Pathfinder? Did you accidentally turn off O/D or something? It should throw a light if it doesn't want to shift on purpose but I couldn't tell you for sure without the year

Open diff? If so, its going to be really easy to break one tire loose on an uphill when its wet. Nothing to worry about, it just sucks

I don't think you'll have a problem with normal and tangential acceleration loads on the mounts even with just long 5" bushings. With driving on the road and mild offroading I wouldn't expect any trouble. Its the impulses you will receive during more extreme offroading that will cause things to bend or break. But again, with 10 mounting points (?) and very rigid bodylift blocks, only mild bracing is really needed.

I think your over-thinking this whole bodylift thing. It really isn't necessary to engineer such complex designs for body mounts. If your worried about bending bolts, either use larger diameter ones or do something like this to eliminate the bending moments on them. Provided there is enough room on the under the body and on the frame. Just imagine this sitting over the stock mount, the 4-5" bushing sitting snuggly in the brace and the body mounted on top.

After seeing the damage of my friend's wheel fall off his truck and not being able to break loose the lugnuts on my old Isuzu Rodeo, I'll never use an impact on anything thats put under a load on a truck ever again. Way to inaccurate and misleading when it is tight or not. Sure most of time its probably fine but i'm never taking that chance. Trusty old manual torque wrench for me. At least use a breaker bar and "check" the torque after. Anything over 75 ft-lbs on those and it'll be good.

Its a term to describe an engine where the valves go low enough that the pistons need to be recessed so they don't make contact. Kind of a unnecessary term if you ask me