fleurys

ho, and the way I saw you off road, I strongly suggest you buy the moog ones... they are garanteed for life.... I think you'll need it ! hahaha... I have them for that reason.... and they are more beefier.

Just a small heads up for everyone concerning new products that I will soon make available to the R50 crowd... I'm almost done with the new web site and the products will soon be finished...but here's a small insight on what's coming... 1) I finaly found a way that I feel confident to make my full belly skidplate in 2 parts. You will soon be able to buy my 'very well' tested skidplate in aluminum AND steel. 2) Half-shaft Spacers 3) Front skidplate with bigger oil filter access and bolting patern that will fit both the oem hooks and bullbar.. Will be available in aluminum AND steel 4) front and rear aluminum spacers 5) Extremely rugged trailing arms that will not break the bank... I won't tell everything, but let's just say that I took a good look at a pair that sells for 700 US$ and started from there...They will soon be installed on my truck and I will show npora first. The last trailing arms you'll ever buy... 6) later this year : front and rear full 3/8" thick aluminum bumpers. Just a few weeks.. shooting for end of march for the first 5 items.

real easy. they are threaded... make sure to unbend the lock washer first before trying to unscrew... (don't do like me hahaha)!

could this be related to your front ujoint ?? have a small try by removing your front driveshaft and have a test drive... S.

The death wobble on these trucks as always been because of the rear trailing arm bushings (usually the lower ones)... Check them carefully, the rubber inside is most likely thorned or cracked. The front tie-rods will most likely do a bang noise on small bumps, but not wobble as far as I know.

search the forum for oil cooler leak... you;ll see that is not a big or costly job.

I bet you're having the same issue as I did when doing my lift.... look here : http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=21966&view=findpost&p=387029

personnaly, I would not enlarge the holes... doing so, in my opinion, only makes the spacer and the strut tower more fragile as more material has been removed. all the force applied to this piece is coming from the bottom up and vice-versa... So to reinforce it (if it needs it), I would opt instead for some kind of plate on top (inside the engine bay) of the strut tower..kind of a brace to help the tiny metal of the tower to take the hits...

http://www.zcorp.com/documents/1004_ZPrinter150_250_EN.wvx http://www.zcorp.com/en/Products/3D-Printers/spage.aspx

Ho well..... Thanks for the opinions.... I have decided to go another way... 3/8" t6-6061 aluminum all around with some 1/4" minor parts. I will be posting my adventure as I go along... but i'm shooting for start to middle of my season to be done (front and back)....

I think you're mixing alot of things here... Welded front with manual hubs is exactly the same thing as front with an arb selectable. The only difference is I can lock the front without having to get out of the truck... Yes it's a pain in the a$$ to get out all the time, but you can safely do 90% of the trail with the front unlock and the rear locked.... then you lock it for the really tough climbs... it's a very good way of saving 1500$ if you ask me...

If you read the whole thread, you will know that he is planning on using manual hubs in the front... therefore no problems on the welded front.

I'm thinking for bumper construction. Would it be more rugged and resistant to shock if I bent a piece of steel 3/16 into a 90 degree angle, or using 2 pieces (same thickness) and weld them at 90 ?

Consider 2 pieces of metal at a 90degree angle. What would be the strongest in terms of resistance to bend and hit between a bended 1 piece and 2 pieces welded together ? S.

not an lsd... a locker at the back that will not let go or unlock when it wants too... because when you'll be climbing rocks that grip alot, you do not want your rear to slip, because it will make your front try to spin at the same speed... and this will break them... Either a good arb locker, or weld the rear (or better, a spool), but I would definitely not take an lsd or an automatic locker (lockright). I have seen too many fail of these on the trail and they have a tendency to lock when they want to when they age... S.

actually, they will be able to take it if you are also locked in the back... What kills an halfshaft (or any shaft) is the sudden grip they get when they spin fast then find grip.... When you are locked all 4, no shaft turns faster than the slowest of them... there is never a sudden snap or surge of traction... if you are not locked at the back, then you will put a lot of stress at the front to pull you... that might not work that good....

it happened to me last season... when is the last time you changed your transfer case oil ? for me , it was that. After many trips in high water, I had neglected to change the oil and this symptom started to occur... Now after every 2-3 trails where I went deeper in water than the diffs, I change the oil... no problem since..

seems to me your strut bearing is down for the count.. This part is what makes your strut turns easily when you turn the wheel... use the nissan oem for replacement... and don't wait too long..

i don't even want to think about winching at an angle with this...

very nice work !

There is a complete ABS diagnostic procedure in the fsm... Did you do it ?

Thanks alot morpheus....

front u-joints.... do an easy test : remove front drive shaft (8 bolts) and try... you'll know right away.

VERY NICE !!! did you do the install yourself ? you would not have by any chance, pictures of the bumper brackets would you ? Your truck is bada$$ !

Load Sensing Valve Get at the back of your truck, drop on your knees and look straight at the rear diff... just on top of it, you'll see a huge spring.... this is it ! S.