MY1PATH

It coulda been an 86-90 too... I used to have a link, I lost it, that grille only fits over the bucket beams. So you'd have to do the headlight swap if you found one.

the fins would likely be for giggles and practice. They would be right in the air stream but more so the would help potect the bung depending on where i put it. I don't have my parts yet ant I have not yet dropped the pan to see where the best place to add the bung is. (to avoid the filter and whatever else I might find, circut board i think...)

I use Energy Supension Fromula 5 grease on all plastic, poly, rubbber and all other suspension components that have a non-metalic part in them.

YES, Calmini bushings are VERY hard. Unlike all the other pathy UCA bushings out there out there, the calmini rotate around a machined sleve that is not part of the bushing. They are also a differant size so using aftermarket poly uca bushings is not an option.

take em off, do it right; Formula 5 suspension grease from energy suspension. Remove all dirt and oil and thinly Coat the inside and outside of the bushings with formula 5. This stuff will get everywhere if you lay it on thick. Re-assemble Keep a full can of WD40 and a rag handy use it ONLY for cleaning. it will remove the formula 5 from your tools and hads as nothing else seems to work quite as well at removing this super thick suspension grease. You can also get new bushings from calmini (still grease em). The older bushings were Delrin and delrin is extremely squeaky. The newer bushings are vekton which is oil impregnated and quiter. With the use of formula 5 my vecton bushings have been quiet since I installed them over a year ago.

ok here's one. where should I put my sending unit? I know it can be easily mounted inline(and before the coolers) but I like the idea of having in on my tranny pan. Difficulty and fabrication asside, is there any reason I should not do this? The fluid in the bottom of the pan wouldn't be any differant in temerature than inline would it? Maybe I could even make a finned trany pan while I'm adding the bung....

I got an e-mail saying to re-send he did not mean to decline. I think he meant to send it to you. I told him I had already paid so maybe he will get his head straight and ask you to Re-submit your offer.

there are 1 piece and 2 piece busshings. the 3 piece require no press. If you place the bushing under the bottle jack with a guide and line that up under the center of the front axe you should be able to exert 2,000 lbs when both wheels come off the ground.

Thats possible, we are talking about my old tbi 89 cali model Air still went thru it, I just couldn't see thru it. The 94 prolly burns cleaner (MPFI) so it won't be clogged but a larger core size will still make a differance.

NIce video, good steady hands with the camera. Sounded like you kept saying PVC instead of PCV. PVC- Poly-Vynl-Cloride. PCV- Positive Crankcase Ventalation. Now I know where mine is and how easy it is. Thanks Jim!

I know some guys who would charge $600 but they clean their way in and out as they go. Not allot of places care how their work LOOKS once finished, just as long as it works and the customer pays and drives away...

I'll do side by side core shots when it arrives for yall to see. Ok so the OEM 94 core has the same cell size as the magnaflow. BUT the oem has allot more of it. Holding light to it I can see half as much thru the OEM, it is heavy, rusty and bulky. I snaped the heads off all 4 bolts and the magnaflow went up nice and easy with fresh harware. I also pulled my 89's magnaflow for comparison. The lenghts are slightly differant but the only major differance is that the Pre-90's have an AIR Injection tube. OEM for my 94... Magnaflow for my 94... Magnaflow for my 89... all 3 cores have the same cell size... Here you can see the Girth of the OEM cat next to the Magnaflow. and lastly the 90-95 magnaflow next to my 89's magnaflow Unlike when I did my 89 I did not feel a big differance this time. Infact, aside from the slight change in tone I didn't notice anything at all. Still waiting on MPG results... Maybe its the rest of the stock exhaust holding it back, the cat was amost last on my 89(headders and muffer were done first) Or maybe my 89 was just clogged real bad.

Just thought I'd let everyone know there is an abundance of magnaflow cats available for our rigs on ebay right now and for cheap! http://cgi.ebay.com/...BSA%3AUS%3A1123 the link above listed at $91.06 but if you click "Make Offer" you can offer less. I offered $75 and he accepted (now I gotta pay for it lol). You might try him lower as I did not expect him to accept that low a price... So here's my scoop on the magnaflow cats; I think the OE pathfinder cats are too dense and restrictive. This was evidenced on my 89 when I changed it. The stock core was made up of of 1/16" cells(yes tiny, dese resrictive) and I could not see thru it when I held it up to the sun. The magnaflow I put in its place had aproximatley 3/16" cells (less dense and less material over all to get in the way) and I could see light bouncing off the grass thru it. After the install it felt like a cork had been pulled out of the engine and I averaged a 1.5MPG increase to boot! I'm hoping to have the same positive results with my 94. BUT I was kind of implusive and did not even look to see what the inside of the stock 90-95 cats look like lol. PN's 39765 for CA TBI 4cy and V6 22765 for 49 state TBI 4cy and V6 39760 for CA MPFI 4cyl and V6 22760 for 49state MPFI 4cyl and V6

well the 94 had the better casting process that the earlier models did not so your only differances will be exhuast studs (8vs10) and coolant passages... its easy enough to upsize the studs (if you choose) with the heads off so that leaves the task of coolant passages; lay the 3.0 head upsidedown and position a 3.3 gasket on it. pencil the outline of the passages that don't line up (they are very close) using a dremel cut to your outline connecting it to you existing passage clean up the edges with a debur wheel but avoid rounding your outlines, cut a hair smaller if you need to in order to protect your outlines GOOGLE, I can't remember the site but there are pictures of this being done for a VG swap.

LoL nice. yeah the softer (closer)side goes to the body I think the theroy is that its not responding to the inertia of the rest of the spring so it gives a more comfortable ride...

15x10's look great if they're just gonna be your street wheels. Not recomended for abuse on IFS tho.

I think there is a write up. I can't remember who but I remember it being a pain in the arse requiring lots of force with hammers and clamps and such to get the new ones in.

whats the biggest tire I can fit on my 94 without lifting it?

If you like tuning a wrenh(litterally) for the sake of turning a wrench you should try it.weird angles and pinched fingers are common. we used a strut compressor on each side of my friends z28 springs and that was a little easier... so the moog had 9 winds instead of 7 and 4 of them are close spaced for progressive comfort and the rest are for ride height and load handling. NICE side by sid shot. 3/4" isn't much for a new stock height replacement you old ones may have sagged a bit and your new ones may need to settle in a little so the most important part is that it feels and drives better. The rear can be 0.5~1" higer to aid with polite road handling under loaded conditions.

well the valve will still fall down just not as far. But he is right, I think you'll still be able to grab the stem when your ready to put the keepers back on.

Yeah my sending unit leaked right thru the plug, I guess the old plastic shrank or cracked inside letting oil out...

well the pin can easlily be swapped out with a very large bolt. I belive a 5/8 or 16mm bolt might do the trick. Get one with a 60mm sholder and cut off the extra threads.

don't forget, depending on how high you go, to disconnect your brake 'T' from the axle so it can flex and you parking brake anchors too. I needed to do so when installing my rough country springs.

Valve SEALS are pretty cheap and they can be done without removing the head but you will need a compressor to presurize your cyl and an overhead valve compressor that bolts to your head when you use it. those are hard to find, make your own out of a steel plate, cut off c-clamp and a notched out socket....

Did you ever get that oil thinning issue fixed? did the ATF down the valve cover hoses help get it out with your next oil change?