MY1PATH

I think hid's in non-hid fixtures are un-safe. too much light gets in other drivers eyes and not enough light points down the road.

when under load mine also sputters just a little @ 4700rpm but smooths out by 5k. I just figured its the engine telling you its near its limit. I run my timing on my tbi @ 15 deg instead of 12 I also know that the mpfi vg30e is sopposed to run @ 15. I notice better fuel economy when running 15 deg but nothing else feels differant. as far as redline, like everyone else said, its the design of the engine. in the case of the vg30 there is risk of the pistons coming up faster than the valves can close @ above 6600rpm. so the ecu prevents you from doing so.

mine had similar issues; stalling out exactly @ 2800. It took a while to figure out but it was the injectors. their resistance had gotten so high that the ecu went into limp mode. this can also happen if the resitance gets too low and it can also permantly damage your ecu to where it will make the next set of injecors fail. whatever it is I hope you get it fixed soon.

lol loooks like they take it down every time somone looks @ it and the put up again when they leave.

well, Max stryker said it would bolt right up but maybe that was for the r50. both r50 and d21 will need a pigtail with ford on one end and nissan on the other. for the d21 I had to cut 3" off my alty braket, grind down a few corners and have the bolt welded flush inside the tensioner because the head was interfering with the belt @ the new angle. after that it did go right in with a longer belt. I used a pathy pulley (3") but it originally had a 2" pulley on it. the lights dim @ idle so I still chance overloading it under 1k rpm. once I get a 2.5" pulley for it the problem should be solved and I may even be able to run stock belt size again. it wasn't difficult at all, just frustaigting becuse what I expected to "bolt right up"(20min) turned into a project that left me w/o a vehicle for a day. the long term benifit is chaging bushes and voltage regulators cost only $50 new or $20 new on ebay versus having to get a new sealed alternator each time.

its back in black! http://seattle.craigslist.org/sno/ctd/1047364638.html

we used a piece of pipe and deadblow(rubber) hammer when we did a buddies not too long ago. the pipe evenly distributes the load so the seal goes in straight.

34-36 psi should be ideal for the pathfinder running 31x10.5r15. closer to 36 if your on a road trip w/ a heavy load.

I hope they find their way here

no, the author deleted the craigslist listing. I think it was a 90+ too...

if you swap your left and right e-brake gude loops (so they are upside down) you will gain a little more reach for downtravel and they will still flex enough to allow bottoming out w/o any strain on the e-brake lines. the rest, I belive should be ok w/o extending. somone else will prolly correct me if I'm mistaken.

I had the same problem; your igniton transitor may have gone out. Its the litte(like 2"x1") finned box attached to the same bracket as your coil. I don't know if it makes a differance but my mechanic said to "make sure you get a hashani transitor if you have hashani coil and a hitachi transitor if you have the hitachi coil."

check seattle craigs list. I think a saw a 4dr wd21 in mint condition for like $5.6k or something like that yesterday. black vg30 auto no rust!

if its still a daily driver I would not do more than 1 disc on each side. I think sandbag on N4W has been going thru tires quickly w/ even that much. I think he used the medium size disc.

If your are running a stereo, elctric rad fans or extra lights I reccomend getting a higer output alternator so that it doesn't keep failing for the voltage regulator being locked open all the time. 15v is the max voltage you wanna see even on a spike. when running under full load(every thing on that can be) if it can't maintain 13.5v your voltage regulator is going to wear out quick.

the stock 60a(-1989) and 70a(1990+) alternators don't seem to be suffiecient to mainain a good ignition sytem power when ligths, fans and stereos are added. this can aloso wear out alternators quick because the voltage regulators were not designed to but used @ full open all the time. I reccomend getting a higer output alty; I just finished making a re-wound 180A fortd alty fit in my 89. it has an external reguator and is easily bebuildable so the outlook is bright (no pun intented)

try cleaning your MAF; theres an article in the how-to's. run the tank to empty and re-fill w/o the marvel and see what that does.

I just replace it every 60k

I had a set of Python Injectors once and THEY BOTH FAILED at the same time after only 4 months of use. It put my vechile into limp mode which prevents rpm above 2,800 and dropped my average down to 9mpg for that tank. 1 I can understand, but the pair went out. they also may need a core if your going to have them do your MAF. IMO don't trust them and stick w/ stock or If you must look @ what the 300zx guys are doing for MAF; I think they convert other vehicles MAF's to their needs.

I got tired of replacing mine every several years so I loaded one side up with a spring. Now it always opens on its own, stays open @ full and the stuts just act like a dampener to slow the srping down.

this will reset the Poll if you add it but souldn't "My Truck" be an option? I say pathy and pathfinder but more than anything I say "my truck." and anyone who argues I tell them its on the d21 truck chasis and "SUV" didn't exist in 1989

the only reasons not to that I can see are; hood & door jamb clearances harder to clean heavy appearance Pros; durable non-slip (good 4 roof surfing) easy DIY job appearance Go 4 it and post pics when your done!

you're funny man; I mean it works as a refernce point but lol its fun to picture too.

just curous as to how headders would make emissons worse? Its the same amount of exhaust gas, just less resistance on the way out. I thought the only reason headers get emissions certified is to say that they do not move the stock postiton of the catalytic converter.

when you go custom keep the o2 sensor as close to the Y pipe as possible, hotter exhaust gasses give it the most accurate reading.