crazyhayseed

I see. How close do you think the SOHC harness would be to the DE? I suppose chopping a 240 harness to make up the missing bits is an option.

Yes, yes. Also, better aftermarket, easier to work on, more room in the engine bay... The hardbody is a carbed Z24 isn't it? That's a bit of a dinosaur compared to the EFI KA-DE. The L-4's are much more efficient than the V6 in my experience. And with power numbers already rivaling the 3.0 stock, I'd be interested in what the little four could do when it's built. I don't think a turbo would be that great, but N/A, stroked to 2.7L, with a free-flowing head, might do surprisingly well off road.

Damn you communist Canadians and your "metric" system! Where's my conversion table....

Be aware; The AT has it's own seperate computer located inside the rear pasenger side of the trunk. You may want to check that before you invest in another trans or main ECU. DL the service manual and have a look at the AT section before you trust another "professional's" opinion. There's a whole guide to trouble-shooting. These electronicly controlled transmissions have a lot going on. There's a lot of room for gremlins. I'm still trying to track mine down, though, I'm not having near the trouble that you seem to be. Good luck!

Don't cross the streams!!!

That's a good point. I had lots of problems w/ the mechanical oil gauge in my Equus set at first. However, if you replace the plastic tube w/ copper (sold by autometer) and remember to teflon the threads, your set-up can be damn-near bulletproof. Electric is easier though.

I dunno about the other holes, but here's the factory sensor location: FSM sez wat....

This is a great option. It goes along w/ what nunya said about them kicking off when the Highs are on. The factory fog system does this. It also looks uber-clean (no goofy JC Whitney toggles) and makes wiring a snap. My spots are wired this way. I just re-routed the harness from the bumper to underneeth the cowl. I really like my Hella 500FF's. They do the job. They're light weight. They won't rust. I'll buy more when it's time to install my roof rack and bumper. Also, if you decide not to use the factory harness, the Hella's come with ALL of the wiring (including the relay) and detailed instructions. ~Easy. KC's are tried and true, but I doubt they'll perform any better for as much more as you'd pay.

Thank you. I really appreciate it. I'm not really sure about planning a swap ATM. Just a little investigative engineering. I do have a long-block that might be usable though.

No wonder your steering system is illegal and no one will insure you! You may need to find an ASE certified mechanic to help you fix this.

There are a couple more bolts on the 4-door. That's it as far as I know. I really don't think AC is fair in charging 10-20 extra dollars for 4 extra bolts.

Yep, same block. I think the tranny bolt pattern is a little different between the E and the D though. The pathfinder KA24e uses a different drivetrain than the V6. However, the transmission is shared between the VG and the DE. Like I said, I was just wondering. The worst part I can forsee in a swap like that would be engine control and wiring. The KA-DE is well supported by the aftermarket. There are a couple of different stroker kits boasting the ability to bring the motor from a 2.4 to a 2.6 or even 2.7 litre. With a few select parts and the right tuning, the engine could very easily out-gun the VG30 while still being efficent and economical. And it would be a hell of a lot easier to change spark plugs!

Does anyone know of a KA24DE from a 240sx or Frontier ever being swapped into the WD21? According to the FSMs, both the 240 and the Frontier share the same transmission w/ the V6 Pathfinder (RL4R01A). The Frontier also shares the TX10A transfer w/ the Pathy. All of the elements seem ripe for a swap (though it could easily be construed as a down-grade), so I was just wondering if it’d ever been tried. In case you’re wondering, here are the ratings: KA24DE - • Max power: 155 hp @ 5200 rpm • Max torque: 160 ft•lb @ 4200 rpm VG30E – • Max power: 153 HP @ 4,800 rpm • Max torque: 180 ft•lb @ 4,000 rpm

No, I think he means a safari basket rack, not those silly lengths of plastic that came from the factory. Like This: I'm with the gallery. 4 looks better. Besides, you'd probably get a better effect by 2 pointing straight ahead and 2 turned slightly outward (left and right). Or you could just ditch the odd one and mount two to the bumper like you'd originally planed.

Pathfinders still sell high. $1800 for such a clean example is great.

You can buy a new frame. It's not cheap, but its easier than a tube and more of a guarantee than a series of patches. Why this is so rarely listed as an option eludes me... Maybe because Pathy owners are cheap or broke or both. I love the idea of a fresh start though.

I'm for checking the tires. You'll get rocks stuck in the treads sometimes. Makes a horrible racket... The thicker the tread, the bigger the rocks, the louder the clicking. My ProComps pick up some the size of walnuts! Sounds like a gunshot when they sling one out into the fender-well at 45mph.

Add another XE to that equation. HG46/Open.

A working tach was optional in the 95. You had a choice between it or a working spedometer. You could try a JDM swap, but then the gauge will read backward. Good luck!

I question your definition of "on the cheap".

I'm not one for flaming but this thread is begging for it.

Now I'm really confused. Is this a V6? I'm gonna have to dig through the FSM on this one.

Can someone explain the nessessity of a reed valve for a Pathfinder? I can't make sense of it. What's it do?

So, I finally got the opportunity to talk to AC about the 1" BL. They say the kit only comes w/ blocks and bolts as there's no need for anything else contained in the regular lifts. That's great from an installation perspective (it ought to be pretty straightforward), but is it worth $100 plus whatever they charge to ship? I’m in kind of a pickle over this one. They’re waiting for me to call them back. They say it’s a custom order, which I presume means they’re going to cut-down a 2” kit as B suggested. I need the lift, but gee-wiz at the cost of some plastic spacers and a few bolts…. I could use some input.

You could get the cheap .99 Walmart flat black, but I can tell you it doesn't last very long. My truck is by no means a beauty queen, but a 10 minute paint job makes one hell of a diffence. Either way, you're not going to do much to inhibit rust now. The frame seems to rot from the inside-out. A fresh coat would do well to compliment that sweet SAS outfit though.