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crazyhayseed

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Everything posted by crazyhayseed

  1. I beg to differ... Google will come up with a few of these, most from companies and teams that are long since gone. I lost all of my Pathy-specific bookmarks a while back, so I can't really point out a good source.
  2. Endorse all you want. If ES puts the wrong parts in the right box, your beloved retailer accounts for dick. Just an update; These jerks are at it again. After calling on the Sentra bushings, they promised to figure out the mix up and send my swaybar kit post haste... Which arrived today... Short about 20 parts. Instead of a kit, they just sent 2 swaybar bushings. Just the bushings. No end links. No grommets. No hardware. Now, up until now I've been relatively patient on my calls, but this is just retarded. Somebody down there is smoking some serious reefer. Maybe the BBB will have the number of someone there worth talking to. Maybe I'll get a whole kit in someday if I bother them enough. If I still lived in SoCal, you can bet I'd've been on their doorstep with a big stick already.
  3. Haynes is the cliff's notes of the FSM. Check them together; There's places where it's word for word. Why pay $12 for the watered-down version when you can get the real stuff for free?
  4. carry. Possibly, but what do you mean by "lost". Did you look very hard for them, or just say "fskc-it, I'll buy more"... 'cause that doesn't often work with metric vehicles. You can usually get little hardware like that from a junkyard for free. I'd recommend stocking up if you make a run.
  5. I've mentioned this a few times over the last few weeks, but I figure it was time to thread the topic. I ordered two ES kits for my 21 two weeks ago from energysuspensionparts.com (AKA Del Sol Tuning of Stephenville, TX.) for my sway bar and compression rods. The company was listed on ES's official web site as an online retailer and their prices were pretty good. When the parts came in, the C-rods were fine, but in the box for the sway bar (which was of the right size and marked with the proper part no.), was yet another set of c-rod bushings... and nothing else. WTF? Dreading the coming ordeal, I e-mailed the retailer's customer service. As per internet standards, it took a full week of daily correspondence before they came up with a solution... "It's not our problem, call Energy Suspension." So I did. Which led to a long drawn-out phone call while the salesman complained about how the retailer is always trying to screw them and how he really shouldn't be helping me. Then he asks for the part number on the bushing packed in the box, which I relate as 7100. "No such thing", he says, "It must be a Prothane part that the retailer switched.", but they'll hook me up with a free sway kit anyway, because they're cool like that. Now, I know an ES bush when I see one and I know these aren't Prothane, so a quick search on the net reveals this. Sorry Jack, whether you like it or not, this screw-up came from the factory. But the new parts are on their way and I've just scored a free set of spare strut bushings, so who am I to complain... Right? Wrong! Apparently Energy Suspension can't even pack a warranty order correctly. After another week of waiting, my package arrived today in a bulk media mailer (no pretty ES retail box for this disgruntled customer). Inside I found a plastic bag containing bushings for the bar and enough to outfit one end link. No endlink bolts included. WTF again? Maybe I saw the pics wrong? So back to the web I went, searching through all kinds of posts about ES/Pathfinder installs and every picture looks the same. These are not the right parts. So I check the part numbers. 7.5115R. That's right isn't it? Check the previous invoice.. 7.5117R. Ah, missed it by one digit. Now I'm stuck with a set of sway bushings for a 91 Sentra. I'm about 7 hours and a heated phone call away from telling Energy Suspension to kiss my ass, I'm going to the BBB.
  6. If you're going to go crazy trying to mount these bearings you keep going on about, there won't be a need for washers. The way I mention is the cheap and easy way. Just fix the oblong holes in your frame buy welding the washer in place.
  7. That's the sex right there. All it needs is a set of twans and a gauged-out rockford. Psh, the hunnies be trip'n for Gator's G-whip.
  8. This is the Edsel of our generation. Don't be so quick to think that the Aztek broke any molds at the ugly factory. It has more buck-toothed kin than a Kentucky congressman.
  9. That's weird. If your alternator wasn't regulating voltage, I'd think you'd pop a ton of stuff before you fried the ECU... Like the headlights. In fact, I did have that problem with my 94 B13, and that's exactly what it did. Having the alternator tested would be good if you can find a shop that will give you something better than a Go/No Go test (ie: an actual Voltage measurement). Ultimately though, I think you'll need to trace you harness from the box and look for bad juju.
  10. I'm sorry, let me clarify... King Swinging Dick.
  11. You can try to rationalize it all you want, but I prefer the gremlins theory. G
  12. HKS made an exhaust system for the WD21 back in the day (Tuesday). If you can find one, you'll be the king of swing in my book.
  13. Nah, just weld the washer to the frame. In my case, the front cups were pretty-much gone.
  14. I feel weird about putting wood in my car/truck. Doesn't look bad though. A for effort... But, can you better explain what you gained here?
  15. I welded a heavy 7/8" washer to the bracket. It was pretty close to the original size.
  16. Wimpy arms.... I don't see any reason for that not to work. It's not like it gets any more support form the normal position. I suppose there's only one way to find out.
  17. What's this "torque" you speak of? Why would you want hundred pound crows feet? Just pull on that MF'er until the nut stops turning.
  18. Ok. I won't worry so much then. Thanks.
  19. I thought the Mile Marker instructions were fine when I changed mine over.
  20. The ODO is wonky like that. I recently fixed my speedo after years of driving with a broken speed sensor. The speedometer kicked on as soon as the sensor was installed, but the ODO took a little over a day before it kicked on. The way I look at it, that's a just few more miles that don't count. I only have 104k on my 95. That's above average!
  21. Has anyone used these parts? I'm looking at a set of their ball joints, but I'm wary of quality/price. Rock lists them 3/10ths of a dirt. They come with cool blue bushings too!
  22. It shouldn't matter. I've done it both ways and I noticed no difference other then it being easier to work with the tires out of the way. Do it like this and it should go more smoothly. -Remove the big end-nut from the compression rod (24mm wrench). -Remove the two bolts connecting the LCA (19mm wrench, 22mm socket). -Slide rod forward into LCA enough to clear bushings. -Remove old bushings. -Replace the rod into the frame with new bushings and washers in place against the bracket (don't forget the bushing sleeve). -Replace and tighten the end nut. Hold the compression rod steady with your 19mm wrench around the flat taper (As you tighten the end nut, it will be easier to align the holes for the LCA bolts). -Replace and tighten LCA bolts. -Soak tired forearms in Epsom salt taking care to keep out of knuckle wounds. I may get some flack on this (its a forum, there's always flack), but I've done this job three times in the last week and this is the best way I've found to do it.
  23. Negative. It makes you a bigger target for police and criminals alike. KY is open carry, but it's rare that anyone does it on a normal basis. You WILL be f**ked with. That's the point of going concealed. LOL! Awesome! Thats part of the reason I haven't moved back home. No matter how much I hate living in BFE, at least I can have a handgun w/o worrying about being treated like a criminal. I really need to say F-it and move to Texas.
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