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94extreme

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Everything posted by 94extreme

  1. that's the way to work it...
  2. if it's anything like the earlier gen moce II is Mixture Ratio Control Monitor which is probably where you're having issues. not sure if your truck has tbi or injectors but normally, in the supply line there is a bicycle type valve (shraeder(sp?)) where you hook the guages on.. not sure if zone will do the diagnostic mode II for you.. ask them. from what i have read a few times now is that you guys can do the screw flipping thing too without having to connect to an external device.. something about above the pedal.. hard to access but doable.. oh yeah, check for spark at the plugs.. also pop hood at night and see if there is a light show..
  3. slick, yeah.. johnboy, i worked on 3 last month and you pressurise the system you can find the leak pretty easy.. removing the lines is the pita part most of the time becuase of all the bends in them.. solid, if your buddy has access to one of those A/C service machines you'll be good to go.. they are automatic and they check the system... compressor maybe it if the hoses aren't leaking.. never heard of one go yet on a pathy.. i am not on any other pathy boards though..
  4. ther have to be some non electric tools in that shop.. you said you can get power from your buddy.. work it.. work it..
  5. damn jay.. you can get'r done dude.. basic set of tools isn't too expensive.. you can have the tk back together in a few bustin' weekends, i am sure.. talk to the land lord guy.. tell him your situation.. maybe he'll let you finish it in there... if there is a will there is a way man.
  6. ditch the b and go wheel.. and DO bogart this time, ok?
  7. yeah coulc be either one of those.. you'll have to look at you tire but since it goes away it's something related to the rear axle most likely.. you'll have to check over all the bushings again.
  8. stick a link in your sig.. closing..
  9. not arguing that. i sure hope it helped you. everyone ok?
  10. in off road applications it tends to come up and bust the hood. i've seen a few.. not putting one on mine, for sure.
  11. cool and good luck damn that's a lot of cats. :o
  12. how many miles in your truck.. if over a hundred and it's the stock one, you might wanna pull the t-stat to at least test it.. you'll need a thermometer that goes to ~200F though. that's way cheaper then warped heads.
  13. get them if you have the $$$, they are better then crappy rubber stock ones. for sure!
  14. napa is almost a sure shot but they will be somewhat expensive.. if you can bend them yourself (requires a bending tool) you could save a bunch. of course there is the dealer. i'd call them just to compare because you never know, they may be competitive.
  15. way to kill a thread B. great advice.. did you 4wheel today or something? cv job isn't too hard and you might as well look over all the parts there while you're in there.
  16. in AZ it's a lifetime license.. you do it once. here they are working on extending the period some from the now 4y but one driving test when i got my permit. just eye exams every 4 and a fee and off you go.. although i think they are requireing a class of some sort if you get 2 tix in one year. not sure because i haven't had a tic in a while.. since the fees went up and all the other jazz anyway. it's just money extraction procedure.
  17. the clicking is most likely from low battery especially since you can jump it just fine.. charge it fully next time.. if it has a clock or a radio maybe one of those sturted to suck the juice really bad... i think that's what was going on with my f150 at one time although i never really figured it out.. since i didn't drive it all the time i just unhooked the battery between the times i used it.. obviously that's not really the solution here.. keep us posted on how it turns out.. on the hug.
  18. that's most likely the pump then.. i wouldn't worry about it though.
  19. you can do it.. sorry to hear of your troubles though..
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