94extreme

sure does. oh and it looks :cool2:

http://npora.ipbhost.com//index.php?showto...t=0entry52628

or http://npora.ipbhost.com//index.php?showto...t=0entry52628

the 2wd may make a difference but you just have to force that extra quart in there, either throught the shifter (from the top) or lean the truck and put it in the regualr hole.

whatever you use make sure it is gl-4 only.. anything else doesn't seem to do it.. don't get gl-5 or anything else.. good luck.

first one was blue (i have only seen 1 other truck that same shade, ever) current is black

find another mechanic, it could be water or air in the line with those symptoms, it could be master cyl. i'd start with the easy/cheap stuff first which bleeding is. how is the fluid looking? dark? bleed it first, it doesn't take that much, pretty easy and see if that does anything, if not then you move on to another solution.

look where?

iirc, there is a voltage reg. in behind the gages that just controls the current to the cluster. the wiring diags in Haynes' are decent enough to be useful

looks little grimgreg-ish.. but good. B, I'll talk to a guy i know that makes vinal stickers and such. btw. what is the original size of those?

well, there is always a 3.8 ltr V6 VR Commodore engine. http://npora.ipbhost.com//index.php?showuser=1439

i think AC might have some too.

not sure what code 55 is but what 88 said was my first thought.

well, i bet the author does. hope he got his answer.

ok, i am cornfused now. ?? he asks one of the same questions in there my man, and a day before this thread got going. http://npora.ipbhost.com//index.php?showto...t=0entry78802

he posted in there before he asked this question. :confused:

probably have to change the filter a bit more often. all synthetic oils are "high endurance," if you will. i just started using the 5k one and we'll see. it's alsmot that time i think and last time i looked it the oil looked alright.

pry the rear grills w/ the plastic off. front door pannels have to come off. it's a bout a 15min job so don't sweat it. 3 phillips screws and some push pannel tacks that you just cearefully pry off. no big whoop man.

bad grounding (check both cables at the batter though,) weak battery, something up with a starter, starter selenoid..

lol, yeah that all important imp. part.. hahaha

air in the line see above

lol. i knew i saw it somewhere but couldn't think of where.. i almost told him to look through woot400.. hahahaha

hey welcome to the nippon motors.. you'll like it i am sure.. most of us LOVE our trucks. 1. there are some mysterious things that seem to happen with locks on some of these trucks. search the garage or year specific area but here is the scoop: the most common are the switches and connectors in the doors coming loose (apart.) the other thing that gave me fits for a while was that one of the door handles wouldn't fully retract so i'd get the quick up and then down on the locks too. to fix either problem you'll have to open the doors. very easy.. 2-3 screws and push fasteners all the way around.. everything comes apart pretty easy.. so, check all the connections and lube the lock and handle mechanisms.. realys, maybe.. not sure where they are but i can see that being a possible sulprit. and of course the easiest and simplest possibility is: fuse! hope that helps and keep us posted.. welcome

cranking by hand is more about feeling then hearing. go slow.. use a wrench on the ballancer and go v slow in the clockwise direction only.

why don't you pm him instead?