laxman0324

I'm interested...

So the pictures show whats going on. One of the bolts for the upper sway bar link bracket has a captive nut that is no longer captive, so it will not be coming off. I removed the sway bar link and still don't have enough room to fit a socket on the control arm bolt. How in the world am I going to get to that nut without cutting off the bracket or drilling out the bolt to remove the bracket? Let me stress I would really like to keep my sway bar. My only idea was to use and offset wrench but I do not like the fact that wrenches are 12 point with these nuts that are notoriously difficult to get off. The last thing I want is a rounded nut. I would appreciate any ideas!

Ty, I'm sorry about the damage and the complete idiocracy of people. I hope this fiasco somehow benefits you (don't know how but here's to wishing). Keep us updated man. Mike

Im fairly certain the only options are: PCV catch can and replace the valve covers...I read an article from a guy who tried to clean them by flushing them many times and it just didn't work well enough to justify not replacing them...

haha this page has gone a little off, but when someone says more better and that they want a man tranny in the same post it deserves to be pointed out... and i would only consider a trade for an excursion 7.3L diesel...

That I did. 250hp+5speed=about as much fun as you will have in an SUV...especially with my rebuilt almost locked LSD rear... And a stock pic...

im dieing to see finished pics...

That is great! Ty, I think you can manage that, eh?

I did a little write up on how to remove the sunroof it is really easy...PM me if you need pictures, but basically you pop off the side plastic pieces and take off 4 or 6 bolts and off comes the glass panel, just be careful with your alignment when putting it back on...

They will not fit because their bolt pattern is a lot tighter than ours (meaning the bolt circle is a smaller diameter).

Nissan got smart with the VQ R50 and put in a little metal piece that catches the oil that comes out and directs it over the subframe, so strategic placement of the oil catch pan makes for minimal mess. Of course this is without a skid plate on since I have the 4x4parts.com one and have to take it off each time

Because I was picking my nose while reading replies... I think you are going to make a good choice just make sure all things maintenance related are caught up on and you will be looking at thousands of solid miles from a great vehicle! My Pathfinder has 117k now and I have no noises of any kind...

Since when has the VQ35 not been a bulletproof engine? There is one little issue with the butterfly valve screws but first of all if you get a manual like me you don't need to worry about them and second of all I would much rather loctite a couple screws than change a timing belt. The VQ35 is a highly award winning engine that is still used today in the Xterra and Pathfinder (upped displacement to 4.0 but same motor) and in many Nissan cars. I test drove a couple Xterra and did not like them at all, the ride was much harsher than my lifted pathfinder and they were very clumsy on the street. Also, the cabins were very cheap looking and feeling, a Pathfinder will net you a much nicer cabin. And I am 6'4" and I would be uncomfortable in the back of my pathfinder, I can't imagine being the in the back of an Xterra! R50 Pathfinders are finally getting some aftermarket support so the future of our parts availability and variety is only going to increase from here, so I think nthe Xterra advantage there will diminish over time...

I would love to get my hands on an old Firebird (67-68?) with the HO I6 motor that the Camaro didn't have...

I tried to search but didnt find anything. For the VQ35 equipped Pathfinder, the manual is rated to tow 3500lbs and the automatic is rated to tow 5000 lbs. What gives?

A lot of interesting points made but I don't think BMW or Volvo will be getting rid of the I6 anytime soon...

Installed mine today, did not notice any difference on my local roads, but on the highway where it gets pretty choppy I was not getting as much side to side motion or shuddering, so for me it was well worth the money... BTW: you need a 22mm socket for the bolts your removing, and on my 01 with 117k they were pretty much a pain in the ass to get out, so expect a good workout even with a breaker bar.

Thanks for the great input guys! And on the note of I5's, GARBAGE!. I was test driving a Volvo C30 with the T5 motor and the dealer told me they use a 5 cylinder to get the mileage of a 4 cylinder and the performance of a 6 cylinder. Idiot, it's more like performance of a 4 cylinder with the mileage of a 6 cylinder.

Goddamn I would love to, but don't have funds or time...

I was thinking about this but I don't think its entirely true with todays technology. Case in point would be Volvo using a transverse I6 in some smaller cars and SUVs and BMW using the I6 in the 1 series. I was hoping the answer wouldn't be that simple so I created this topic to see what ideas came up.

As the topic states. Why is it dieing? Much smoother motor than a V6 not to mention the heavenly sound it makes, and we know that power is no issue with them just by looking at examples of NA and turbo models. Just something I have wondered about.

I understand what he is saying, I want to know what factors specifically.

Can you elaborate on that? I have installed strut tower bars on multiple vehicles and aside from clearance over the engine I don't see an issue? Thanks.

On the topic of structural rigidity, I would like to see a strut tower bar for the Pathfinder...

I am running Nissan wheels off of a Xterra Supercharged model. Size is 17x8. First pic had 265/65R17 which fit perfectly, second pic had 265/70R17 which rubbed almost bald. Now I am running 255/70R17 which look a bit narrow for my taste but fill the wheel wells pretty well.