Zibi

I'm just a little daft is all

haha nice to know. I'd be interested in helping start up an account. I use my Mom's account when I go to Lordco, she works for the District of Maple Ridge. I have a friend who works at another Lordco and he's hooked me up in the past too. However I've recently been buying from NAPA because I've found it to be cheaper despite having the discount at Lordco (plus it's a 2 minute drive from home ) I'm always down to bring my business to a NPORA member though. Maybe PM me your name/when you tend to work and next time I need some parts I'll stop by.

Oh I get it now, cut the ROOF off the back. Body generally includes more than the roof... so I was confused, added to by that fourth post being a topic where the entire body was chopped off at the B pillar.

Read the OP, he wants to cut it off behind the rear seats. Thats called bobbing.

Coquitlam, read up, theres a couple others too

All the advice given is good. Since you need a couple tools I'd suggest just buying them if you plan on doing your breaks yourself in the future. Get some break cleaner and spray them all down pretty good. Just as the others said, make sure you don't breath in the fumes. Also be careful when adjusting the e-brake setting. If you're replacing the shoes you'll need to adjust it as the mechanism tightens over time. Get a Haynes manual, it'll show you what you need to do and post up here with any other questions

Yeah cab swap, not bob the @!*% out of a pathy. Whats the point in just doing a cab swap? Only reason I can think of is if you have a hardbody with a rusted frame and a cheap pathfinder with a solid one. All I'm saying, is I wouldn't want to put my kids in a vehicle I bobbed because I have very minimal welding experience. Granted I don't have kids, but for the sake of argument I wouldn't put any loved one in a vehicle I bobbed or modified the structural build of. Granted that statement is entirely relative to your fabricating skill and experience. I've seen a lot of bobbed toyotas and other vehicles done very well by people who knew what they were doing. I'd still say if you just want a truck to go hunting with the kids in and need box space, look around. If you just want a bush beater, you could look at an older full size domestic, they tend to go for cheaper. Not commenting on reliability at all there are various crew cab and quad cab full size domestics, dodge made the dakota in a four door as well but those are a bit newer.

just buy a crew cab or quad cab pickup and flatdeck it. My ideal truck would be a four door diesel hilux, but we don't exactly get those in NA. Get a four door frontier, or a crew cab anything. It'll be a ton cheaper, a lot faster, and unless you're a skilled fabricator, a lot safer (structurally). That is unless your reasons for doing it are you want to be different or you're bored and want to fabricate something.

Agree completely. We rarely get snow in Vancouver, so when we do people don't know how to drive in it and don't have proper snow tires. Only time I've been scared driving for reasons other than other drivers flooring it trying to get up a hill beside me with summer tires in their beamer, was when I lived in the Kootenays and drove in a complete whiteout late at night in the dark 30km or so from the nearest town. That one was interesting, zero depth perception.

Try to stick to around the gvw of your truck and you'll be fine. If your engine starts smoking at any point when towing you've officially been a moron. If you hook up a trailer and you're nosing up then it's likely you've got too much tongue weight and shouldn't tow it. Like MY1PATH said get a trany cooler, auto trany overheating is a weakpoint in most pathfinders. You could also get airbags that go inside the rear coils if you're going to be towing a lot of weight, I've thought about doing that.

If I recall maxstryker ran 37s. I think when you're getting in to that size though you'd be more worried about breaking axles than rubbing.

Because if you're going to go to the trouble and expense of putting a straight axle in, why would you put a D30 in? If you want to run anything bigger than 33s you'll just keep breaking axles, and you can run 33s with the IFS. If you're going to spend the money and time, you might as well put something good up there that will last and stand up to abuse.

I ran stock sized tires on my truck for a couple years @28psi and ended up with some noticeable cupping, so the last while I ran them I did so at about 32psi and they seemed much better (plus fuel mileage improved noticeably). Now I run 31" duratracs on steelies and I've got them at 32psi and am considering putting a bit more in. Way back when I was taught that regardless of what the tire said you should run what the vehicle spec was in the tires. That however doesn't take into account different sized tires, especially if they're noticeably larger or smaller than stock. And if you're getting uneven wear (do a chalk test) in terms of cupping or bulging, then your tire pressure is wrong no matter what the door placard says.

The strap tightens before the suspension fully droops

Honestly, the more people producing products for r50s the better. I see different people taking stabs at building the same types of skid plates, SFDs and bumpers, I don't see this as any different.

I was thinking about a rear brace, but not sure where you'd put it. Thats essentially installing another crossmember.

Hey, I can't this weekend but maybe some time in the future

Looks good man And it's probably just a semantics issue. They probably put legislation in to place to require vehicles to have windshield wipers but made it all encompassing ("All vehicles must have operating windshield wipers"). The windshield legislation is probably separate and includes exceptions.

Fantastic, thanks for the responses guys! It would have been helpful to post this a few weeks ago as I now have zero time to do it I'll probably end up replacing the rubber hoses. I was using a mini prybar (basically a flathead screwdriver with a bent tip) with some success but the rubber started to crack and as I said before I left this to the absolute last minute and didn't want to go through that And Hitman, feel free to post up a how-to, can never have enough of those here! I should really take my camera with me when I work on the truck, always mean to but always forget.

Searched and couldn't find anything, sooooo.... Anyone have any tricks for changing the fuel filter? I spent half an hour in 37 degree celcius heat under my truck today tugging at it before I gave up. I couldn't get the inlet and outlet rubber hoses to budge, and I was a bit trigger shy about really givenr since I have to take it on a 1600km roadtrip on wednesday and I don't have time to deal with any more @!*% breaking. Another question. The Hayes manual says to pull the fuel pump fuse in the drivers cockpit and turn over the engine until the lines are purged. I could not find a fuse for it, but I instead pulled the relay in the engine bay. Had the same apparent effect so I assumed it would be sufficient (almost started and then just chugged away for a bit). Any different? Anyone know which fuse is the correct one on the dash? I've been unable to find an accurate schematic of the fuse panel. Any help would be appreciated, the filter doesn't look like it's been changed in ages.

Year: 1996 LE Lift: OME Wheels : 15", 4" backspacking. They're soft8s Tires : 31x10.5 BFG Duratracs Notes: Front bumper was trimmed on the corners, still rubs at full lock.

The tire is the same width so it'll fit. The 245 relates to the width of the tire being 245mm, the 70 relates to the diameter of the tire proportional to the width. You could fit any vast array of tires on your vehicle and rims, the important thing to know is how wide your rims are, not just the diameter. The problem you are more likely to face when putting larger tires on your vehicle is them rubbing against the bumper, fender, or wheel well liner. Take a look at this thread to get an idea of what other people run. The one other thing to note is that in terms of offroad tires, a 17" is rare so you are limited in your selection. 15" rims are the most common. 16" and 16.5" rims are also fairly common but generally only for much larger tires. I think the majority of people on these forums with "offroad" type tires are running 15" rims.

Did not know that, that would explain why I needed to trim so much of my front bumper just to accommodate 31x10.5 tires.

Yeah my tires stick out about 2" and I haven't had any trouble with the police. I don't have mudflaps either. I'm looking to install something though because I've got to do about 1500km of rural highway driving next week and the best way to piss off a redneck is to shoot rocks at his windshield. It also freaked the girlfriend out when we were cruising on a FSR and my tires were kicking rocks against the side of the truck and up through her passenger window.

I know its already been answered, but does the sticker in the drivers door jam say?