Zibi

is your blower set to the feet setting? I get minimal airflow through the vents even when the blower is off, so I just leave it on windshield so it isn't blowing on me.

Truck needs to be at idle in N. Shouldn't matter if the trucks upside down so long as the wheels aren't spinning. I have the same problem once in a while too, I just run it through the gears or turn it off before shifting to 4lo, but it's rare and not consistent.

The reason people suggest to get manual hubs when you lift an R50 is because R50's have fixed drive flanges...so the front axles are always spinning regardless of whether you're in 4wd or not. When you lift an IFS truck the angle of the CV joins increases and they begin to rub on the CV boot. The reason people say you don't need it with an OME lift is because it is a smaller lift than the AC one, therefor potentially less rubbing. The only question is whether you want to risk having to replace your CV axles more often with the lift. If you don't care then don't bother, if you're worried then spend a bit of money now to save a lot later on.

10cm? Might want to measure again, thats 4" of lift. Is that perhaps to the ground including new tires?

I've got a heavy foot and I live in BC where flat land is considered endangered and is federally protected. I choose not to measure my mileage in order to maintain my own sanity.

Theres a guy who drives a stock one on 35s around here, very impressed with where that thing will go. Of course his door panels are all beaten to @!*% now though.

nevermind, they got sold out from under me.

This is the only image I have of them, otherwise I know nothing about them.

I'm buying some 31" BFG A/Ts that come with 6bolt chev rims. I recall reading that chevy rims will fit the pathfinder, but I also remember reading that they won't fit over the front hubs. Which is right? I have stock suspension with the stock drive flanges (no manual hubs). For $200 it would be stupid not to pick up these tires and I have no problem selling the rims and buying new ones if they don't fit. Anyone run chevy rims? Can I run chevy rims?

I'd be interested, I need new bushings all around. Would these just be rear LCAs or would they also be uppers and front upper and lower control arms? It basically comes down to cost. I need to replace my bushings soonish and only really can afford to make sure my truck is safe and in good mechanical order. So if they cost near to or less than the amount of an OEM set shipped then I'd definitely be interested.

Don't get a magnetic mount. I leave my sunroof open when I can wheeling just so I can stand my magnetic antenna back up every 8 minutes after it gets knocked down by a branch.

You ran 32"s on stock height didn't you? What kind of rubbing did you get with/without the bumper surgery?

Eh I agree completely. Like I said, pack out what you pack in down to the last bolt.

Whatever, they had fun. As long as they brought out all the bits they ripped off and didn't fskc up anything ecologically. Anyway their idea of "destroying" it was pretty p***y. I know people who wheel that hard on a regular basis sans the hitting of poles and other stupid-intentional-non-wheeling-acts.

looks great man

I'd go over it mechanically first. Things like the bushings may be starting to go which will affect your ride quality and handling. I'd replace those with the poly ones from AC. I'd also just generally make sure it's sound, that the tbelt was done as most vehicles require it around 100k (can't remember exactly what mileage a pathy needs it at). Doing the tbelt generally means doing the waterpump too. Then brakes, stock suspension, etc etc. If it's been well maintained and doesn't need any serious work then I'd look at the same things that tekazgtr said, just in a different order. I'd go wheels, armour, susp lift, manual hubs, and then if you've still got money the lockers since they cost about the same as a small bus full of children. Point is I've owned my truck for about a year and a half and it's still mostly stock. Thats not just because I'm a poor student, I've dropped a couple thousand into routine maintenance and I've either done it myself or done by friends at a deal. That @!*%s expensive and you'll still have to drop for it after 5gs in mods.

Actually looking at those pictures it looks like someone put a tip on at some point and that is what has rusted out. Neither the stock exhaust on my '96 LE or the OEM replacement I put on a few months ago have a tip, it looks pretty much like that exhaust right up to that joint where its rusted. I'd just hack it off and leave it be, maybe if your cut isn't so pretty put a tip on it.

Dude that tailpipe is totally costing you like 100hp, get that @!*% fixed. It's a rusted tailpipe, it's not going to do any harm aside from looking ugly. Check for rust along the rest of your exhaust though, particularly the ends of the resonator, muffler, and the joint just before the rear axle. Those things you would want to get fixed.

last august I had both outer CV boots replaced by a local dealership. The service manager was a tech for a good 20 years and is a family friend, my brother worked for him for a few years and he introduced my brother to who is now his wife, so I trust him. Anyway Nissan policy is to replace the entire CV axle when a boot cracks. As someone previously mentioned, you have to almost remove the whole axle to get at the boot anyway. Being a poor college student I didn't want to shell out the extra for the axle so I asked him what would happen worst case (my passenger outer CV boot had been completely torn in half for about 4 months at that point). He said when they fail you'll be able to hear an audible clicking sound which is more noticeable when at full lock, but in his experience causes no other problems unless you actually put it in 4wd. He said in his 20 years as a tech (which would cover almost the entire life of the IFS pathys) he's never seen a CV axle completely fail. Point is nothing to worry about. Spend the $20 to get a new CV boot. If you did your own lift replacing the boot should be no problem for you. Just get all the @!*% out of the joint and regrease it. Worst case it does go at some point down the road it's not going to cause any harm.

I just put a high concentrate mix of oxyclean on it and scrubbed a bit and it seemed to get it all out fine, but that was asphalt not concrete. My Mom says she has some stuff but I didn't ask what it is called because I didn't need to use it.

buy them anyway. Even if it doesn't have the stock wiring it shouldn't be particularly hard to wire them yourself. 50 bucks is a great deal for heated leather seats.

3.7L for the 4wd 3.3L And I wouldn't go over, remember when you drain your old oil you won't get it all out of there so it's already going to be over a bit.

Don't know what the terrain is like down there but you wouldn't get too far with a 2WD up here. I wouldn't put too much (i.e. any) money into it as an offroader personally. Doesn't mean you can't have fun with it though.

Go talk to the guys at Jeep Thrills, they're highly recommended on most local forums and I have no doubt they could help you out with whatever questions troubles you have if you make your own lift. Never personally dealt with them, but know a few people who have.

All that cosmetic removal is ricer lightening. In a geared up 4x4 the recovery gear alone might weigh 3 times as much as all that cosmetic @!*%. The donut, receiver, etc. being removed are groovy because he doesn't need them since they've been replaced by bigger better things. I don't think removing door panels or carpeting would save enough weight to counter the potential inconvenience of not having them in.