Zibi

No not yet. In the FSM it says to ground the DLC using a wiring harness, which I don't have. I talked to a local guy who sent me some screenshots of the shopkey procedure that shows how to ground it just using a piece of wire, but I've been too lazy. I'll post up here when I run the diagnostic, but I'm thinking I won't get it fixed for some time as I'm a poor student right now

Phone your local offroad shops. I found out only after I'd ordered my springs from the states that one is a distributor but they aren't listed as being such by OME.

For me it's not temperature dependent, and happens at most speeds. I don't generally try to engage 4wd if I'm going fast, and much of the time I do use 4wd I'm going rather slow as I'm on uneven surfaces or something I fear might kill me if I'm going balls out I do sometimes forget and throw it into 4wd while doing 80 or 90km/h, but that is very infrequent as we don't get snow here that often.

Where are you from? Your city or one near it likely has a local OME distributor. OME springs will work but they'll probably give you some lift. If you're sagging out with a minimal load so your tires rub then your stock springs might just be shot and replacing them may do. You may also just be using the wrong type of vehicle...if you're transporting heavy stuff regularly, maybe you should consider a vehicle that was designed to carry that sort of weight or more.

Mine has always done that so long as I've owned it. Making left turns will turn it off, as will reversing a few feet. Otherwise I just keep driving and so long as I'm not going blisteringly fast it'll turn off after a couple minutes. I've never really seen it as a problem, only a minor inconvenience.

I wouldn't be worried about being nose up with the HD coils up front and MD in the rear. The pathfinder already comes with the "towtruck" look stock, where the front is lower, and the OME lift of MD/MD only increased that. I seem to recall reading other users who had HD coils up front and MD in the rear installing spacers in the front as well to level the truck (sorry can't remember who). I really do wish I'd measured how much lift I got when I installed the coils. It seems like I got more than 0.5", closer to the 1.75" claimed previously, but it's impossible to tell without measurements and taking into account how much the stock suspension had sagged. I didn't do anything with the bump stops and don't think they would need upgrading in particular. If you've just lost one it might be cheapest to replace it with an OEM one, maybe pull one from a pick'n'pull.

No, I haven't tried the HD coils, I'm just basing that off of what I've read from other users posting their experiences. I did a lot of research before I purchased my lift last spring, give the forum a good search. All I can tell you is that without skid plates (which I have but don't have installed) or a heavy bumper, my MD coils ride very nicely. They are fairly stiff and provide a much more "truck like" ride than the stock coils I previously had, which were not terribly worn out. Most of what I read regarding the HD coils was that they rode very nicely after they had been broken in (driven on for several months), but when they were new they did not flex very much. As far as heights go, I am quite certain that there is only one size of lift. I don't remember what the product number for the LD coils are, but the MD coils are OME923, the HD coils are OME928, and the rear coils are OME922. Different sellers list the coils as providing different lift amounts, anywhere from .5" to 1.75", but the product codes are the same meaning that the actual product is the same. I would say that the .5" is probably more accurate. I didn't measure my lift, but my truck appears to only sit maybe a couple inches above stock trucks I've parked beside, and I'm running larger tires and they likely have older worn out suspension. One day I'll go out and actually measure But to the point, I nearly bought the HD coils. From reading other peoples comments, it seemed to me that they rode harsh for a little while but were not problematic. I just figured when I bought my lift I was still going to be a student for another year and wasn't going to be putting anything big and heavy on the front so there wasn't much point. In other words, my bushings were dead and needed replacing, I wanted to do all my suspension at once, and at that time road manners mattered more than a tad bit of extra lift I plan on putting spacers in the front at some point in the future to level out the truck though. Last comment, the added load capacity of the rear OME922s is great I had a little over 600kg of broken concrete in the back of my truck shortly after instaling the new springs. The back fenders were still sitting a good 1.5" above the tire and it rode like a champ. I was very happy but a bit concerned about getting clocked in the head by a bit of concrete if I had to brake hard.

Fair enough. I latched on to the examples that 5523Pathfinder gave and was largely responding to those, but you make a very good point.

But what are they going to scam in this situation? All their doing is getting people to sign a release waiver for their videos, which effectively gives them (whoever that may be) free license to do what they want with the video. Unless there are clauses hidden in the contract, the worst that could happen is they get "scammed" into allowing someone else to use their video. There are no bank account numbers, payments, or promises to pay or recompense involved. I still think the email sent out looks amateur hour, and my gut reaction is the marketing firm gave the job to an unsupervised intern to complete. I'm not in marketing, but I've worked in several public accounting firms, and if I sent an email even closely resembling that to a client or potential client (or anyone for that matter) I would have been skinned alive.

ABS brake motor is in the back passenger side of the engine compartment, bolted to the firewall. To be honest, I don't know specifically what it does, I speculate it would power the solenoids, but I'm not really sure.

Pretty cool, but I'm surprised at the lack of professionalism employed by the lady. Stupid marketers, you would think they would know better than to use a multitude of exclamation points and write it as though it is an email to their friend if they want to convince people of its genuineness.

I got the OME923s, the MD ones that RockyRoad still lists as being HD. The reason I decided to go MD is because I'm still running a stock bumper and will be for the foreseeable future. The HD springs are simply stiffer, and as I only do some mild wheeling and exploring on occasion with my truck being mostly on the pavement, I also do not see the point in having a harsh ride for little gains. I'm glad with my decision, the 923s ride very nice. I did not measure how much lift they actually gave me, but my opinion is that any slight lift gained by going with the HDs over the MDs is not worth it. While running 31s I simply just don't get the ground clearance to take my truck a lot of places that many other trucks can, and an extra 1/4 inch wouldn't help it. I would say your determining factor should be whether or not you intend on adding significant weight to the front of your truck. If you're going to install beefy skid plates and an aftermarket bumper, definitely get the HDs, if you're going to continue with the stock bumper, the MDs will serve you well and ride quite nicely.

Why bore a 3.0 to 3.3L? Wouldn't it be cheaper to just buy a 3.3 block?

Oh and looking great

Awesome, thanks I was fairly sure of that (I've been driving it anyway...) but it's still nice to hear someone confirm it

I've been driving on duratracs since June I believe and they've been great; handle really well in everything I've put them through.

anyone??

Hey all, Last night the pathy developed a new problem. After the truck had sat for a couple of hours, I turned it on and the ABS light came on, and the ABS motor began to run constantly whether the truck is on or off. The only way to stop the ABS motor from running was to disconnect the battery. Today I pulled the fuse for the ABS motor in order to stop it from running. I have two questions: 1) I understand the ABS system won't work with the fuse pulled, but the brakes should otherwise work correct? Everything is shut down for a few days and I won't be able to get it fixed until next week but I need my truck. 2) What could be causing this? I talked to my brother who was a service advisor for a couple years and he had never heard of the problem before. Note: My brake fluid level is 2/3 of the way between the Minimum and Maximum levels, so it's not because I'm short on brake fluid. I have no leaks in the brake fluid system as far as I know as the level has not changed in several years except due to brake wear and then my subsequent replacing them. Thanks everyone! I need my truck to get around but want to make sure I won't kill myself or anyone else in the mean time. Cheers, Allyn

From what I read, best gains without reworking the block come from aftermarket cams. The second best upgrade seems to be putting in a VG33. Check out the "Project Pathfinder" magazine articles here: http://www.motoiq.com/magazine_articles/articletype/categoryview/categoryid/80/project-nissan-pathfinder.aspx They built up their tow rig pathfinder for power and fuel economy. They initially did cams, headers, intake, and I think ECU, but in the end then swapped in a vg33, ported the heads, bored over and put in cylinders from an infinity. But give it a read anyway, the last four or five articles are about getting more power.

BFG ATs, while they have the snowflake symbol on them, aren't very good snow tires to begin with. In the long run a good set of snow tires will give you better performance in snow than any locker. I don't have a welded diff, but I've heard from many people that welded in the snow is not a good idea unless it is very deep snow. And regardless of whether you're in the snow or any other situation, a locked front will result in very poor steering. I'd say get some better tires and don't put your foot down so hard on the skinny pedal. If you're still having trouble and you're not in a foot or more of snow you're doing something wrong. I'm basing this on driving my pathfinder stock in 20-30 cm of snow with only Toyo snow tires and not really having any troubles. With more snow I could see how you'd begin to have troubles however.

I found that the amount of ATF fluid the Haynes manual says to use is wrong, as I put in the correct amount but it was definitely too full. That or I measured wrong, but don't often make that sort of mistake. Either way if you're changing the fluid and filter in your AT, don't just dump all the fuel in, add it incrementally and check the level in case the Haynes manual (should you be using that as a guide) is wrong.

There is an overflow on the actual transmission. When I was doing a roadtrip last summer I had to stop because my truck was pissing transmission fluid everywhere. When I had it checked out their diagnosis was there was nothing wrong with it, so it must have been overfilled and when I got it super hot going over a mountain pass it spilled out the overflow. I'd driven it for over a year with that amount in it though.

Short version is the chances of the CV shaft breaking due to running for an extended period are slim to none unless you've been doing lots of stupid stuff with it or doing a lot of offroad driving. My brother worked for a local Nissan dealership for a few years and through him I've gotten to know the service manager there. He's been the service manager for a couple years, and prior to that was a tech for 25 or so years. Anyhow, in the Spring of 2008 I had a mechanic point out that my CV boot was torn. I was doing 60+ hour weeks so didn't have the time (or energy) to do anything about it. Fast forward about 6 months, I took it in to get replaced. I told my friend that I'm now a poor student and would like to avoid replacing the shaft, and would just like to replace the boot. He told me that Nissan policy is to always replace the entire shaft, but that in his entire career he'd never actually seen a CV shaft broken. If they get fskced up enough they'll start to make an audible clicking sound when you turn, but he's had clients who have been driving like that for extended periods and still never had an actual failure. Anyway I just replaced the boot and over two years later still no problems, and I drove across province and all around the rural interior during spring thaw and did some mild wheeling with the boot torn. Of course it's different if you abuse it or are hard on it, but if you're just doing mostly road driving torn boot doesn't mean much, they're stout little joints and will give fair warning before they actually go.

I wouldn't pay that to put a diesel into an R50...you could buy something else in diesel for that... A problem to consider is that it's still fairly common in China for manufacturers to produce unauthorized knockoffs. I had to do a little paper on this a couple years ago, it generally relates to the production of motorcycle engines, medication, and that sort of thing. What happens is plants either acquire the designs and produce without authorization, or plants that produce the parts/engine normally will pull extra shifts unauthorized by the company. The problem is that in these cases there is no or little product control. In something like an engine, that can be bad if the quality of the materials is lacking (inferior steel) or things aren't built exactly to specifications. Anyway I generally don't mind buying cheap Chinese @!*%, but only for things where I won't be crushed if they break. Personally, I wouldn't spend ~$4500 to import an engine. You could get a crate LS3 for the same amount.

I'm just a little daft is all