Zibi

I said leaves generally don't flex as well as coils because they don't. Yeah, using good products with a good design can have great results from both leaves and coils. But many stock leaves flex like a &^%*ing rollerskate. And for the sake of argument, I'm sure I could find a few thai hookers who don't have STIs, doesn't mean I'm going to take that as a good reason to dip my twinkie indiscriminately. Exceptions always exist but they don't speak for the entire sample.

If you're going to do an SAS you might as well link the front. Yeah you could easily justify leaves, but they generally flex like @!*%. You'll also have to look into building a front cross member to support the front of the leaves, and given the unibody construction I wouldn't be very confident with how strong that would be tying into the subframe that far forward. The subframe only extends far enough to support the engine as far as I can tell. Might be possible but would require research, whereas if you were to link it like tmorgan initially did it's a tested setup.

The reason more haven't been done is because while the R50 is a very capable offroad rig, it's lack of frame and stock IFS mean it is much harder (and therefore more expensive) to do significant suspension modifications to. Cherokees may also be unibody, but they come stock with a solid front axle and upgrading them is therefore simply a matter of modifying an existing suspension setup. Any rig that has a frame is much easier because you are guaranteed a solid setup so long as you are attaching suspension components directly to the frame (and the frame is in good condition). tmorgan has showed that it is not only possible, but also relatively easy to do a SAS on an R50, but because of the deterrents very few people have previously done them. It's a lot harder to completely design a suspension setup when you have little to no reference material or examples of successful previous attempts.

Do the third option, which is what my parents did. Tell your kids to be quiet and roll down the windows.

I could put them in, they fit fine, I just don't. No need for them and they're already cracking with age, plus I'd likely just lose them at some point when taking out the benches. and jeenyus, thats easy to say when you aren't face to face with a full grown grizzly Big as fskc, they can run, swim, and climb faster than you. Having said that I'm more worried about cougars in the bush, just because they're sneaky bastards. But I'll still @!*% myself if I ever find myself between a bear and her cub.

Not propane, he's talking about liquid fuel used in older coleman stoves and lamps. Used to use white gas in ours, but that was a long time ago and I was too young to know what that was.

I did something similar a while back. Not really sure why I bothered with a grade 8 bolt though

Stop defending the handicapped kid, he's a just like the rest of us and can look after himself. Or at least he will have to try and look after himself if he doesn't want to go nappy.

I'd like to know too, a couple places here are doing a 4 for 3 sale and I need new rubber. I don't doubt the sale has something to do with the lawsuits but still nice to know.

Those look great, I'm looking at doing my suspension this fall and am still quite interested in at least he regular ones, if not the flex joint.

sexy work man It'll be nice to see that thing out rolling when it's all done. Maybe if it ever ends up at any bigger events it'll inspire some more talented fabricators to build up an R50 which can only be good for the community.

Try removing the floor mat, maybe the floor mat bothers you. Does it matter what shoes you wear? A lot of things can make your foot uncomfortable. I've driven my 96 for 12 straight hours and been fine except for some cramping, and other days my foot is uncomfortable because I'll be wearing certain shoes. Like the other dude said I also drive with my seat all the way down and all the way back, I'm 6' and wear size 12s. But I was being serious to an extent, pathfinders aren't big trucks and depending on how you're built you might just naturally not find them comfortable. I'm comfortable in mine but I've got the seat all the way back and down and I'm fairly average height and build for a North American (and I don't drive like a "G"). My cousin drove it a couple times however and he's 6'5" and well over 300lbs and with absurdly large feet and he was jammed in like a sardine...he didn't bitch about it but thats because he's a rendeck and way too manly to every complain about driving, though I could tell. Anyway the fix is just common sense...there are a million variables in something like this, it's not exactly rocket science. Move your seat, move your shoes, move your floor mats, if nothing helps then the driver position in the pathfinder obviously just isn't suited for you.

Go buy a truck that wasn't designed by men with size 5 feet.

Yeah in order to clarify that I'm not an egotistical dick, I was just arguing from the perspective of a noticeable improvement in mpg. I don't argue the fact that the bottom of our pathies don't exactly resemble a lambo And I was also waiting for someone to continue to argue with me so I could pull out my witty response, but since no one will, "I don't believe in god either, anyone want to try and sway my opinion on that one?"

Whatever, I've run my truck with the stock plastic skids, full AC skids, and currently with no skids, and have never noticed any difference in the mileage I get between them. I've had friends who put spoilers on their cars and would argue to the end that it helped the handling, but they don't either. I still highly doubt that any improved airflow you would get from your aluminum skids over the stock ones would be negligible, especially in terms of mileage. But arguing on the internet is silly. If it makes you happy then I'm happy for you.

I have no skidplates on my truck right now, stock or otherwise, so yes I have seen the bottom of my truck numerous times both on and off a lift. do you understand how aerodynamics work? think about a pickup truck. You'd think "oh hey, that big tailgate must act as a massive &^%*ing sail", but they don't. Maybe the underside of a pathy does cause drag. I have no doubt I could be wrong. Or maybe the highly paid designers at nissan know what they're doing when the style a vehicle. Just the idea of skidplates and the weight they carry adding any kind of noticeable improvement to mileage is as silly as a ricer owner truly believing that his cold air intake makes his civic a racecar.

I think that something else caused the improvement in mpg and you're just trying to find justification for the skids There is no physical reason why the addition of skidplates would improve wind resistance on a modern vehicle designed in a wind tunnel.

get bigger bump stops, problem solved. But you're right though, at full compression tires would potentially rub as much as they would at stock height. How often are you going to be fully compressed though? Most people are looking for how much rubbing they'll get in average driving or lighter wheeling considering very few people actually push an R50. What you can do with 32" tires and 3" of lift without major body damage isn't particularly hardcore wheeling.

not sure, I drive an R50, I have a macphereson strut up front. I don't know about aftermarket parts but as far as I know the nissan factory control arms will come with the bushings already pressed in. Just phone the nissan parts desk and ask, they'll be able to tell you for sure.

I just had the exact same problem, it was the ball joint. Rock the front of the truck from side to side and see if you can hear a knocking sound. Better lift it and move the tire, vertical lateral movement is generally a ball joint, horizontal movement is bushings. If you're doing the bushings probably better off buying a new control arm with the bushings already pressed in, as pressing bushings is something you can't generally do at home.

Look up one post.

All the problems I described above were because the transmission was in limp mode and running only in 3rd gear. I talked to my brother (who used to be a nissan service rep) and looked it up in the nissan repair manual and it pretty much describes word for word what my problem was. I still have absolutely no clue what caused it to go into limp mode though, but I'd guess it would have something to do with the trans oil slowly leaking and the slight burnt smell of the trans oil.

Thanks guys, I'm leaning towards electrical too. This morning when I started it to go to work the OD light flashed for about 10 seconds and then went off, and it's been perfectly fine all day. Almost as though nothing ever happened. Fluid level is fine, fluid colour is fine, not sure about the filter as I didn't do the last fluid change on the transmission which was about 9 months ago. I did notice a bit of fluid on the ground when I pulled out this morning which would be a new symptom as my truck has never really leaked anything before.

I'll start by saying that it's pretty late and I haven't really had a chance to fully explore this problem yet in daylight... So the back story is I went downtown tonight. My truck was driving fine on the way down, I left it parked for 3 or 4 hours, and when I went back to drive home the transmission started acting weird. It feels very sluggish, I don't get any real power until about 2500 RPM and it sounds and feels like something is slipping up to that point. The transmission will not shift into overdrive, driving on the freeway home I was doing about 80-90km/h and it was running at around 3500-4000 rpm when it would normally shift into overdrive. It also won't downshift when you drop the pedal, generally leaving a light if I want to floor it it'll rev way up and I'll get tons of power, now it just revs up around 3000rpm while I gradually gain momentum. Reverse does still work, though the shift was a bit rough. The shift from 1st to 2nd has been a bit hard when it's cold since I bought it in November 2007, but not enough to cause any type of serious concern. The truck does rev through to redline in neutral so I'm sure it's transmission related. It has about 230,000KM on the transmission and there has been no work on it to my knowledge. I have it's entire service history and I'll look through that tomorrow to double check. I'm a bit confused because there was no event to my knowledge which triggered it; it worked perfectly fine when I parked it, and I am fairly certain nobody tampered with it while it was parked because everything else is fine. Any advice would be appreciated before I talk to a family friend who happens to be a local nissan service manager on Monday. I'd like to be informed before I get shafted on potentially unnecessary repair bills.

I think pathy is asking 2gs for it, not sure you'd get 2gs for whats leftover Then again I'm a retard.