Zibi

Yeah both of mine are all mashed in. I really wanted to cut out the rockers and weld in some thicker steel reenforced to the subframe...basically built in sliders, but I don't have the money or the balls to do it. Instead I think I'm just going to por15 them since my truck is already black

The next page in that link shows them plumbing it to the airbox. IMO they made it a lot more complicated than they need have in terms of plumbing it. I mean they trimmed the fins on the side of the airbox, cut a nicely shaped hole, fabbed a special side plate....why didn't they just remove the airbox and run another 6 inches of pipe directly to the intake? Anyway a snorkel is one of the easiest and most cost effective mods you could do. I've seen a lot of guys construct them out of PVC piping for a nominal amount of money.

You're not kidding. I live in fskcin Canada, yet every few days there have been shootings. Most gang related violence per capita in Canada here. As per the cops here for VI type things, they generally don't care. I haven't had mudflaps in almost a year or a rear bumper for the last 6 months. I also drove for about 8 months with no tail pipe, and the last month before I got it replaced it was so rusted out I was essentially running no exhaust (the whole system came off in about four pieces once removed from the hangers. The cops here only care if you have a seriously modified rig, as in big tires and 6-12" of lift. May long weekend or other like holidays they'll set up roadblocks near well known trails and issue VIs to anyone that might remotely be violating the MVA. I've been pulled over for speeding and the cops didn't care about anything wrong with my truck or registration at the time...no mudflaps, no tailpipe, burnt out corner light, truck was still registered to a small town I hadn't lived in for 6 months (different type of registration). Just gave me a speeding ticket and I was on my way. Granted my truck is completely stock otherwise. Note though that I also wouldn't drive my truck on any interior highway here where I'd kick up rocks. Thats not because I'm scared of getting a ticket, it's because I'm not an asshole and don't want to cost someone a winshield.

If you don't want to pay for a full lift you could just add coil spacers, do a forum search there are a few threads on them. The only coil spacers I've seen here are 1" or less and used as a leveling kit. R50 suspension lift kits only raise the front about 2" so some people use coil spacers in conjunction with the new springs. I haven't seen anyone using coil spacers in the rear. Most front coil spacers I've seen seem to go for around $100/pair, and a lot of them are custom made (i.e. not production). Anyway coil spacers as a levelling kit is about the cheapest way to get any sort of lift. Not exactly an economical rig to modify.

If the tires aren't wearing correctly then yeah they could contribute to the problem, but there would be a reason that the tires aren't wearing evenly and just replacing them would only fix a symptom and not the problem. From everything I've read and been told, it's the bushings on the control arms. I have to get mine replaced soon (I don't have any sort of death wobble though, I just checked them when I put my snows on and they've got too much play) so I talked to my brother about it who was a service rep for a local Nissan dealer for a couple years. He said that they generally recommended people just replace the entire control arm (on the front) as they come with bushings pre-pressed in, and pressing new bushings into the old control arms was almost as costly and time consuming as just buying new arms. Then again it's also dealer policy to replace the entire cv axle when just the boot wears out, so maybe someone here can offer better light on the subject.

It would also depend on how wide the wheels/tires will be. From what I've read 3.75" backspacing on an 8" wide wheel is no problem.

er anyway To restate my smartass comment above, I've been thinking lately that doing prerunner style fenders with a susp lift would be a much cheaper way of running 33's, but I haven't really figured out how realistic it is to do on the rear. Prerunner fenders are generally fiberglass, and a lot of runners have had them, but the only ones I've seen in the rear are the older runners with the removable rear where the rear quarters stopped below the rear windows. Regardless it's an alternative to a SFD which I don't have interest in doing to my truck.

Do a 3 inch lift and then cut up your fenders, should be able to fit em

mmm didn't realise they rebadged it when they redesigned it in 99, either way I wouldn't get a newer grand cherokee. The plus side to getting an older XJ or ZJ is that even though they're unibody they came solid axle and have pretty good aftermarket support, especially the XJs. They're a lot cheaper to lift, though what you save in mods you'll pay in mechanical bills. Either way theres a ton of lifted XJs and a few ZJs around here, though I've never seen a lifted WJ. Most people are scared to wheel their pretty newer trucks.

Isn't the 03 runner IFS as well? I like em, but if thats the reason you want to get rid of the r50 would seem rather silly to trade it for another IFS rig. Only big difference would be moving from unibody to on frame. And the ZJ is still a jeep I don't really know too much about them but I know that some ZJs are serious lemons, might be worth researching them a bit further, and also finding out why the zj is so cheap. If you're just looking for a change, I really like toys and would've bought one if there wasn't such a damn premium on them up here. What I personally like about the r50 over the runner is that it is smaller, runner has a lot of bulk.

I'm not trying to dissuade you from it, its just a rather unique goal that I don't understand. I have a good friend who happens to have a fair amount of money, and he likes to spend that money building show cars. But he's not the type to drive them, once they're built he gets bored and sells them and starts a new one. To be honest, I don't understand that either. I love my pathy because it's different, but I can't understand spending that much money to achieve something you could do for significantly less. But I guess if I understood that I wouldn't work as an accountant. Either way, keep the enthusiasm

Why don't you just buy a different kind of truck? You've got really big ideas for a platform that has almost no aftermarket support. tmorgan has done some incredible stuff, but he's obviously a talented fabricator. I mean you're getting into stuff like an expensive SFD which is basically just a glorified body lift for a unibody vehicle (given that a body lift for a common on frame vehicle is quite cheap), swapping climate control systems, dropping in new engines. I could understand it if you had the tools and abilities to do it yourself and were taking it on as a personal hobby, but you're going to end up dropping an assfskc of money for what is essentially going to be a lifted Q45. I work with money so I see it from that perspective, and you're going to end up dropping a lot of money you don't need to. If you want the 3.5 and all the fancy new features, buy a newer pathy or a Q. If you want the diesel, or base to do realistically do radical groundbreaking things to, then buy a WD21 or import a Terrano. I mean I love my R50, but if I wanted to run a diesel with 35s and sufficient ground clearance to run with the big boys then I'd get a cruiser or something similar. Unless you can justify the money, because the stuff you're talking about, and the means by which you intend to do it is going to require a whole lot of it.

I imagine you'll have the same rubbing issues with the 33s and the sfd, since the wheels are still the same distance from the struts. If you're going to buy new rims anyway why don't you just buy them now, mount the 32s on them, and roll like that for a month or whenever you get the SFD looks good @!*% though

Awesome work, they look really good.

If all you want to do is highway driving in the snow you don't need bigger tires. I bought some good snow tires before last winter, drove up to the kootenays, spent the winter up there in the snow. Only once got it stuck and that was on a terrasen pipeline with snow over the bumper. Anyway all that really matters is the quality of the tire, not the size since it's highly unlikely you'll find a road in southern BC wih too much snow for your stock ride height.

I'm not sure you'll get a very wide tire onto a 16x7 rim if thats your intention at all. 8" wide rim seems to be the most common for people running larger than stock tires. I highly doubt you'd want a wider rim than that though unless you want to run really fat tires (11.5+). But again, I'm speaking from minimal experience.

I wouldn't buy a car from anyone, including my Mom, if I knew the service history was that poor. If the CEL has been on for 80k miles some of the initial problems may even have been covered by warranty. When I was looking at Pathfinders I found one '97. It looked really good, test drove it with my brother who was a Nissan Service Advisor and it drove very nice, no noticeable problems other than obviously warped rotors. Took it in for an inspection (the Service Manager introduced my brother to his wife, he's certainly trusted) and there was almost $5000 worth of work that needed to be done. Both CV shafts, suspension all around, brakes all around, the list goes on. Point is you're a little boned. Any truck that has not been serviced regularly, i.e. driven into the ground will most likely cost you more to fix than it would to just buy another used vehicle. I'd suggest a lot of good research and trying to find cheap deals!

I'm not really sure what the stock offset is, though I do know that the rim sizes varied slightly depending on the badging (my LE has different rims from your chilkoot). However most people around here say that if you're going to increase the tire size you should go to a 3.75" - 4" backspaced rim to avoid rubbing on the struts. Any less backspacing and I think they become a problem rubbing against the fenders on the outside. Sorry I couldn't be more help, still running stock rims myself.

To be fair, if I had the wire sitting around I'd probably do the upgrade anyway It's also worth noting that I've been driving with shot exhaust for almost 2 months now and have known that the bushing on my driver lower control arm is going for a month, but my broke ass can't afford to fix either of those right now. So $20 upgrades do add up to this poor bankrupt student.

Don't think I can get that silly American beer up here But in seriousness I'm absolutely dead broke otherwise I would buy them. Maybe if you've still got them in a few months, though I doubt that with how fast I've seen them snatched up in the past.

How big are they, what type of money are you looking for? Without knowing more, I'll give you $8.37, the last 3 beers from this case, and some pocket lint. You have to pay shipping on the beer though.

I just don't see the point in getting hyped about a different vehicle getting a major performance increase. This isn't a generic performance upgrade like slapping a turbo on would be, the performance gain of rewiring is based soley on how poor the stock grounds were. I don't really care how much of a gain Volvo had as that only goes to show that that vehicle came with very poor grounding, it doesn't do anything to show that the Pathfinder would get any sort of gain. So to answer your question, since this is such a vehicle specific upgrade I would accept it as a performance gain when I saw a dyno sheet of an R50 getting some sort of significant power gain. And I would beg to differ, a gain is only worth it when it is cost beneficial. But then again I'm an accounting student.

If you were up to it you could always try to limp it home, but I don't doubt you'd regret that decision if you end up stuck on the side of the road with a completely naded tranny.

You realize this doesn't improve engine performance, it corrects ****** stock grounding. Your gain is only going to be as good as the manufacturer caused a loss. Even if another vehicle got 16hp that doesn't mean it's possible on a pathy.

Porsche sheet metal adds 15hp. Don't tell the ricers.