commodorehat

I downloaded this pdf guide for doing a manual swap a while back because I thought it might be something I try if my transmission goes out. I can't remember where I got it or who made it, but its pretty detailed. https://drive.google.com/file/d/1cOPtf2NZYrmooUEgqyvrg3WlZd0Er9w5/view?usp=sharing

Yeah you are only talking about a .6" difference between the 2 options, and the backspacing with both should put you within the wheel well. So it'll really depend on whether you want a slightly wider stance with -6. The +10s will be closer to stock, which is I think +20.

KYB is your best option for struts. For rear shocks you have some choices depending on what you want to do offroad. You don't NEED extra length with the ~2" lift you'll get with the springs, but if go with a 26" extended shock (stock is 24") then you can still just swap the shock. Anything more you'll have to extend some things (brake lines, etc). The bilsteins above are top of the line and give you that 26". I run KYB Gas-a-justs with my 2" lift, which are a nice ride and relatively inexpensive, but they give the OEM 24" expanded length. I don't do a ton of rock crawling which is where I'd imagine you'd want the extra flex. I think you can still find the ARB N61s if you want to match the springs, which I believe are also 24". See:

Yes. you only have to worry about backspacing clearing your strut plate if your tires are going to be over 31". 265/70r16 is ~30.6". I think you'll tuck with both of those options. tiresize.com has an offset calculator you can mess with to test your options: https://tiresize.com/wheel-offset-calculator/

You generally can do 31's on stock wheel/suspension, though depending on the year and trim you may have to do a small amount trimming to avoid rubbing at full lock. a 2" spacer lift should be fine, though it will put some extra CV joint stress. You'll probably be ok if you keep it mostly on the road, though you can beef them up by using Trackmotive CVs

There's a guy on the Facebook NPORA and R50 Life groups that sells them. get on there and search for Taylor Padiwan

Thanks, Yeah drivers side was salvageable with hose clamps. The passenger side had a a big chunk completely rusted off so I removed them. So far so good. I might replace with a set from the junk yard one of these days

Pulled the heat shieldw and the noise stopped. Now to figure out how to secure them without the rattle.

Thanks for the tip. I'll add it to the list. The linkage to high rpm is interesting to me. A couple of other things that are suspicious are my heat shields are pretty rusted and loose, and my knock sensor has thrown me codes in the past.

I have a 98 pathfinder SE, and recently my car has been making a loud rapid clicking sound (almost like crickets) coming from the engine when I accelerate above 2000 to 2500 RPMs. The car runs fine still, same power and smooth ride. No engine lights. Recently I have been bumping around offroad, so maybe something got loose? Another interesting detail is when I pull the accelerator cable on the engine block I don't hear it. Only when I accelerate with the gas pedal. All my belts are new. I'm planning on doing some work to try to find the issue and was wondering what things I should look at.

Check out this post: I did this on mine and has worked out well.

I appreciate this thread. Just used conduit mounts and bed liner paint to put on a basket I got off of Facebook marketplace. Happy so far with it. It’s on there really good with minimal extra wind noise. Link to a pic (on the Facebook npora group: https://www.facebook.com/groups/NPORA/permalink/10160846826250129/?app=fbl

Bummer. I’ve also seen folk be able to get it off with a more general gear puller like one of these ( not sure the size) https://a.co/d/8e4idf6 harmonic is easier assuming the bolts work but this may get it in a bind

The rear springs will be medium duty (2922). They don't do heavy duty for the rear. Since its lighter in the back the medium springs alone will give you close to a 2" lift. The front springs will be slightly less of a lift (even with heavy duty), which is why some use the "leveling kit" spacers. I've seen people do OME up front with rear land rover springs if they do a lot of heavy towing or weigh the rear down quite a bit. I have the OME setup (without spacers) front and back (HD front 2928 and MD rear 2922) and only have a slight rake when the vehicle is completely unloaded. if I load up the back or throw my bikes on a hitch bike rack, then the truck looks level.

I could not get the amazon aftermarket fobs to work for the life of me (I have a 98 SE), and ended up getting a used OEM fob from ebay. it worked the very first time I programmed it. Amazon may be worth a try if its a bunch cheaper since they have 30 day returns. Here's a link to the ebay company that I got the good fob from: https://www.ebay.com/str/pnwkeys They may or may not have one for your model since they deal in used OEM fobs, but I can vouch that the one they sent me works.

Searching on youtube for nissan r50 strut installation should give you a few pretty detailed diy videos. I swapped my aging/failing oem shocks/struts/springs for an OME/KYB setup (as well as kyb mounts and bearings. It was fairly straightforward. Its much easier if you can get a second person to help you remove the front struts. I used this spring compressor and it was very effective and seemed solid/safe: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01DP2CDJU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I have an R50, but you should be able to find it either by the service manual (link above), or via searching this forum (or google). Here's thread I just found via google:

Anecdotally, I run KYB struts with OME springs and the ride is really nice.

Update: I found the drivers side part with the flare hole on ebay. ihttps://www.ebay.com/itm/185147885526?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=nLfobrrwTwy&sssrc=2047675&ssuid=4yHEB6iNRXG&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY It looks like ebay only has the driver side and rockauto only the passenger (with flare holes), so maybe it'll work out lol. I ordered the rockauto drivers side without flare holes too before I found this so I'll let you know if its the same other than lack of fender hole when I get it (before I return)

Hey y'all. I've got a 98 SE with chrome bumper accents and the front chrome ends have acquired a decent amount of rust over its previous life in the northeast. I've been waiting for something to pop up at my local pick-a-parts but it seems most of the inventory over the last 6 months has either been 00 to 04 r50s, or been the non-chrome versions. Tired of waiting, I went to see what I could grab from the internet. Looking around I see a couple of places have them, but for my model with fender flares, I've been only able to grab the right one. (found it decently priced on rockauto here: https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=700842&cc=1316833&pt=15198&jsn=910) My question is this: I've not found the flared version for the other side online and in-stock anywhere (part# NI1005140 OEM F20250W486), but it seems like the only difference between the fender flare in the non-fender flare version is a small hole in the end to snap the flare onto. The non-flared version is available on rockauto, so I'm wondering if I can get that and then just drill a hole. https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=700828&cc=1316833&pt=15198&jsn=909 Does any know if the hole is the only difference, or are there any dimension or part differences as well? OR does anyone of a line on a place that's selling the left one?

Hey Eric, I appreciate the reply. Yes, agreed. I didn't mention that specifically, but that was definitely part of it. The service manual had me check continuity on various parts of the circuit as well as voltage being supplied when the ignition was on. Basically the compressor runs on 2 circuits, bound by a relay. You have a circuit that has the dual-pressure sensor -> A/C switch -> Fan switch -> ground, and you have a circuit that runs to the compressor -> ground that is only complete when the first circuit completes. The service manual has you systematically check that 1) each circuit has voltage, and 2) that there's continuity between each link. It was only when I found that there was no continuity between the dual pressure sensor and the A/C switch, is when I broke out the short detector and ran it along the wire to find the breakage. It was a good learning experience since I had never dove into electrical issue diagnosis. I know its mentioned a bunch in this forum that has been so helpful to search, but NICO club has the service manuals for pathys. https://www.nicoclub.com/nissan-service-manuals Between that in searching here I've been able to DIY pretty much everything since I bought my R50.

Just following back up after I found the issue... It was a bad wire between the dual pressure switch and the A/C switch. By walking through the service manual diagnosis steps for a compressor clutch not engaging, I narrowed it down so that I knew there was something fishy between the dual pressure switch and the A/C switch. From there I ended up getting a cheap short detector from amazon and ran it along the wire harness that runs between dual pressure back to the dash A/C switch, and found the spot where the signal drops. Turns out the harness was damaged there. I must've accidentally cut it on some previous work. Here's the short detector... it worked pretty good for the price: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07BC4X28Y?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details My advice for DIY A/C diagnosis is to follow the service manual steps. They were systematic and worked pretty well for me in diagnosing the electrical problem.

So I went the AC Switch route and I think there's something fishy between the dual pressure switch and the A/C switch. The switch itself has continuity, but there is not full continuity between the switch harness and the dual pressure harness (though it does read something, also there should be full continuity between the switch harness and the fan harness and there is not full continuity as well. The A/C switch itself seems fine, I get continuity when the button is engaged and no continuity when not engaged. Is there anything in between the two that could go bad? I tried to get continuity by poking through the wires to eliminate the harnesses, and got the same readings.

So over the winter my A/C stopped blowing cold air on my 98 SE. I'd like to fix this myself and wanted to bounce what I know off of y'all to validate where I'm at. This is what I know for sure so far: Compressor is not getting the power it needs to kick the clutch on (< than 1 volt is going into the connector) A/C Relay is good (swapped it with a known working one, as well as checked the continuity, and made sure it was getting ~12 volts to two of the connections) A/C Fuse is good (swapped it with a working one) Dual pressure sensor is good (checked continuity and verified ~5 volts in/5 volts out) A/C system Pressure is good enough. (I hooked a A/C pressure gauge up and got ~70-80 psi on both high and low on a 70-something degree F day) I've got the nissan service manual (from NICO club) and looking at the troubleshooting steps, maybe the A/C switch is the next thing to check. I also haven't checked the ECM and whether that is outputting power to the right terminals. If I were to dig under the dash, which one would be the first to check? The ECM (on the driver side) or the A/C switch (on the passenger)? Or is there something else I should look at based on what we know? Oh one more thing... Strangely (or not), by accident I was able to engage the compressor clutch from dual pressure sensor harness when I accidentally left the multimeter on continuity and put it in the sensor harness with ground. Did this give it a higher voltage than the 5 I read going through there? Anyways that at least showed me the compressor was capable.

Old thread but I'll put this here for anyone wondering similar. I got a set of 4 universal spring insulators on amazon for 20 bucks and put them on the bottoms of my front springs. I didn't put an insulator on the top because there's a thick rubber seat that's already there. The universals fit and work well. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0C5X9JNH3/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1