nige

welcome to the board

My brother takes his in for Krown treatments every spring and fall. It costs him 120 bucks each time, but his car is spotless! and i mean everywere. He does drive it here and there in the snow, but i'm impressed on how well this stuff works. THey say you can bring the car to them in any (well almost) condition, and this stuff will stop whatever you have. I really want to move south though like H.W.T. told me, but i'd have enough trouble getting a working visa and all the paperwork baloney. I wish that canada owned one of those islands in the caribbean. I really do hate the winter here.

Impressive, most impressive

sabotage the city's salt trucks is all I can think of right now. I swear they go out with 1cm of snowfall. Ontario has THE worst drivers i've ever seen. They also bitch and complain about the road conditions when they need to use thier heads and slow the *my "vocabulary" is so small* down, or get rid of thier bald-hiney summer tires and get some snows. I've spent alot of time underneath with a wire brush and a can of black spraypaint, but it just keeps coming back I though about getting it undercoated, but i'm worried that it'll trap moisture behind any leftover flakes I missed. I just did the spot over the rear wheel last spring and it's holding up pretty good so far. I'm going down to Florida in a few weeks, so maybe I can have it done down there while I sit on the beach, surfcast and drink some coors gold.

you got some pics yet airrun?

here's the results you can expect with AC UCAs I just installed them on my tk. I got them from 88pathoffroad, and he was nice enough to stick in some zerk fittings for me. This is with stock torsion bars too. The alignment in the front is still off a little bit, but from my experiences, it's dam near impossible to get it perfect with sus. lifts. 3" lift If this one wasn't so cheap, i would have gotten the calmini parts

I use 5W30 in the winter and 10W30 in the summer. No fancy sythetics, just check it and change it often.

When that happened, I would always put my old car into 2nd gear, then first gear before i took off from a light. Dunno why, but it always did the trick for me. Similarly, I would shift into first gear first, then into the reverse gear when backing up too.

When i turn on the vents it reaks like old coolant. The levels are remaining steady, but when you turn the fan to 4 on full heat, it takes forever to warm up and it smells like the coolant reservoir. This began happening after a really cold night. Would a flush an fill be the remedy?

sofa king cool sw, glad it worked out well for you! Now you can REALLY slay the sand dunes gj gj gj :cool2:

Here are the before/after shots: Rear view -pre lift Rear view -post lift Front -pre lift Front -post lift Rear -pre lift Rear -post lift Here are the parts I used c/o 88pathoffroad UCA's (Automotive Customizers -keep the comments to yourself 88 And the rear coils, again c/o 88path, are Calminis. You can see them in the prev. photos. here's a front shot too: The front end feels alot more secure, and responsive after the T-Bar reindex, while the rear is a little stiffer. The body roll has been cut down despite the increased height, probably because my old springs were very saggy and beat. Overall, i'm pleased with the upgrades, yet i'd still like to figure out a way to get more height out of the back.

I finally got the t-bars reindexed and the front alignment, but not before having to put in 2 tie rod ends and a new lower balljoint. I also did the CV boots as they were both cracked. The one joint has some minor rust on it, but it doesn't make any racket when I put it in 4wd. THe front end went WAY up, and now it has the stance of a baja truck. Do any of you have any ideas on how I can squeeze a little more lift from the rear? The spare tire carrier weighs the back down, and the shocks may be at the end of their travel. I was thinking about trying some thicker coil spring isolators instead of buying new shocks. I picked up some urethane jobs from energy suspension, but I don't think they make them any taller than what I got. O.K. here's a side view, post lift: here's a shot of the rear axle: and the front end just for kicks: These are the spring seats I used: Along with a link to the page (the thickness of "D" doesn't vary anymore than 1/4") http://www.energysuspension.com/pages/sboots.html Don't you love what road salt does to cars?

You might want to get new tires after the sus. and b-lift. Even 31" 'ers look puny and weak after that much lift.

i should snap a shot of them installed so you can see how good they look. Gimme a day and i'll get one for you guys to see

It took me all of about 15 minutes this time. The coils game my brother's truck about 2.5 inches (95 4 dr. SE w/ spare tire carrier). The coils worked great 88, although I had to modify the spring isolators to fit inside the top coil, but as soon as I jacked the axle up, they popped right in. THANKS! :cool2:

ew.

I play a lot of counterstrike when i have spare time. Day of Defeat once in a while too. Anyone else play and online games here?

I had no trouble installing my rear coils with new p/u isolators. I had a friend to wedge a piece of wood in to pry the axle down so i could slide the new coils in. It's easier if you set the top of the coil in place first, then work the bottom in. You might need to use a prybar, but it's not likely.

Well I finally got all the parts on. I went with the calmini coils in the back because they fit the energy suspension coil spring isolators perfectly, and i'm happy with the result. I got a solid 2 inches on the rear end. The AC UCA's went well, although the new upper ball joint bolts don't fit perfectly into the 4 holes (the holes were a little big in diameter) and this is leading me to question how well i'll be able to get the front end aligned after this. So I went to reindex the T-bars, but I ran into a litte trouble. I loosened off the adjuster bolt to take the tension off the bar, but I'm having difficulty figuring out how the adjuster separates from the actual t-bar. I was thinking about removing the front part circled in red, but i'm unsure as to what it will do. So in the meantime, i've just cranked the adjuster as far as it'll go (the bolt is nearly touching the bottom of the body) but I know they can be cranked more to offset the "hotrod stance" my truck is currently sitting at. So i'm looking for a little guidance from anyone who's done this before. My household jack and stands are super ghetto so i'll have to take the truck back to a friendly mechanic who lets me use his hoist and tools. So when all is said and done and i'm happy with the front end, i will post some before/after pics. Thanks guys esp. 88pathoffroad for the parts

read this again

welcome

I think that's the most times I've read the word 'nipple' in a non-sexual article.

yeah, mick all I have to work with is my truck and my mum's 2002, which has a lovely little dial to turn to engage the front diff, so I'm of no use to you. I could ask my uncle who had a 1998 for a few years and he might be of some use. I'll try to get back to you on this.

Take a good look underneath at the frame and make sure it's not corroded. The body is easy enough to fix corrosion, but the frame is very important too. Besides that it sounds pretty good. Post a couple pics for us to see if you want second opinions. How does the exhaust manifold look? that's a common problem with these trucks. Make sure you get to start it COLD, because the seller may already have warmed up the truck before you got there to check it out. Never underestimate the sneakyness of sellers. I did and it cost me 700 bucks

I never do the 'shift on the fly' into 4wh. I come to a complete stop, neutral, pull the lever to 4wh, then slowly pull away. To get it back into 2H, i come to a complete stop, neutral, shift the lever to 2H, then go into reverse for a few feet, then fowards. I've never ever had any trouble/wierd clunks or noises doing it that way. The little 4WD light goes out immediately. That's the way my father taught me to do it and he's been driving trucks forever.