nige

may be a dumb question but did you gap your plugs before installing them? They are never good right out of the package. I think it's supposed to be .33" -- .35" or something like that.

yeah ditto, i use the NGK's too. They're supposed to burn hotter than any other plug, plus they're cheap

it's on the outside housing of the muffler. Not out of the tailpipe, nor from cracked flanges leading into or out of the muffler. I know the truck isn't burning coolant, so I seriously doubt it's something as major as a cracked head. It's not doing it today so it may have been some condesation on the muffler and for some reason it turned green when reacting with the metal. Who knows. I'm in florida right now and maybe that's what it does to everyones car. Nevertheless, i'm going to the beach talk to you later.

I was waiting for someone to say that hahahah I wasn't gonna be the first that's for sure -alcohol-

Well this morning it was only a couple of drops, so I don't think it's anything major. The coolant level has remained the same so i figure it's just condesation on the muffler. I just don't know what causes it to turn green.

It's not comning out of the tailpipe, it's more so condesation on the outside of the muffler. I checked the pavement again this morning and nothing... The coolant level is fine and the engine doesn't blow the white smoke associated with burning coolant so I doubt that a cracked block is the culprit. I'll still keep poking around for leaks. b.t.w., it's sunny and 23 c in sarasota right now

looks good pickles. I see it's worth all the sweat

I went out this morning and saw a small puddle (egg yolk size) of coolant underneath the truck. Upon closer inspection, it seems as though it's coming off the muffler -?? I checked all the hoses around the radiator and tried to have a peek at the underside of the body above the muffler, but i cant locate the source of the leak. I have been in the south here for 4 days now, but I don't think the drastic temp change would have anything to do with it. Does anyone have any advice or other areas of the cooling system I could check that might be the culprit of this leak?

I got the amps bypassed, the new deck is a HUGE improvement over the stock deck/amp setup. The sound is much clearer and sharper. It gives very good sound using the stock speakers, i'm much happier with this setup. I'll have some pictures when I get back from vacation. Anyone know of any good fishing spots around bradenton, fla?

gj airrun, i can totally notice a difference.

I've got my new deck installed in the car, now i'm onto bypassing the stock amps. I've gotten them out of their cubby hole, but i haven't been able to find any information on what to do next. I'm not a genius when it comes to installing these things (i've only done 2) and this is looking pretty confusing... what wire do I connect to what to bypass these amps? I'm almost ready to rip the whole $hit out and just run new wires to the speakers. Are there any sites I can get this information from? (colour codes of wires on the factory amps)

0.o those look comfy! Can you get ones with heaters?

you'll be fine with the tire, and yes, the bolts will rub on your tires when your suspension is compressed.

I think the manual and automatic both bolt to the same transfer case.

you could also take your v.i.n. to a Nissan dealership and see if there is a repair history on their database. I took mine in and learned it had a new engine and rear diff. at 30 000 kms. If your truck is making the 'ticking' noise associated with broken studs, be sure to check the flange between the manifold and 'y'-pipe --that's where mine was screwed rather than the manifold studs itself. They will both make the same noise.

lookin' good meing!

i did the balljoints by myself, but i didn't know about the bad tie rod ends, i just let the mechanic do them when I learned I needed new ones while he was aligning it. The coils were really simple to do because I took the truck to an audi/vw mechanic i met through my parents. He let me use his hoist and big jack, so the job went really easy. THe installation of the A-arms took a little more effort because I kept running into bolts that were rusted solid. The spindle mounting bolts were the toughest ones. I never was able to do the t-bar index by myself with my tools, so I opted to bite the bullet and take it to the mechanic for that. I'd like to do a small (2") body lift this spring, but I have a feeling that the job is going to be pretty tough without more knowledge and help. There isn't anyone in my town who's done one of these before, so it would be completely fresh for any of us. I suppose some of the jeep guys in town would know how to do it.

thaks, you're such a sweetheart

They seemed pretty sturdy and snug to me... It may have been the new bushings that aaron put into them. The alignment is still off a little (pulls to the left) the mechanic told me that after reindexing the t-bars, it's quite difficult to get it perfect, so i guess i'll have to put up with the odd sterring correction on a level road.

yeah, for once i'd like to go out there without the intent of coming home after a snowboarding trip. i love it out there :cool2:

so what type of car/truck are you getting next?

my tires are at 13-15 psi right now. The rear only slides when i give'r and it's slushy out. No slippage on hardpack snow whatsoever. Just remeber to pump 'em back up if you go for a long drive on a dry highway, or it'll screw you for gas milage.

Is it your first Pathfinder? I wouldn't concern yourself with milage too much. Mine has gotten up to 180k and it still purrs like a kitten -----stuck in a fanbelt

yeah, I really liked the front bump-bar you made for it. I'd like to make a duplicate if you have a design for it.

yes because you need a $110 000 MB suv to do that... welcome to the forums. Any reason for having so many pathfinders? most of us keep the same on for at least a few years.