nige

welcome to the forums!

welcome to the forums take some pics and post 'em too I would suggest getting some nice tires for your first upgrade

yes, what everyone else says get some new shoes! something with bite too.

ok, i put about 1/3 of a bottle of lucas in with the fresh oil, and i got about 3 little bottles of old oil out of the engine. I'll have to check next time I change it to see if it burned less.

well i have to change the oil today, so i'm gonna try some of the lucas oil stabilizer. I'll let you know if it makes a big difference over a simple oils and filter change

velcome myes pics!

where are the pics?? ya got any?

welcome the forums

welcome back then

welcome to the forums, post a pic when you get the chance

ahoy-hoy

yeah that might work, i used that stuff to patch up a hole in my boat last year. Although i'm not sure how to spread it out so it looks nice. That stuff is very goopey.

i like to adjust my passenger light (left side for sw) off to the side a little bit to light up the shoulder of the road. It gives me a little bit better visibility at night when i'm driving down country routes with my eyes peeled for deer

welcome to sie forums. where ya from?

i'm contemplating taking the flares off. THe truck looks a little burlier without them. Maybe put them back on after a lift and those 33" MTR's i constantly dream about

As per the common problems and fixes thread, my truck ran into the same problem. I should have done this last season, and I was lucky it never went completely through the metal. It would have been a lot less work. Anyhow, here's what to do if your fender looks like this: First, remove the fender flares if applicable. I had to use a grinder on some of the bad stuff. Then begin to sand down the affected area until you get to bare metal. I used a sandblaster and it saves a whack of time. I applied a coat of naval jelly in case there was some residual oxidation anywhere. The area should look like this: If the rust was particularly bad like mine, slap some filler or putty on, let it dry, then sand it smooth like so: After than is finished, you are ready to prime the area. Sand the primer until it is as smooth as possible, finishing on 600-grit. Then apply a fresh coat of paint. I took my truck to my friend's shop to have it done. You can blend in the new paint with a 600-grit wetsand. After that, use a polishing compound and finally apply a fresh coat of wax. This should keep the rust gremlins away for a little while. Has anyone found a paint which has some rubber compound to resist the scratching from the OEM fender flares? I have a feeling that sand between the body and flare is responsible for this problematic area.

yeah, it sounds like you have sloppy-a$$ tie-rods. Mine would wander and require constant input to keep it straight until i replaced them. Make sure you get an alignment afterwards or you'll ruin your tires

so you just pour a can of that stuff in with your next oil change?

I wouldn't bother with the ecu. It does gain hp, but at the expense of increased wear and tear other parts of the truck. Here's a link with some more info about them: linky The best way to squeeze a little more juice from these trucks is to make sure your engine is in good running order (tuned). A simple plug, wire, rotor and cap replacement can make a definite improvement. The K+N air filters help out, and like the borla outfit you already have, there are a few good aftermarket exhaust systems and headers available. Remote oil and transmission coolers keep the engine and tranny protected from heavy duty work like towing and hillclimbs. Electric fans like the one 88pathoffroad has installed reduce parasitic drag on the engines, freeing up a little more power. Just spend some time searching through the various threads. The little 'assistant' link in the top right of the board page has a good search feature to help you narrow down the topics. As for clutches, centreforce is a good brand. Here's another link for a different brand : Borg Warner Even the UAP NAPA clutches are a good buy.

welcome to the forums

sweet, another person from southern ontario. welcome

the sensor cost me 80 bucks and about another 60-70 to put it in. Most shops will just charge you a full hour of labor to install the part. The threads on my old one were pretty mangled so I imagine the mechanic had a fun time getting it out. I just payed him with a box of beer and everyting was said and done.

i couldn't even budge mine with a bar and everything. I ended up having to take it to a shop. My exhaust pipes are in really bad shape, so it was really in there. I'm at the point where i need to replace all the pipes before winter hits, or I risk the chance of them breaking off

hahahaahhahaha that's true

lol, that works well until you get enough cash to fix it. I thought mine was going too, and when i went in to have it checked out, it turns out the gasket between the mani and y-pipe flanges had blown out. If it is the mani, make sure you get the revised studs put in.