nige

we call 'em bunny bars around here :Magic:

ahah shut up, i looked! thanks again

i'm contemplating letting a shop do this for me. There shouldn't be much of a charge for labour and the part is about 70 canadian loons. I remeber there was a thread with pics showing this, but i searched and cant find it. poo

oooo got under with a wrench and i cant even budge the sensor. I doused it in oil, waited another 6 hours, doused it some more and tried again... still no luck. I thought about heating or cooling the metal, but all i have access to is a propane torch and some liquid co2. Has anyone attempted what i'm thinking about?

oooooooooo i'm getting all hot-n-bothered just looking at it

78 cents/litre here in waterloo over the weekend

ditto

excellent, spankyou very much

Meh, they sold me the wrong sensor.... where is that sensor located that gives me the code 33? my haynes manual gives me useless photos and the datsun parts guy had no idea

beat ya to it 88! i got a new bolt, drilled out the old nut and threw it in: sound as a pound! Now i'm onto the temperature sensor, but having difficulties locating the right one.... I got a code 33 of the ecu, and the datsun dealer gave me a new sensor which he claims is the right one. I thought it goes into the manifold, but he said it goes somewhere on the block. I'll throw out the part number anyhow and let me know if any of you have installed this one.. 22630-51E02 ???

boooo! the receiver nut welded onto the other side of the bracket on the lower link is *gasp* stripped! oh well, now i have to tear the hub off to get a grinder in there and locate a new nut... this is turning out to be another chapter in the book of p.i.t.a. all this to put a bolt in for the strut -sheesh oh well back to work!

lol

what's up meing!

I got new shocks and balljoints installed a few months ago, and there is still a rattle from the suspension, so I crawled underneath to have a look at the front end and I discovered there's no bolt holding the bottom of the shock onto the lower link... anyone ever had this problem?? I don't think it could be classified as a 'common' problem for these trucks. I also discovered there's no bound bumper on the lower link either. So either this is common or my mechanic is slower than retarded molasses. Anyone have access to these parts? I don't wanna pay 30 bucks for a piece of rubber on a plate from the local datsun dealer

karma, man remember karma

syncromesh 88offroad? Like my old car, and most other manuals, you would have to put the selector into first gear before putting it into reverse to line up the gears...

a wire coat hanger and pliers works well on heat shields too

A computer controlled clutch? weird... Well it might be the release bearing? I'm not too familiar with the Pathfinder clutches, we've had 3 automatics. If it is a hydraulic clutch, there might be air in the lines too...

When i used to have a mazda miata (my first car) I blew the slave cylinder on the clutch and it did the same sort of thing.... I was starting from a light, shifted to second, third, and stopped at the next light. When i went to put the selector in 1st from neutral again, i couldn't even budge it. I could push the clutch to the floor, but the plates would not release. I got my brother to pull me home with the samurai and got it into the garage. My dad was a grease monkey at my age and he knew exactly what was wrong. The seal in the slave cylinder had been broken and would no longer pump fluid to release the plates. It was the only time that car ever let me down! As long as the manual pathfinders have hydraulic clutches, this might be the problem. The miata's cylinder cost 85 cdn. and it took me an hour to install. If the clutch is cable driven, it may have slipped a little bit and needs re-adjusting.

i've got them installed on mine too. They've been on for the past 3 years and the glue on one of them is starting to let go, but they still stay in place. Great for smokers (if there's any left) in the rain, and nice to let some air in on summer days when there's a chance of rain.

here's my runt!

ahahah gotta love the ears! good giiiirrrrrrrrrl!

right here! i'll see if I can scan this picture of my buddy's retriever that just had a litter of 11! There sooo many pups in the picture. I've got a little badger-buster (west highland white terrier) that I take camping and fishing with me. She's getting on in age (14) but she's still got plenty of juice left in her

i'd be worried if you had a higher perfomance rotor on the back rather than the front, but who the hell would do that? You should be fine with just the fronts. My younger brother put c/d rotors and EBC pads with new calipers on all 4 corners of his 91 mr2 turbo. Cost him a pretty penny, but MAN! does that thing ever stop on a dime -i sh*t you not when I say dime... what a difference. I'm sure it'll have the same effect on our portly 4500 pound trucks if you had a bigger rotor. I've never had to use the brakes enough to experience any fading or gassing off, but i'm sure bigger ones would help when i'm towing the boat around.

hmmmm. sparkies? or possibly wires too. I would check sparkies first. It doesn't sound anything fuel related. Does it stink like gas in the morning?