Frenchy

Understanding the concern you have, most E-Lockers you will find including the Factory E-Locker ground in the Pro-4X Frontier and Titan operate the same way. Also with a E-Locker you simply take it slow. If you become stupid and mash the throttle for no reason then yes you will see something break.

As much as I would like to give a fair update, the Pathfinder was totaled last year(as of today exactly to be honest). I still have the Body Mounts that can be installed on any WD21 or D21, but I haven't been in a hurry to get rid of them. As for the shocks, I can certainly recommend Dobinsons. For the WD21 they only have the GS Twin Tubes for all four corners, but they do ride well when the vehicle is loaded up. If there is no weight, it can be a bit stiff. They also have Coil Springs and Torsion Bars available and a Steering Damper along with a complete suspension Polyurethane bushing kit. It's quality stuff from Australia and worth the money. Just be ready to pay.

Yeah, those "fake" vents are not fake. They are functional and I recommend leaving them be. As for lights I used a old brush guard to mount two driving lights and two fog lights from IPF. They were awesome!

The fuel gauge was simply the sending unit. It is available from Nissan. It is pricey though

Chances are the transmission will be the same. The filter could be different. Chances are the fluid is Matic D. That is still available from Nissan. Personally I would just do the basic drain and fill.

Best advice I can give you is to get a hold of a factory service manual. It will give you all the information you need in order to diagnose this

As much as I will agree with not tightening the bolts too much, I prefer to have Allen bolts with the right size spacer. It makes it much easier to tighten to spec and when done with a basic Allen wrench you can do it by hand with no issues. I did that on a VG33E recently and I feel the results were great.

Converting to manual hubs is pretty easy. I ended up buying a set of the Chinese knockoff factory hubs for a D21 of a similar year and simply took the auto hub off and put the manual hub on. Didn't even have to take the tires off

Might be great opportunity to switch those to manual hubs. Then you'll know when they're engaged and when they're not engaged

Should we no reason that any of the WD21 seat belts wouldn't fit.

Is it going to be quite simple. First unplug your wiper motor. Go to activate it and see if it pops a fuse. If it does follow the harness and go to the next plug. Unplug it. Try to activate the rear wiper and see if it pops a fuse. If it does not you at least eliminated a lot of work of where it could be and now you know where you need to look. Of where it could be and now you know where you need to look.

Unfortunately I can't really attach pictures to this form because it's special. That said if you got an eco club and open up a service manual for a '93 or even a 94 Pathfinder you can find the procedure on how to set this. You'll want to go to the engine mechanical or EM section. Everything you need should be in that. Also keep in mind that cylinder 1 is on the passenger side of the vehicle at the front of the vehicle

If the fuse popped then you have a short in that circuit. Could be a wire or wiper motor

There is no temp sensor that goes there. That might just be a blank hole. For the 93 Pathfinder The temp sensors sit on the coolant outlet tube that goes straight to the upper radiator hose.

Do not bother with the damper. Put it on the slave and all will work out

I will make this easy for you and tell you to get a Speed Bleeder for the Slave Cylinder. The NAPA part number to use is 675-1572. This particular bleeder has a check ball that will close with no pressure and open with pressure when cracked open. Make sure you have a a clear hose and a bucket of sorts for fluid collection. Do that and you will be set.

Not exactly. I went ahead and went to a different platform and got myself into a D40 Frontier. That's a 2012 Pro 4X that's fully loaded and a lot more stuff available for it. 93 Pathfinder.

Unfortunately I never got around to it..... On top of that mine got totaled on the 16th this month all because a Mini Van thought they could make a turn....

All those things do is to press any switches that may be in said place. If you have an automatic chances are it will be for your break and cruise control for the brake pedal. If you have a manual transmission you will obviously have one for the brake pedal for brake lights and the cruise control. You're also going to have one on the clutch pedal for the start switch and cruise control interrupt. If those are not there and the switches are just sticking out cruise control will not be able to activate and/or the brake lights will stay on.

These are used to install. I have installed plenty. Simply push the pedal down for the one you're trying to install. Well holding the pedal down put your little green gumdrop in place and hold it there. Well holding that start to release the pedal until it touches the gum drop. Now you can release the gum drop itself and you can somewhat force that in with the pedal. That is the easiest method I have found

I would keep soaking it in oil and giving it a bunch of heat. You would be amazed on how much that'll work when you're applying both quite often for this kind of thing

That's what I figured. Just wanted to make sure

So it is already a general standard that when towing over a certain amount(2000 lbs I think) that you should have a trailer brake of some sort on the trailer to assist with stopping. Most of the time trailers will have electric brakes instead of hydraulic surge type brakes(like U-Haul). My question is did Nissan ever put a plug under the dash on the WD21'S to make it easier to install a trailer brake controller if one wishes too? Or was that done much later in the 2000's? I ask simply for the fact someone tried to claim there is a plug for it and I was under the impression that you have to tap into wiring and make a custom harness to make it work.

What exactly failed?

Assuming you do have everything disconnected, I would put the nuts back on(just a few threads) and lightly smack the master cylinder with a dead blow hammer(not to be confused with a rubber mallet)from the top and bottom the best you can. Hopefully that should break it loose enough for it wants to come off and then this will help keep it from flying off