FirstGenFreak

I actually have an aftermarket TJM or Safari long range tank from an 86 pathy here I am not going to use, located Central Vic.

555 is the gold standard in my book Japanese quality, I use 555 in my other vehicles as well. I try to find the oldest stock I can, as the earlier stuff is waaaaayyyyyyyy better. The centrelink in my car is a 555 item and is over 10 years old and still pretty good.

The mold will take the corner fine, the mold is actually only a filler and does not provide the seal. You can coat the gap with some black urethane sealant (windscreen sealant or sikaflex) which will prevent warter ingress and keep the mold in place.

Expensive proposition. The hoops need to be removed front the wheel centres and chromed separately, then reassembled and trued.

Booster function won't affect your pedal, in fact a failed booster will give you a rock hard pedal. Sounds like a strange one.

Great to see you're still at it!

This one has a manual choke setup For Nissan Z24 Z20 16010-26G10 16010-26G11 Carburetor | eBay

HI Bill, I have fitted one of these aftermarket carburettors and had no issue. If you don't rely on using your choke you could simply cut the cables off the carb, or you may be able to adapt the manual choke mechanism from your existing carb. Alternatively, you may be able to recondition your existing hitachi carb if the throttle shafts are not severely worn. The Australian WD21s I have owned (all Z24 Carb) have all came factory with an Auto (electric) choke. I currently run a DGV38 weber and don't use choke at all and have had Zero starting issues in Freezing to +45 degrees Celsius).

My bad, I thought it was a WD21, later stuff doesn't exist in my simple mind

Inner or outer CV? You shouldn't hear the CV regardless unless you are driving in 4H or 4L and your hubs are locked. Should not need to interfere with the CV to replace a shocker, but there are some hack mechanics out there.

Well don't leave us in suspense! Did you get her??

Both 4 Cyl 2 door cars...

My Aussie 86 has 6 bolt flanges, and the '89 I had was the same, I am sure because I swapped shafts between cars about 10 years ago. Interesting.

Over here, the base models got silver painted and the ST got Chrome. I sadly threw a minty set out about 12 months ago, although I am too far away regardless.

Process of elimination Fuel - is it getting fuel in cyl 4? Air - valves opening and closing? Compression - Compression test Spark - Have you got spark to your spark plug? Check you leads, ignition timing, spark plugs and coil

That's amazing! We need more guys like this

Awesome buy, that looks great! +1 for 31s, don't go any bigger and keep your wheel offset as close to 0 as possible, helps out longevity of your front end components. Best of luck with her!

Had a fuel pump go on me not long ago, always a fun part of your day. The aftermarket pump then failed a few weeks after, so I replaced it with a working 35yo OEM second hand part, which has given me more confidence

Are your calipers on the right sides? Bleeder should be at the top to eliminate airlocks. Sounds like you have air in your system. Check Caliper orientation, check fittings, re-bleed to ensure all air is out of the system.

They are definitely becoming a rarer sight over here, although rust really isn't a killer over here, they just aren't desirable in the same way a lot of older cars aren't. Car culture (consumer culture?) isn't what it used to be either, it's easier to buy something new than it is to fix or maintain something older. Parts are definitely drying up fast (at least body and trim parts) I have just bought a Dual Cab D22 as a daily driver as we have a 3 month old boy, and want room/access to rear seats and the wife wants me to get rid of the pathy. I am trying to put it onto historic registration which will make it almost free to own. Wish me luck!

Do you all salt your roads over there in the US? I have never seen a WD21 with rust there in 20 years of messing with them.

They are both good tyres in a similar price range. Personally I think you are splitting hairs, buy whichever is available on sale.

I've just got back into looking at this KA conversion. I have tried an early Z24 distributor and oil pump shaft and it fits! The Z24 oil pan also fits! In theory alI would need to run this NA would be a custom intake manifold. It looks like my prayers have been answered: KA24DE Billet intake flange (xcessivemanufacturing.com) These guys make the flanges, DCOE carb flanges and the intake runners. I am pricing it all up and also need to do some measurements to ensure it will clear the (RH Drive) Brake booster. The other option is to spec up either an NA TBI combo, or a mild turbo and aftermarket ECU combo, but I really like the idea of keeping it analogue. See how we go! FGF

Even a heatgun may get you over the line.

I can't speak to your car specifically but in almost every instance personally, a rebuilt OEM exchange unit has lasted far longer than an aftermarket unit.