AlabamaDan

Always..... credit card.

inline filter?

Thanks Astrorami

Nope. I was also thinking while driving that now I can leave the windows cracked when sleeping in the car. That should prevent all the condensation.

Great work. I like the full underbody skids!

How can I tell the gauge of this wire?

That's one option i thought of. The other option is to make a new bracket with a longer foot. Either requires equipment I don't have. But someone may be able to help.

I received the light bar. Here are some initial thoughts. The boxing for shipping was disappointing. It looks like they basically pulled it off the shelf and stuck a mailing label on it. They taped the wiring harness box just to the light bar box and shipped. Definitely not Amazon. Within the box it was bubble wrapped and thankfully, unharmed. Here's a close up of the light bar. I was hoping that each individual led would have a lens, but it doesn't. I guess it's ok. It came with some hardware and brackets. There were no installation instructions, but I assumed these bolts are for the sides of the brackets to attach to the light bar. It's an unusual bolt head and uses a special Allen wrench, which was included. One thing I like about this is that I could turn the brackets around backwards and mount them underneath. The holes for mounting came up at just an inch too much to fit the existing rails. Too bad. It came with a harness. I tried hooking the the wires of the light bar directly to a 12v battery without this special harness. When I did so all I had was on and off with a white light. Three wires from the red control box toward the light bar are around 6 1/2 feet long. It is in a loom and has female spade ends for connections. I was disappointed to find the wires from the led light bar was pretty short and did not have any male connectors to match the wiring harness. The wires from the red control box to the battery are only a foot and a half long, but do have good little rings to connect to the battery. This short wire means that the control box will have to be mounted close to the battery. The red wire from the control box to the battery has a 20amp fuse. The red control box is connected to this little remote control, which it appears could be put on a key ring or attached someplace with the 3M pad. I don't think it would hold up long as a key fob. instructions for mounting were not included, but the wiring harness had some. There ya go, my initial thoughts on my purchase. I can't wait to play with it a little. I've got to figure out how and where to run the wires and mount it. I am going to need some new brackets to mount it to the stock roof rails.

Testing continues and the visors continue to pass with flying colors. Here's a little photo to demonstrate the amount of rain we had last night. Pay attention to the amount of rain in the gutter and on the sidewalk. It poured all night and morning and the inside is cool and dry.

I was just curious. It's far superior to anything I could do and it looks fabulous. I'm sure the functionality is awesome too.

Welcome.

Same question I asked on another thread, how strong do you think this will be once it is all welded up? What if you hit a deer at 35mpg? How hard of a bump could it take?

These bumpers your building, how strong do you think they are? If you backed into something or hit a deer at 35mph, how do you think they'd hold up?

I nominate joshrichard for this awesome shot!

Yes. I looked at the specs in the FSM and measured where I'm sitting now on 245/70/16s which is the OEM tire size. I guess after 200k the old springs have had it. When loaded it's really really low. Like ridiculously low.

Let us know how it goes! Maybe a step by step write up with photos!

It rained last night, off and on today, and we had thunderstorms this evening. I just went and checked and everything is bone dry! I left all four windows cracked to where they just barely were covered by the bottom of the visor. Success all around!

That's 1.5" over stock? So if I'm I'm sagging 2" from original height it would give me 3.5" of lift from where I am today?

Here's a great write up from days past:

It doesn't look like this thread got much traction, but I'm investigating it as well. I've read the rear diff breather hose needs to be extended as it's rather short. However, the front diff, t-case, and tranny run into hard lines that go up the firewall - that's what I've read anyway. I haven't crawled under yet. I was reading that on a Toyota Landcruiser the diff air valves have a flapper that closes when it goes into water or something. The problem with this is that when the breather valve closes it pulls the air/water in through the axle seals causing damage. Are Nissan breather valves the same? Also, I read that the D22 snorkels fit the R50 well. Anyone know more?

Slow acceleration and bad gas mileage. That sums up owning a Pathfinder/QX4. LOL. That's is a good tune up. Can't imagine what more you could do.

REVIEW: I've had the visors in for a little while now and they're still holding up strong. Today I drove to work, ran errands, and drove home and more errands after work. I drove on the interstate and side roads. With the windows cracked but still within the visors there was good airflow to keep me a little cool, but not enough that I felt like I was in a wind tunnel. There is no additional road noise from the visors. It kept the car significantly cooler. I was actually able to do all my driving today without breaking a sweat. It is supposed to rain tonight so I've parked outside and left the windows cracked. We'll see what happens!

Not to hi-jack, it could be for TroyButler too. If you went with springs that provide a 2" lift you shouldn't need to do any other modifications such as lengthen brake lines, steering shaft, etc. If the answer is true, then I assume a 1" spacer is easier.

Welcome!

Welcome the forum!