AlabamaDan

Can you share info on yours too?

I'm resurrecting an old thread. How's this holding up?

Back to shopping for the bar itself. I've been looking for the amber/white combo. Some have a remote control to change the color which doesn't seem like something you'd want. This one however is controlled by turning the switch on and off multiple times. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Curved-42Inch-3024W-OSRAM-LED-Work-Light-Bar-Amber-Flood-Spot-Flash-Truck-Fog-4X/302835017552?hash=item46825fa750:g:IxsAAOSwPxVbaXew I think I've about decided to go with this one. The choices are so numerous, but so many of them are probably from the same factory in China or wherever. I think the things I want are curved, amber/white combo, 42". Worst case scenario I'm out $53 bucks, right?

I've been thinking of getting a CB Radio, but wonder if anyone still uses them. I think groups use them when off roading right? I don't really go off roading with groups, but do people still use them just on the road? How about in times of emergencies like a hurricane or something? Part two, if people are using CBs still, let's see where and how you installed them.

Maybe we can use a little strip like the guy int he video did?

Maybe it will be fine.

This is interesting, a fuse relay combo. What do y'all think about this? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CF7T5SY/ref=psdc_15733511_t3_B075M4PRG2 This is it on eBay for less than $2 https://www.ebay.com/itm/12V-30A-Car-4-Pin-Normally-Open-Contacts-Fused-Relay-On-Off-With-Metal-Bracket/282731994828?hash=item41d423decc:g:aEgAAOSwO2lbdjfL

Here are some interesting items I found for relay/fuse boxes: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075M4PRG2/ref=sspa_dk_detail_3?psc=1&pd_rd_i=B075M4PRG2&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_p=f52e26da-1287-4616-824b-efc564ff75a4&pf_rd_r=3R8M1EV7GRX4WR6EDDN6&pd_rd_wg=Jke36&pf_rd_s=desktop-dp-sims&pf_rd_t=40701&pd_rd_w=3Qmca&pf_rd_i=desktop-dp-sims&pd_rd_r=edb56e0f-b88d-11e8-b3e1-116141892cee

I don't think plastic will scratch the glass. Thanks, I like the look of them too.

There's some funny stuff in your post man! At some point you just have to take a chance and hope you can return it, right?

Maybe https://www.ebay.com/itm/183428096078?ssPageName=STRK:MESINDXX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1436.l2649 I like the amber and white option.

Maybe, for the money, it's worth a gamble. It's Amazon so it can always be returned. https://www.amazon.com/Harness-35000LM-Offroad-WATERPROOF-Warranty/dp/B01MFEMM7Q/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8 I like the 4D fish eye lens.

Have you seen this one: https://expeditionportal.com/forum/threads/how-to-make-a-cheap-isolated-dual-battery-setup-for-50.77503/

Installed vent visors

Next on my list of things to do was install some window visors. It's getting harder to find this for our old trucks, so I recommend buying the kit before they're no longer available. Unlike the little chrome ones from my 1982 S10 pickup, the modern plastic ones probably won't be recycled for future use. My AC has been broken for quite some time and in the rain being able to crack the window helps reduce inside fog. Doing so however results in some rain coming in the car. I also always like to leave my windows cracked in the summertime to let the heat out of the interior, but leaves the opportunity for rain, theft, or mischief. I've always wanted some visors. I don't like the version that sticks on the side of the car door. Personally, I don't like their look and I don't like sticking things to the paint. The in-channel visors are a little more expensive, but really it's about like eating out one or two times so it's an easy trade off. I ended up buying a kit off eBay for about $50. Here's the package. It comes with the 4 visors, 4 very small alcohol wipes, and asmall scrub pad. I recommend a few cotton balls, more alcohol and a pair of tweezers. Oh, and a fairly clean car. This is how she looked without the visors Give everything a little test fit first, make sure you know what goes where. When you're finished playing, the instructions read that you should use the little scrub pad to clean the inside of the channel. Not sure why exactly, but I follow instructions well. Next the instructions say to use the alcohol pad and wipe out the channel. I like to think my car is pretty clean now, but this very small pad got dirty quick! This is where the extra cotton balls and alcohol come into play. I continued to clean the channels. The cotton balls never stopped coming out dirty, but they got better. I figured it was as good as it would get. The channels ended up pretty wet, so I let them sit for 10 mins or so to dry out. Eventually I was ready to install. This is where the cute little tweezers come in. I don't think I would have ever been able to get the back off the 3M tape without them. The visors have tape down the sides (on the front) and one side (on the back). Remove the side piece. Remove a few inches from each end of the top piece. Install as you tested and slowly pull the tape backing off. Push around to make sure it's fitting well. Roll the window up and let it sit 24 hours. I hope y'all find this helpful.

I've been researching and found a few features that should be reviewed in considering which light bar to choose. 4D - Basically 4D means there is a little fish eye lens over the LED beneath the overall cover. Not only does this lens supposedly improve the performance of the led, but it provides another layer of protection. Moisture Evap Valve - We all want a waterproof light bar, right? But little is truly "waterproof" so what do you do when some condensation occurs? Perhaps choosing a light with some evaporation valve helps solve that issue. Wiring - If it comes with wiring, what does the wiring look like? It is a heavy enough gauge or not. A nice heavy gauge will help the light be brighter and more reliable. Are the wires protected from the weather and other condition sufficiently? What does it look like where the wires inter the housing? Are the connections solid? How long are the wires? Metal Finish - Is it anodized, painted, or powder coated. Mounting Brackets - are the mounting brackets good an solid? Are the screws stainless and of high quality? Personally I'm looking for something with standard bolt heads and not an allen head screw. Do the bolts and screws have good deep threads? Water Resistance - I'll say resistance vs proof. Proof is a big word. Is it just hot glued or super glued? Does it have rubber seals?

That's a good point. When I add some lights and stuff I plan to add a small distribution block and fuses. I'll wire it in there.

Yesterday I fixed my cruise. Today I installed under hood lights. Life is good!

Dude! You're QX is looking great! I want to hear more about that Infiniti clock you installed and those headlights. First, let's talk about the clock. To me that clock is the symbol of an Infiniti. I would love to install a clock light that. How did you wire it up, how did you cut the console, how did you mount the clock?

Are those a direct bolt in swap or is there more too it? Where'd ya get them?

I've always wanted under hood lights. 20 years ago I thought about wiring up my own led string under the hood, but I shy'd away because of a lack of experience with soldering, circuits, etc. Now you can simply buy a strip that's already built and ready to go, so I decided I had no excuse not to try. There are sooo many choices on eBay and Amazon, it's a little overwhelming. I decided to go for one of the more pricey versions hoping it would be worth it and besides it came with the wire and pin switch. Here is what I got: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Underhood-LED-Light-Kit-w-Hood-Switch-Size-and-Color-Options-Available/291157773341?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&var=590308031148&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649 The ad claimed they lights were water and ice proof, sealed in a silicone coating. Ends sealed with marine grade heat shrink. 3M adhesive backing. I bought the 24" version of high intensity white. It has a 10' 20awg black wire and a small hood pin switch. The only thing I needed was more zip ties and a washer. Here is a before pic of the engine bay, in my garage, with the light on. I decided to mount it in front of the weatherstripping because it shined in my eyes less, although you'd really be looking down most of the time so who cares. It might have been protected more behind the weather stripping, but I went for it anyway. I drilled a small hole in the underside of the hood and fished the wire back to the rear corner. I pulled the wire through a little fast and it got in a little bit of a bind, but worked out ok. Next I used an existing hole to mount the hood pin by the battery since the positive would be headed that way anyway. I didn't have a power distribution block and I figured something this small didn't need a fuse. I ended up running the positive wire to the fuse box behind the battery. The negative side went to the pin switch. Easiest wire job ever. From there it was just a matter of zip tying up the wire. For less than $20 it is an easy and awesome mod. And the final result is:

So I stopped by Lowe's on the way home and browsed through hardware until I found Hillman Nylon Hole Plugs. I thought "That's just what I need!" and bought a bunch of various sizes. Cost about $5. I came home and tried to insert to plug the empty hole. That's quite a challenge. During the event where I was trying to shine the light, push the brake pedal and get the little thing up there I dropped it of course. The last time I dropped it into this metal bracket above the pedal, but below the top section I was working on. As I reached up there and started feeling around I found a number of things, one of which was a plug like the other side! It was much easier to get back in place and solved my cruise control issues! What I now have in there is a Ribbed Push In Nylon Rivet. It's not what colinnwn has in his photo, but it works and appears to be what is on the other side. Thanks for the help! One more thing off the repair list!

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I think part of our projects is the fun in building stuff right, whether it is the car or the distribution block?

That was a great post. Thank you. I like the look of this one and thanks to that you tube video I sorta understand what he's done there. I like the way it is built to allow wires to go to it later for switches and accessory hot wires. I wonder how you could put it in a box or something under the hood to protect it from elements.