zeppelindrummer

what do you all think of this one? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAP...hlink:middle:us

Very nice dude. so the 32s run fine? i've got 31s, and i didn't take a before pick so i found as close to a decent before as i could... here they are! I'm definitely gonna wanna get some new rear shocks too. I'm stickin with what i have for now though. The ones that come with the Hardbody kit could definitely go bigger, they are the same size as stock. Before: After: my front was especially saggy, and i forgot to get mudflaps or anything for the JGC coils in the rear. I'm going to get some 1" spacers though, and lift the rear a little bit more. I'm definitely happy with the look now! While i was under the pathy, the exhaust pipe and muffler seemed to constantly be in the way, so i put my 10 dollar harbor freight angle grinder to use and just chopped it off even though i have a bad tick from my manifold, the lack of muffler definitely adds a good low end to the mix of my loud pathy.

Dang, glad this old post from 2004 came back! i'm wantin to get one... and i'ma be searchin Ebay now

I used to keep my small spare up top in my safari rack, but once i got a full size i knew my current load bars wouldn't support it. It sits in my back cargo area and takes up a crap ton of space... I bought off brand Thule load bars, and they definitely aren't gonna last much longer. As soon as i can find some on craigslist that aren't already sold i'm gonna replace the old ones, and put my spare right back up top!. It's not as hard as you may think to take it out. not out of mine at least. I just stand on the rear bumper, and take it out. it's not a big deal at all. I definitely wish i had the rear tire carrier still, cuz i love that look, and it is alot closer.

Welcome to the NPORA Family! As said above, the search function will show you what you need! I just lifted my pathfinder 3" and did it for under 400 bucks. It used to be cheaper, but the prices of some of the components has gone up. I got the Rough Country Nissan Hardbody lift, which comes with shocks, and new upper control arms as well as shackles for leaf springs. We however don't have leaf springs, so you'll need to get some JGC (Jeep Grand Cherokee) coil springs. Here is a link to the best deal i found on the new control arms and shocks in the kit, http://www.rockymountainsusp.com/nissan_early.htm and here is a link to what you'll need to do to lift the rear with the JGC Coils. http://www.damagedreality.com/fordcoil.html again, welcome! -Zepp

I'm havin the same problem Packie... just replaced the master cylinder, and my brake fluid. and its really spongy til the last bit just as u said. When the car is off, if i pump the brakes, or press em it tightens up, and becomes fully pressurized, but after the truck starts, it loses alot of the pressure. At first once i had the new master cylinder, it seemed alot better than it used to be, but its kinda back to what it used to be...

WHen i cranked mine, i just measured from the center of the hub, to the top of the fender. Cranked em to my desired height, and then matched the other side with the tape measure!

Finished the resta my lift today, I'll have some pics up soon hows urs comin BoneZ?

WOo Hoo! The Pathy is fixed. Checked all the lines real good, bled the brakes, and they work better than ever (In the 2 or 3 years i've had the pathfinder) Thanks for the help and input guys -Zepp

Yeah! i got the flare nut wrench, and a small pipe cutter. The broken part, was right at the junction where it connects. Only about a quarter inch broke off inside the screw fitting. It was pretty simple to just cut off the jagged part, put the fitting back on, and then flare the end of the line. Because we had to cut off some of the line, we had to re-bend the line a little bit to make it fit from caliper to the junction. It's too windy today, so bleeding of the brakes will happen tomorrow! And about replacing the master cylinder.... i think it may be good that i did it, my brakes weren't very good to begin with, and i had checked my pads and everything seemed fine. The master cylinder was leaking, so i'm hoping this "fix" will turn into somewhat of an upgrade! -Zepp

Thanks guys! I got the master cylinder replaced... turns out, that wasn't the problem. When bleeding the master cylinder, i heard a little pitter splatter sound, went back and looked under the rear axle, and there was a nice puddle of brake fluid piling up. The rear brake line, broke off at a kind of "T" junction, where three lines connect. (if i'm remembering correctly) It doesn't look like replacing the brake line would be too hard, i've still gotta bleed the brakes and everything, and get the system full of fluid again. Is there any big problem i may run into when removing, and attaching the new line? (It's the single line, that runs into the right rear caliper) Thanks! -Zepp

The three circled parts are what i'm confused as to how i'm supposed to remove them. I put a 10mm wrench and it fits fine, i just can't get it to turn. it just rounds the edges. Is there a different way to remove these? Am i doing it completely wrong? and then a pic w/o the drawing just... because

Ahh crap. haha

The only problem i ran into was the spindle inside the UCAs having it's threads junked up. I had to use a tap and die set to fix them. Getting the new bushings on the spindle, and inside the control arm also can be a little time consuming, and takes some effort. A rubber mallot on the end of the spindle works okay to knock em loose whileresting the old control arm so the holes that the bushings go in are on a pipe that is about the same diameter as the hole on the control arm, just pound on it. This is one way i used to get them in as well. To get them in, you can also take the the old bushings and put them on top of the new ones, to hammer them in, the center metal cylinder is the exact size, so that works good to knock em down. -------0 -------\ \ ---------\ \ -----------\ \ ------------l l <--------- UCA -----------/ / ---------/ / -------/ / -------0 -----# # -----# # -----# # -----# # -----# # -----# # <---Pipe -----# # -----# # -----# # You can also get them in, by pushing the bushing on just enough so you have some threads, and you can put the big washer back on, and screw the nut down the spindle to suck the new bushing on. (put a long screwdriver through the hole of the spindle to keep it from spinning when tightening the nut) Any other questions, just ask. Pretty much everything is very fresh in my mind still. If you have the stock shocks, they kinda suck to get out too. But what job has everything go right? Also, just remembered, if you have a good long X tire iron, it'll work good for the bolts that holds the spindle to the truck. -Zepp

I was out night wheeling a couple days ago, and all of the sudden, my brakes went to the floor. I wasn't quite sure what had happened so i slowly headed to a flat place where i could check all of my lines. I got out the flashlight, and there wasn't any leaking to be found. Has to be the Master Cylinder... My friend in his Toyota pickup and I drove back to the dorms, downshifting as my way of stopping.... and Mikey in his truck in front of me incase i had to.... use him as a brake. After popping the hood, i could tell the Master Cylinder had gone. Fluid hadn't dripped everywhere, but it was all over the master cylinder itself and around it, and the leaked fluid had attracted alot of fresh dust. The auto stores around here didn't have any new master cylinders in stock, so i went to the "All Trucks Parts" junkyard down the road, and got a new Master Cylinder. Everything looked right, but the holes don't match up, and its obviously for a newer year, (mine being an 87) Kinda pissed, cuz i didn't think this would be that big of a fix, i threw the cylinder in the front seat, and forgot about it for the resta the night. Question One: Should i just get the parts store to special order one? it'll come in in a day, but its a bit more expensive than a used one. Or should i just make sure they give me the right year at the junkyard? i don't wanna be replacing one again, cuz driving without brakes sucks, and i was wondering if you guys think i should trust a used one? Questoin Two: When taking off my shot master cylinder, there are the three bolt things on one side, with the stiff "wire" or metal things going to them. I tried unscrewing but that didn't work, are those supposed to be unscrewed? or are they taken out a different way? Thanks! -Zepp

Hey guys, sorry i haven't been back in a while with an update but here we go! I got the Rough Country kit from Rocky Mountain Suspension Products. It was 328.99, or somethin very very close to that. I've got the new front shocks, and control arms on, and let me tell ya..... i LOVE the shocks. THey are a huge improvement from what i used to have... (the 22 year old stock shocks, haha) and i cranked the t-bars to give me around the 3 inches. My front was pretty saggy to begin with, so it's only a bout an inch higher than the stock rear right now. I haven't put the back on, because i've had strep... in fact, i had strep while i was puttin on the front, and it was killin me. I finished that, and luckily i'm thinkin the rear will be a bit easier. A big problem i ran into though while doing the front was a problem with the threads on the both of the bars that hold the bushings that go inside the new upper control arms. I didn't wanna search the junkyard, or buy new parts and hope the threads are good, so i finally splurged and bought a new tap and die set. (i've needed them before, and never got one cuz i didn't want just a small kit, and the bigger ones are a little pricey) It was almost 80 bucks at Harbor Freight, but its a HUGE kit, and is actually very high quality, works very well, and i used it for more than just those threads when putting the new control arms, and shocks on. Overall i'm very happy with the fronts results from the kit. Didn't have any trouble other than fixing those threads, and I'm hoping to get the rear on this weekend, i've gotten over my bug, and it hopefully wont be too tough. I'll post before and after pictures soon as i'm done! -Zepp

well thats retarded. good thing i got my rough countrys!!! they're in the mail, and should be here early next week. and thanks again everybody for all ur help!

that things a beast!! congrats!!

siiick!!! so ima go with the 86.5-97 HB kit from that link (I've actually run across that site multiple times, but wasn't sure if they'd work), and i'll use the JGC coils that i got off craigslist, and those shocks that came with it will work too? i was wantin to get newer shocks that are specifically for 3" of lift, so i was considering getting the calmini's, but if these will do the same, should i just go with them? thanks for all the help guys!!

i could call again and ask... it says 1.5" not 2... my bad, typo! anyway, are those the correct UCA's? cuz if its only gonna give me that much lift, idk if i wanna put all the trouble into gettin them

I asked, and they said the only ucas they have are in a full 2" kit for the hardbodies..... kinda disappointin me, but i guess i'll have to look around for a used pair! i was really lookin forward to this project next week, but i guess it'll have to wait if any of you guys see, have, or know of a used set let me know! i've got paypal and am dyin to get this done! thanks all! -zepp

Rough Country no longer carries the upper control arms for the WD21's (I've called, emailed, and live chatted them) and the Calmini UCA's are nearing the 400 dollar mark. I remember a while back reading the threads on new UCA's and 88 recommended not getting the "4x4 parts" brand. I was wondering why? is there a company i've been missing that has UCAs? What do guys you recommend i do? thanks!

Thanks guys!!!

haha, thats the technical term!! thanks! lol

Actually just went through that process last weekend when replacing my tie-rod ends. Its not super hard or technical, but it does take a bit of time. I was getting really pissed at Pep boys, because i had to replace 6 on just my fronts.... I learned a little bit though, that because the lugs and studs are very old, they get much easier to cross thread. If the lug nut has some small rocks or dirt, it can mess up the threads on the stud or the nut itself which then can mess up and cross thread when putting the lug back on. I was looking to get a tap/die set to clean up the threads, but instead i just replaced all the ones that were even a little hard to put on. Figured, may as well why i'm at it. Got all new studs and lug nuts, cuz they're about a buck and a half a piece. All you really have to do is take off your wheels, and remove the hub. The wheel bearings will probably need to be repacked with grease, so do that while you're at it. It's not difficult. The only tool you'll need other than sockets, screwdrivers, and allen wrenches are some reverse pliers. I didn't have any, so i had to buy them at home depot. 20 bucks, but i know i'll use em a ton. The reverse pliers are used when you have the hub off, and there is a little "C" shaped thing.... not sure what its called, that you have to remove in order to take off some other pieces. (what is stated below) There are about 3 or 4 different circular washer shaped pieces inside the hub that you'll need to take out. One of them has threads, and you have to unscrew it. Make sure though, when you put that piece back in you tighten it down enough. I didn't on one side, and the wheel was a little wobbly so i had to take everything back off and tighten it. Other than that, once you get the circular piece that holds the studs, hit the trashed ones with a hammer, they come right out. put the new ones in, and tighten the lug nut on them, so that the teeth will catch, and the new stud will be in. Put everything back together and you're done! I luckily did this job in my parents driveway when the Colorado weather was in the low low single digits. Of course it lasted into the night... so that was fun Hope this helps, Good luck!