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zeppelindrummer

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Everything posted by zeppelindrummer

  1. Yup! i've gutted the 91, stickin with the 95. the heated seats, sunroof, working passenger door lock, rear sound bar, tire carrier... etc etc ... reason after reason kept going ontop of the low miles to just stick with the 95.
  2. So i'm in the process of swapping everything from my 91 to my 95, and i need to get my body lift on the 95 before my bumpers will fit. Has anybody done this? any tips or tricks? i was planning on doing one side, pulling out lift blocks from the 91, and then stickin them in the 95, putting the 95's bolts into the 91, and then, doing the same with the reverse side. I'll need a couple jacks, but that's no problem. Are the body lift bolts going to be the same for both trucks? when i lifted my 91, the black bolts that were supposed to be for the rear i think, didn't fit, and i had to use the other chrome ones. I'm not sure where i put the black bolts... so i'm kinda worried i'm gonna need two more? Also, i threw away the directions, so i was wondering if anybody has a link to online directions of how to do this? (basically what i want, is a list of what to unattach. I can remember some stuff, but not everything. Thanks guys! -Zepp
  3. Well the front is an ARB modded to fit the body lift, and the rear is a relatively simple bumper me and my neighbor made. i REALLY like it, it's simple, has similar angles to the arb, and looks good! plus it's got a hitch way up high, so when i go down steep declines i dont have to worry about rubbing my ridiculously low hitch.
  4. And the pictures don't even really do the interior justice. It really is in amazing shape. The steering wheel has wear and that's the only problem with the interior. It even has the center console with cup holders which i've so desperately wanted to get for my 91! I haven't messed with the AC yet, but that doesn't work in my 91... hmmmm... so many options. I swapped everything off my 87 to the 91 in a day, had it lifted and looking good the day after i bought it stock. haha right before swapping from my 87 and later that day and today! : my bumper: before the bumper, and BFG ATs I feel like i would really miss the 91... but if i put all of this on my 95, it would probably look great, and would live forever!
  5. So far its 2 votes for swapping everything to the 95! that's what i posted this on here for... i want as many opinions and ideas as possible. My neighbor works at a junkyard, and has an engine from a quest which he said would easily be swapped in my pathy. Its got 140K and is only 400 bucks. He always gets stuff in too, so... i've always got that option.
  6. I had considered that, but my 91 is in nearly perfect shape, it has the squared dash, (which i prefer) and i've got the fun little clinometer in it (i've replaced the vents since this picture) and i would have to scrap the 91 which i really don't want to do. I want them both to live on! idk though, that's still a very easily considered option. It would just be easier to sell a stock 95 with 74K than a stock 91 with 207 on the dash (even if there is a new engine in it)
  7. Hey guys, so as some of you know my timing belt snapped in my 91 and i found a 95 for 800 bucks that was not running, but had only 74K on the engine. Carfax checks out, and me and my friend towed the pathy home at around 3 in the morning. (One of the calipers was removed by the previous owner) so the brakes were not working. The battery was dead, so i took mine out of my 91, and the sunroof is missing. Every time i saw the truck, it was in poor lighting, around 10 or 11 at night, so i never had a chance to really see how good of condition everything really is in. Other than the bumper, and front driver quarter panel, the truck is straight. Very little rust (only on the running boards) and the leather is in very good shape. Today i wrenched on the truck for a couple hours, and got it running. After sitting for a year without being started, it fired up just fine, and actually runs very good! I'm going to replace the timing belt and water pump, because the water pump seems to be leaking. After thinking about driving my 91 again, i realized how much of a shame it would be to use the engine out of the 95, and just part out the rest of the truck, because everything is really in great condition, it runs, and the little bit of damage that is there, will not be difficult to fix. So i've decided rather than doing an engine swap right now, i'm going to get a new quarter panel, use my old bumper (cuz ive got an ARB on the 91) and i'm going to drive the 95 for a bit while waiting on a new donor engine. I'll then sell the 95, and make pretty good profit! Let me know your guys thoughts! we need to keep as many good condition pathys in this world as possible! sending this one to a junkyard after having my way with 'er didn't seem right. -Zepp
  8. haha, that's what i've been wanting to do, but this is here, and will be a bit easier. I told the guy i wouldn't buy it unless he proved it ran, so he's gonna get the pulley, belts, and fan and have it running for me before i buy it. I almost just want to fix the body damage myself, put my old bumper on, and see if i could turn a big profit selling it as a whole truck. I would have to search for a new engine though, and that isn't sounding too fun, especially if this one really does have such low miles. I'll report back after it runs, and i'll probably post a classifieds thread soon so all the vultures out there can have your pick! everything seemed to be in great shape when i briefly looked over the interior, and the exterior as well. I've got dibs on the center console with cupholders though! :beer: I've got my last final in an hour, so i'm really excited to have that stress over, and to begin wrenchin on my pathfinders! I'll also be able to update a bit more often since i'm not going to be spending every waking minute not at work studying. And i'm sure i'll have some questions when i begin the swap! I'll start a new thread, and will try to take pictures as i go to maybe assist others when they do a first time swap? -Zepp
  9. I just checked out the pathfinder, and it seems to be in really good shape. It was missing the lower pulley and fan, and there were no belts on the engine. The guy said that it had been sitting for a year but ran perfect prior to the accident. I'm a little skeptical as to why he didn't fix it. Could alot go wrong with it just sitting for that long without running? How much would lifter replacement/rebuild run me? as of now, that's looking like a better solution if in reality it didn't get too messed up. Thanks for the offer Navy! i'll keep that in mind. My old pathfinder currently lives in littleton. Its an 87 black/grey two tone with a hell of an exhaust leak. I sold it to my friend when he wrecked his audi, and he lives off of simms and belleview. Maybe you've seen/heard it around! haha Thanks! -Zepp
  10. I almost feel like putting this one in would be easier. The guy doesn't live far, and the engine has very very low miles.
  11. I was thinking the exact same thing. haha, i don't want to have to go through this again. My 207K engine was running amazing too. i feel so stupid, because i've been meaning to check the timing belt since the summer. Work and Class, just got in the way, but that really is no excuse.
  12. Two days ago, my pathy didn't start up. After towing it home, and looking it over with my neighbor, we came to realize my timing belt had gone, so my engine is most likely toast. This happened at a pretty awful time, being the week before finals, and me needing my pathfinder to drive home for Christmas. Luckily i came across a craigslist posting for a 95 with approximately 75K on it only 7 miles from my house for 800 bucks. It was in a minor accident, and is currently not drivable (not due to much), but it does run. http://denver.craigslist.org/cto/2100372526.html So... plan is, start tearing out my old engine when i have time between studying, tests, and work, and drop the new one in the couple of days off i have before i need to drive home. I'm mostly looking for tips on anything to watch out for? This summer me and my roomate took out the engine of his Tacoma, and dropped a new one in which wasn't too difficult. I have the tools, and the general know how... just not necessarily the time, because i haven't done a full swap before. If anybody has any direction to point me in, i'd love all the help i can get! Thanks!!! -Zepp
  13. Cuz 32702-33G17 would make me accurate with 31s, right? Is there nothing i can do to fix it on my 33s?
  14. MM. i'm not sure on my gears. i had baby tires when i first got my pathy, and it was accurate. I'd say they couldn't have been bigger than around 29 inches. i went up to 31s, and the speedo was off, and on 33s, it says i'm going quite a bit slower than i actually am going. Based on my pathy being a 91 Manual SE, should i know what gears i have?
  15. Hey guys, ever since i put on my 31s, and even more so now that i'm on 33s, my Speedometer is pretty far off, ive searched the thread and google, and i can't seem to find a writeup or any information on how to do this, or what the correct gear replacement would be in getting my Speedo accurate. Does anybody know the correct number of splines i need to get in order to compensate for the bigger tires? i'm off around 5 mph going 50-60, and probably around 7 or 8+ going 70+ Thanks! -Zepp
  16. Agreed!!! Me and my buddy have been doing a 3.4 swap into his 90 Toyota Pickup, and it sounds like a much much bigger PIA than this. The electronics have to all be spliced and changed. Different ECUs = HUGE HEADACHE. I downloaded the PDF... cuz once my 3.0 goes out, this is what i'm going to do! Hope it's still running great! -Zepp
  17. Craftsman makes a great bottle jack that goes a good amount higher than the stock bottle jack, and it's not much bigger. If you're wanting something small to keep in the truck for changing a tire, i'd recommend that route. Only 23 bucks http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_9990000031871911P?prdNo=18&blockNo=18&blockType=G18
  18. Yup. when i got pissed and certain it had to be a vacuum leak i went back to the hoses, and found that the main hose from the MAF/Airbox to the engine had torn on the underside at the hose clamp. It was tweaked and because the hose is 20 years old it tore! My neighbor told me to take some carb cleaner and spray it around any seals/hose connections, and if theres a leak, it will suck it in and burn the carb cleaner as fuel, which will throw the idle up for a second. Sure enough that worked, and we found the spot! Idle is fixed, and it is running with great power. Thanks for the input guys. -Zepp
  19. Dang, there is a lot of variation as far as mileage goes. I'm runnin 33's with an ARB and Steel rear bumper, and i'm getting around 16-17 all city driving, and when im strictly highway 19-22. Im finishing my tune up now because of my rough idle, so hopefully i'll see an even greater increase once i'm finished! -Zepp
  20. Sorry, got a 91 a little while back, and didn't think to change that. So i cleaned the MAF real good, and replaced the fuel filter... and it's still doing it. hmph. not sure what to do now. Idk if it normally does this, but when i first put the keys in, along with the "[seat] belts" light and the "brake" light, the "oil" light comes on, but it turns off once i turn on the truck. I never noticed that before, and i don't know if it is supposed to normally do that, or if that has anything to do with it? I'll check my MAF wiring a bit more, but when i did today it seemed fine. i cleaned the connections in it as well as the sensor itself. I guess i'll do my plugs and wires next? I should have had them run the diagnostics while i was getting my fuel filter and MAF cleaner, but i forgot... That'll have to be done Sunday morning then. And Zanman... i just wiggled the wire while it was idling... and nothing. Oh, and it does idle funny when i'm stopped, it only dies when i'm coasting. -zepp
  21. A couple of the small vacuum hoses came undone when i did my body lift, so i replaced those, but it is still doing the same thing. I ran it with the air filter cover off and it was still doing the "bubbly" idle. MAF sensor tomorrow after class, and before work, and if it still doesn't fix the problem, Saturday or Sunday morning i'm going to do my plugs and wires, see where that gets me. I'll probably throw a new fuel filter on there while i'm at it as well. Thanks JJ and 5523 -zepp
  22. Hey guys, i've been having some problems for the last week or so. When on the gas the pathfinder is fine, but when i am in neutral, coasting to a stop sign/light the pathfinder sometime dies! I usually throw it into gear to kinda roll start it, and it's fine, but more and more often when i am in neutral it dies. When i start it, it idles around 500, and kinda bounces up and down. I dont remember, but i don't think it has died just sitting yet... Before this it would idle around 900 or a grand and i had no problems. Was wondering what you think my problem could be? plugs and wires? Distributor cap? o2 sensor? where should i start! thanks guys -Zepp
  23. Thanks guys, i'll check into the actuator, and if i can't figure out, i'll try and manually get it pushed up to defrost for when the snow starts coming. I would like to get it fixed though... i checked for fuses and found nothing, i haven't checked the relays but i will. and Tungsten, haha that was a picture i had used in a different thread looking for the vents. The epoxy didn't hold up, and it all fell everywhere. I have work off monday, so i'm gonna try and figure everything out then... the pathy has been on the back burner lately though, me and my buddy have been swapping a 3.4 into his 3.0 Toyota pickup. Its quite a job, but its really fun, and going along pretty smoothly. I'll check back once i've checked everything else on my dash. thanks again. -zepp
  24. Okay, so when i first got my new pathfinder, the heater controls worked fine, but relatively recently, the switch to change from, defrost, to upper vents, to lower vents got stuck on the lower position. I can still click the other buttons that would normally adjust where the air comes out, but it stays on the lower vent, foot position. The switch that changes from cold to hot still works, and from Auto-3 (air power) works fine as well. I really don't understand what this could be? Me and Adamazan went to a junkyard, and got the little control panel for the ventilation system we put it in, and it had the same problem. Before the switch stopped working i noticed the lights on it flickered every now and then, and eventually they all turned off, and that is when it got stuck on the lower vent option. Winter is coming, and i really want my defroster to work! Any ideas on what it could be? could the other button module i got from the junkyard have had the same problem? or is it deeper within the wiring? I'm really stuck. thanks everybody -Zepp I included a picture so you could see what style vent controller i have
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