RainGoat

Canadian R50s have their own variations, often different than the U.S. versions.

Ditto! I have lifted my whole rear end with a Hi-Lift in my hitch shackle. I have the OEM hitch which is significantly more robust than the aftermarket ones as it has extensions that extend up the unibody underneath. It was emergent/urgent & it was sketchy but I’ve done some of that kind of thing in non-automotive settings. I would NOT use the running boards as a jack point. I will consider my sliders once they are welded on but that would still be a last resort as there is significant risk of damage to the vehicle - either from the lift or from the Jack misbehaving & hitting the doors. I now have a steel front bumper & would consider lifting off that; however, I have reservations there as well - both stability if the jack & some lack of faith in how the bumper mounts to the unibody. You can use a Lift-mate to lift a wheel and help with building up or shoveling our with obstructions. With a wheel change you would then need to put something under the body & lower & remove the wheel - obviously not ideal. Another advantage of a Hi-Lift is acting as a come-along (basically a manual winch) for recovery or for moving obstacles. I carry my OEM scissor jack & a 5T bottle jack all the time. I’m looking at the Safe-Jack accessories for my bottle jack & I have a 1cm thick poly foot for the jacks by Reese. I also have had an ARB Bushranger exhaust jack for >15 years. It’s a pain to pack. I’ve never used it & I stopped bringing it. It’s been hanging in my garage 11 years. My Mom does usually pack hers but I don’t think she’s needed it. In 17 years, I think I’ve only lifted the truck 2-3 times at most - my primary reason for carrying the Hi-Lift was emergency extraction as I was typically remote & solo. Hi-Lifts are a pain to mount & sketchy to put up & down on your roof (I always fear losing control & smashing up my metal or popping a window) I generally consider jacks as insurance for emergencies & bad luck. With reliable tires and judicious driving you should hopefully never need one.

My info is just data aggregation mostly. I’ll defer to @02_Pathy &@R50JR as they’ve done it themselves. I saw it on the shop floor during the traumatic events of having to remove my otherwise pristine engine & put in a new one.

Ah, a silver Pathfinder in the NW, we’re all going to have a hard time making sure we get into the right trucks! But seriously, Welcome!

Ha ha ha ha ha ha !!

One smart trick was a guy who pushed each bolt into a cardboard template to keep track of what went where

Looks Great - the black wheels looks good to me. That OEM 6 spoke turns out nice in black Definitely think hard about the running boards. The kind you have are low profile & accent the truck nicely in my opinion. They are very stout & will actually protect your rocker panel to a significant degree. I know of several people who took theirs off only to suffer rocker &/or door damage as a result. They are also invaluable if you use your roof at all or take women or kids along as passengers. I actually own the RRO sliders but haven’t been in a rush to mount them as I find them usefull on a daily use basis.

http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/17104-threadlocker-on-power-valve-screws-pics/page-1 Power Valve (Butterfly Valve) Screws on Intake Plenum They are power/swirl valves...the swirl valve actuator is what opens and closes them 6 butterfly valves in the upper manifold held in with 2 screws each tiny phillips screws, size and thread pattern is m3x.50 10mm length Remove each screw & Loctite red threadlocker=permanent 2-3hrs, just a lot of bits and pieces to take off/put back on page EM-10 for torque specs for all of the removed hardware, and EM-12 for the upper intake manifold bolts. Intake Manifold torque-all 12mm bolts and nuts at 20lbs. Gaskets (4) ordered from dealer 16175-4w000 (throttle body) 14033-4w000 (right side, between upper and lower intake plenum also called 14010A*) 14033-4w010 (left side, between upper and lower intake plenum also called 14010AA*) 14033-4w00A replaces 14032-4 (between lower intake plenum and intake manifold also called 14040E*) * (part numbers as shown on exploded view in the print-out given to me by dealership, dunno why they don't match the p/n on the packages... all gaskets fit perfect.) Altimas and Sentras TSB NTB05-058. Power Valve Butterfly Valve Screws 8 in Number Altima Part#14511-8J00B come with washers on them which are kind of a pain to remove but need to come off. Three Bond 1375B, Nissan Part#14511-8J01B.

Perfect - I was going to say, I only see One To Do on that list. People generally say it’s 2-3 hours labor. I also think it’s generic enough anybody could do it. Nissan May disassemble it & then refuse to put it back together without a costly part. A shop can replace the screws. I would consider getting the Altima screws & remove the washers & have them ready or grab some plus a butterfly plate or two from the JY. Power Valve Butterfly Valve Screws 8 in Number Altima Part#14511-8J00B they come with washers on them which are kind of a pain to remove but need to come off. Three Bond 1375B, Nissan Part#14511-8J01B.

That makes sense

The back of the diff has a mounting plate for I don’t know what that I’ve thought about sending a rigid arm off of to allow visualization of the rear diff as well or at least to have a good idea of what it would align with. You do realize, this means rock/undercarriage lights are next?

Home Depot has some decent 6’ cam straps $9 for 4. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-6-ft-x-1-in-Locking-Tie-Down-4-Pack-FH0898/206802389 I put a 2” wide industrial velcro strip down my fire extinguisher & then have it vertically in the angle between the rear seat back & the driver’s side rear wheel well with something against it to prevent ejection upwards/backwards - though I’m not thrilled with it. I’ve looked at some hard mounts but at $40-60 I’m disinclined. There’s a less expensive way to hard mount it to the front seat bolts (by bracketeer) but I haven’t gotten around to it yet. Here’s the area behind that plastic. [mention=37543]TowndawgR50[/mention] & I were contemplating MOLLE rack mounting points but never really moved forward on that project yet. That mounting location below the center of the window looks most promising. I also highly recommend tapping the metric upper cargo retainers with 1/4-20 & putting in metal anchors.

Looks good. That undercarriage view looks pretty good. Do you know it angle of view? Also, can you take a pic of how & where you mounted it. Consider securing that load with Cam straps. Those bungees won’t prevent those tool boxes from becoming lethal projectiles. Also something more secure for that fire extinguisher.

We ended up not using the camber bolts on mine

They make “front facing” cameras that avoid that problem- also avoid getting “lines” if you can. Post a pic of the mounted location & its view once you get the new wheels on. It also wouldn’t hurt to know what your mid fender & hub height are.

Hey, I’m still rockin’ stock tire size (& I’ve got the rear on 9448s awaiting the SFD up front). Actually, all of my IG photos this summer are with 29.5” tires. I’m not changing until spring of next year when my lift is complete (plus, I keep wondering if a KO3 might come out). Great work - I know how nice it feels to have that old worn out stock suspension replaced. @hawairish &@towndawgr50 are my mechanical gurus so I’d 2nd listening to any advice they send your way. Congratulations!!

If you are using a Nissan Top Hat then the spacer is already a part of it. If aftermarket make sure the spacer gets put in. Here is the compressor everybody is talking about. We used it with my ARB OME HD front springs & rear LR9228 springs. No problem - very stable & safe feeling. Strut Alignment The notches on the bottom spring seat and the top spring seat must be aligned as shown. Note that the side of the strut shown in the photo is the inboard (engine-facing) side. When reinstalling the struts, orient the "L" or "R" on the strut insulator (aka "top hat") so that the "L" lines up with the notches for the left strut, and the "R" lines up with the notches for the right strut -can’t get the photo to stick

That was my understanding as well

In the PNW it’s wet & slippery most of the time so I use the AWD almost as a default & 2WD on the rare dry days. Consequently, it didn’t seem like I was gaining much. Did you ever happen to put it in AWD while the front was unlocked - there’s a diversity of opinions on the result, from error light to catastrophe?

That’s very interesting to know. I thought it needed closer proximity. As an FYI, I once kept just my fob in my ‘93 Maxima SE so that I could grab stuff out of one vehicle & transfer it to another without going back up to the apartment for the other key. When my Maxima was stolen they unlocked & cleaned out the Path but I’m pretty sure it was the lack of chip that prevented them stealing it. Now I just keep a non-chipped key. It doesn’t take up much space & allows that convenience.

Look good! Also, consider if manual hubs will fit through the center bore. I think the Mile Marker are the narrowest. I don’t run manual hubs because I like the versatility of my All-Mode atx14a but it’s just something to be aware of before you buy.

Mine was actually getting a paint job on the bumper & front wheel wells which just happened to coincide with Halloween. It’s a shame you didn’t get pics because your truck’s costume sounds pretty cool.

As a former Kansan, I would consider Michigan a solid Midwestern State. What do you think@mjotrainbrain ?

Micah’s folks live up the street from me

When he’s in town@micahfelker lives right near me & we’re both on Seattle’s Eastside with@TowndawgR50