Fukinitupagain

Eh, if I had the money for the SAS I would. Piss on everyone acting like they wouldn't. "I'd rather just buy some POS Jeep or Chevy K5 Blazer or old Bronco & SAS that for another $3K & be like everyone else" THEN GO TO SOME OTHER JEEP OR CHEVY BOARD! Or come over to Pirate & see what its like to really spend money on something to wheel. "Oh I'm happy with 31s's no ground clearance & limited wheeling capabilities" not me! I want to continue beating the piss out of mine on the trail. Its time to save up for the SAS, the rest of you can just sit back & watch us have real fun

I've thought about posting my new truck but its a diesel F350...

My tranny just died at 226K miles & for the last 150K I've wore the hell out of it offroading & dogging the piss out of it. If you take care of it theres not reason you can't get another 100k or more out of it

I wondered how long it would take for the infamous "hootus" to make it on to the thread...

I have a '94 F-250, thats my work truck that I'm using as my daily driver. But I might just turn the truck into my daily driver & be done with the R50. I've had it for 11 years now. Bought it bone stock with 19K miles on it & have since gotten another 206K miles.

I'm sad to say that this might be the end of my R50. The transmission is dumping tranny fluid out & is all messed up. It could just be a seal or a hose but the problem is in order to do even that fix the tranny would have to come out, since I do not have the facilities I have to go to my mechanic & I know just to pull out & put the tranny back in will be around the $800-1000 mark. If it's just a seal I'd be looking at about $1000-1200 all the way around (being that the seal only cost $15 but tranny fluid & a new filter & such will up it a bit), & then theres no guarantee that its just a seal thats gone bad. If its that the transmission is going bad & the leak continues b/c of the pressure build up then I'll have to either rebuild or replace the tranny on top of the monies already spent (and being, as I said before, that I have no garage or facilities I'd have to "out-source" the work again), which means... this is probably it for the R50. Its hard for me to justify dumping so much money into it with only a 50/50 chance of it working right. I'm going to sit on it for a couple of days but being that I work 40 hrs a week as a janitor & pay for college on my own theres not a whole lot of liquid cash at my disposal.

I say, don't listen to everyone about getting your R50 checked out thoroughly before you do anything, yada-yada. If you want to upgrade your suspension I say do it. You can get you engine checked out then too.

The way the rear tire carrier is if it doesn't come with one it can't be simply switched over.

3 of my 4 were ripped off offroading (the only one not ripped off while wheelin' got ripped off when I had a blow-out on the interstate), so I'm no help. sorry man

I say, salvage what you can & try & grad another Pathy. I've had mine for more than 10 years & when the time comes that its ca-put, I'm swapping junk over to another one. Sorry to hear about the Pathy, always sad when one gets hit & destroyed instead of just running its course & eventually dieing on its own

I've taken the rear seat bottoms when hauling s rap metal & when I did my flooring in bed liner

He's no traitor he's just smarter than the rest of us... & sorry I don't really know anyone lookin for an R50 right now. I guess I need to get off my arse & build a front winch bumper this spring & install my SFD lift & install my snorkel, oh & install my lockers... too much crap not enough time

I have a 15" Kove Armageddon running 2000 watts & I've been runnin the Bose stock unit on it for the last 2 or so years, so yeah its do-able. Theres plenty of base with the Bose headunit but not much highs or mids

Did you get rid of the R50 Morpheus?...

I've ran 33x10.5 on 15x8 rims with 3.75" of BS with no rub on the strut tower & very very little on the front fenders with the 2" AC lift

Damn, Dean beat me to it, in all fairness he probably said it better than I could anyhow. As someone who has had gone through water crossing that wasn't as high or higher than my hood & destroyed my engine because of it (see the sig pic). You can always route it though your glove box, this is something I've thought of. But alas I have conceded to functionality over looks with the snorkel, sorry. I want a wheeler thats capable not a driveway/poser queen...

15x8's with 3.5 of BS last time it was clean (like 2 or so years ago)...

BS of a wheel would only matter if you plan on running a wide tire. If you'd run something like 35x10.5 you wouldn't need a low amount of BS but if you'd run like a 33x12.5 you'd still need a rim that was like 10" wide with like 3.5" of BS no matter if it was 33" or 35" tall. Height is a matter of fender clearance, width is a matter of strut clearance. And BTW who cares what it "looks like" as long as it performs well.

I get mentally handicapped flex sometimes... big whoop wanna fight about it, lol

Yes you can! It just becomes a show with this machine...

Yeah you say that but sometimes it just happens.

I thought it was a joke too Adam. I have no anti-sway bars (front or rear) so I might try this out just for a bit easier ride.

LOL, they actually had a frame in the early 90's, thats your difference. As far as the brush guard goes, "no" the rear hitch I would venture to say "no" but I've not actually tried that one, so don't take my word for the hitch.

As long as its functional & you like it who cares. Good job.

yeah but correct me if I'm wrong but he only has a 2" lift at best. Thats not a 6" lift. So like I said, stick witht he 32's unless you want to cut a bit. Hell I could run 34's on the 2" lift, its just a matter of cutting a ton of fender (which I'm not adverse to)