GhostPath

They are wired to an inverter (came with the set) that I spliced into the lighting circuit - specifically, I tapped off the lines going into the dashboard lighting dimmer rheostat using T-taps (DO NOT USE SCOTCHLOCKS). The inverter itself is attached to the underside of the dash at a support beam with heavy duty outdoor-grade 3M *gray* doublesided foam sticky tape (Home Depot, $4 if you don't already have a roll, has a red plastic backing that you peel off). Slots right in the space there like it was made for it: The wires were routed around the side of the instrument cluster and down to the inverter through a pre-existing hole. On the other, exposed side of the underdash panel, I attached the dimmer/color controls for the overlays. It already has a 3M adhesive back, so all I had to do was wipe down the area with alcohol to clean it, let it dry, then apply the switch panel. After install:

Well, the guy that sold me this one has one for a 93: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Nissan-1993...20710QQtcZphoto

This week's project was dealing with the bad steering wheel I had and improving the dash visibility/legibility. I fitted a steering wheel out of a base model S13 240SX (nearly direct fit, needed some trimming of the column clamshells) and Indiglo-type gauge faces (which can be set to mimic the green/white illumination of the rest of the dashboard). They work great. Total cost: Wheel, $25 from salvage yard. Gauge overlays, $25 shipped from eBay. Time: about two hours to get it all in and working. Video of gauges cycling from minimum brightness to max, from green to blue and back. The camera really can't capture it very well, this is the best I can get.: Yeah, I know the gauges are a little ricey, but the old stock dashboard just isn't all that great at night.

I have a client that's a print shop, they have photorepro gear as well as access to a tabloid scanner. It won't happen until next year, though.

It is most informative. There are comprehensive wiring maps, excellent diagrams, and good explanations. Only two problems with it, and it makes me understand why these are so rare. 1. It's 11.75" x 16.5". 2. The diagrams are ridiculously large. They are detailed and easy to read, though. Making copies, digital or otherwise, is going to be a bit of a problem... If anyone needs some answers from the wiring diagram manual, I'll be happy to assist. Just don't ask for entire page scans, because that's just not going to happen; it won't fit on my scanner.

This is what the original factory winch guard looked like:

I've looked at them, and it doesn't look like that at all. The sidewall looks more or less straight up. I've been thinking about it, and I *might* go to a 275 or 285 width, but keep the height the same. Either way, Yokohama says that a 265 can safely be installed on wheels 8.5-10.0 inches wide. A 275 can be used on 9.0-10.5" wide wheels, per them... Like I said, I'm concerned more about the wheel itself scraping on critical parts of the undercarriage.

I have someone locally who's offering me a screaming deal on some wheels and tires - on the condition that I only take them if I can use them and don't sell them. They are 16x10s with new 265/70R16s on them. Essentially, those are 31x10.5's (30.61x10.43), so I know from reading here that since the SEs had those as an option they should fit in terms of tire dimensions. My concern is over the backspacing; they are 4.5" backspacing. Will these have any issues with rubbing on steering, suspension, or braking parts on my 90 WD21 SE? Will the 10" width cause any problems for the bearings or the hubs? I've done some searching and there seem to be conflicting answers. Note that I will never be mounting tires larger than this on the truck at all, so please do not keep potential future expansion in mind as there will not be any. Rapid replies would be appreciated so I could take advantage of this. Thanks!

Don't you need to identify your engine first?

Throttle-body fuel injection version = VG30I Multi-port fuel injection version = VG30E - pictured above.

For us, the Magnaflows will be the most durable, and you can get them from vendors on eBay, new, for a lot less than MSRP.

That pic is from when I was looking at it as a potential purchase. I can assure you that all the fluids have been changed since then. In addition, as soon as it gets warm, all the brake components are going to be replaced with new and/or upgraded components: EBC Sport rotors, Goodridge braided stainless steel brake lines, new hydraulics all around, DOT 4+ brake fluid. I'll also be swapping out the drum brake rear for the disc one.

The US-market 1990 models all have port fuel injection, not throttle body fuel injection. It should look like this (except hopefully cleaner): It looks a bit different than a VG30I, which is what the throtle-body variant's designation is. The engine pictured above is a VG30E, original to my truck. "Looks like a Mitsu engine"??? Sure, just like all V8s look alike...

That would be no. There is a demonstrable difference, both on the dyno and on a flow-bench. See this: http://images.magnaflow.com/05news/magazin...f/catalytic.pdf I would avoid having work done at this man's shop.

I think there was a factory winch bumper, but I'm pretty sure that wasn't it.

See this thread: http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=16223 Bottom line is that you should replace your cat with a modern free-flow unit. Avoid the ticket, avoid polluting, and get all the performance for not a lot of money.

On my 90 WD21, I need to find a wire behind the instrument panel to tap to sense when the dash lighting is illuminated. I searched and can't find any good information, or a wiring diagram. Anyone have any ideas?

OK, beam pattern time! To compare, here's some from msavides (sorry, I borrowed them because I have no before pics). Note that these are best case scenario for the STOCK lens and reflector combos - msa installed HID lights in his and this is the best he could get: Remember, those are with HIDs in them, so that's as good as the originals will ever get. Notice the narrow beam pattern and vague cutoff, the flares and hot spots. Now, here are the STOCK bulbs with my NEW clear headlights. I do have them aimed a bit high, but notice the nice broad beam pattern, relatively even distribution of light, and decent cutoffs (as decent as DOT legal lights will ever get). And this is on low-beam only - and my camera isn't the best at capturing it. They actually extend further out to the sides than the camera was able to capture, so the beam pattern is nice and broad.

Just to update and close the thread, here's the new thread where I got those clear-lensed headlights and installed them on my WD21: http://npora.ipbhost.com//index.php?showto...mp;#entry274210

It is a clear film that you apply over your headlights, much like tear-offs on a helmet visor. Or kind of like window tinting, just clear and on the outside of the lens. This stuff keeps the lens from oxidizing and from getting scratched. You can obtain it from many tinting shops, or simply get it from eBay (though I don't see any on eBay for the WD21 at the moment, there were tons listed last week). Here's an example of the stuff: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/2005-2006-2...sspagenameZWD1V And here's a high priced set: http://www.stickercity.com/store/product.php?productid=18554 A more reasonably priced set: https://www.xpel.com/products/headlight_pro...p;submodel=1292

I haven't gotten any night pics of the beam pattern yet. Before, all I had was two small dim pools, pretty much worthless. They will scratch, just like all the other polycarbonate lenses. However, they are more flexible and less prone to shattering than our original glass ones. That said, to avoid scratching you can purchase some vinyl headlight protection film, which I am going to do. And, of course, you can polish minor scratches right out. I should add that the R51's lenses (and I think the late R50's) are polycarbonate just like these.

Then your throttle switch is having problems - and what you're doing is smacking it the first time which lets it "see" the second.

Just added better "after" pics to the album. Here's a couple.

I just installed a headlight upgrade - I installed new clear-lensed units, the originals just sucked rocks. The problem isn't the amount of light but rather that the light pattern sucked and most of the light is diffused by the badly fluted lenses. I find that installing higher output bulbs is a diminishing-returns proposition in these types of fixtures. Old: New: I got them from eBay. There are several vendors there, so shop around. There are some you should avoid - do NOT buy from motorblvd or yishiau on eBay as I had bad experiences with them. I finally bought mine from acemotors700 even though they were one of the more expensive vendors. I paid that premium to get them right away (one of my original lights was cracked), $150 including shipping. You can find them for $100 shipped occasionally. The lights come with new mounting brackets. There is a bolt on the back of the bracket on each that sticks out too far and needs to be cut off. Here's the original bracket, with a stud just short enough to allow the bracket to fit flush against the radiator support. Here's how the lights come: And here's how they look after the stud has met Mr. Dremel: Other than that, they go on without problems. For those of you with HID conversions for the original lights, these use the same 9004/HB1 bulbs as the originals (and if you need a new conventional bulb, they come preloaded with Philips 9004's already in them). For those of you with higher power bulbs, be advised that the lenses are some sort of polycarbonate and may melt with super high output bulbs. HID users need not worry as they run cooler than halogens. You don't really need more powerful bulbs anyway - the beam pattern from these are MUCH better, close to what a good stock system does in a new car. Fixed the problem entirely without having to rewire the nose of the truck or put a larger power drain on the alternator. More pictures here.

NEVER disconnect a power cable on an EFI car while it's running!!!!! Among other things, such as possibly causing a short or surge which will FRY your ECU, it will almost certainly toast your alternator's solid state regulator if it's not dead already. Just take the car to AutoZone, they will test your charging system in the car for free. Of course, if you WANT to blow up your electronics, you're more than welcome to do so...