mjotrainbrain

Two 'fun' things after school: 1. Friend of mine started his 3rd Dakota to let it warm up. When he closed the door it locked. Apparently this was an issue he knew about but only happened occasionally. Luckily I had time, so I drove him home and back to school to get the spare. 2. It was raining by the time I was able to head home, and some jack#*& in a VW Golf was on the ramp behind me. It was a long curving ramp. He nearly spun out, and I thought it was an accident. Still made me nervous to be around him since it was front wheel drive and I was rwd and having no trouble...he did it two more times, and then once we were on the highway he whipped around me, probably close to 100mph in heavy traffic in the rain...I'm real glad I didn't lose my Q today!

I have a brake line from a Nissan pickup (D21 I think?) that supposedly fits, and is definitely quite a bit longer than stock. This is only a solution for the rear. If you're interested I can go find mine and give you the part number. Haven't installed it yet because I still have stock shocks.

If what RCWD21 doesn't work I can give info for getting to the pump. I had to change my whole reservoir because it broke in an accident this last winter.

Looks good! Is it just a tarp and some poles?

The only times I've heard of people having issues with XJ axles is when they have 35's+, are locked, and doing extreme wheeling recklessly. With some common sense, well placed upgrades, and reasonable tire size, a D30 would last just fine in my opinion. If there was a way to use an XJ axle then doing an SAS would suddenly become a lot more attainable for a lot more people; Waggy D44's aren't all that common anymore. Only one that I could find for sale, and the yard wants $360 for it, with 2.XX gears and plenty of rust. XJ axles are available left, right, and center for next to nothing. Not that I plan to do an SAS anytime soon though.

If you're considering SAS I think everybody on here is pretty excited, seeing as you have a tendency to document things extremely thoroughly. Go for it!!! In regards to using front Jeep links, them being too short wouldn't be a concern IMO since so many long arm kits are available.

Turning out good! It'll be a nice and clean engine bay when it's all done. Mine's all muddy so I'll be jealous...

From what I understand that only works in the rear diff, not the front for some reason. He could do 4.9's in the rear and an SAS with 4.88's in the front though!

It's an Acura CL and then the license plate...this guy's clever! Not quite sure if it's forum kosher though...

Installed a new CV axle and Warn hubs. I can already tell that the resistance is way less and the steering is way lighter. So far very happy with the upgrade. Looks cool too.

With the subframe set on jackstands and the tire removed, I was able to move the suspension up and down by placing the jack under the ball joint. I just had to keep slowly moving it up until I found the sweet spot where the sway link had some slack, at which point I was able to tell that mine was very loose.

I don't think so, the stock breather hose can still be seen at the top of the diff. What is it??

That's a really cool pic! The lighting worked out great, with the hole in the clouds and everything.

Thanks! Just have a few more things to do then I'll be putting up some before and after shots.

Those are the size that mine came stock with as well. If you throw that number into a site like https://tiresize.com/metric-tire-conversion/ you will find that your stock tire is 29.5x9.6R17, roughly 30x9.50R17.

Definitely ready enough to get you hooked on offroading, but needing upgrades to really be ready. Luckily I was with a group of people, and one of them who looked like he came straight out of Duck Dynasty was able to help me get it running and kinda fixed enough to get off of the trail. Will be looking into a snorkel later this year or next, until then I'll be taking it easy on the water.

The stock system is certainly designed to drain water if any gets in, but mine certainly wasn't due to the holes being plugged with mud. I figured this solution would be better because instead of the water being able to come in right by the tire (I don't have the front part of my inner fender due to my bumper; this probably wouldn't have happened stock) it has to go way up in the engine bay, and I don't have much mud splattered in there usually. I try to take it easy with deep mud anyway. This was what prompted me to do this mod; happened in a hole about a foot deep with a pretty solid bottom, so it's not like I was pushing my luck compared to what I've done in the past:

Looking good! Should be real purdy when it's all put back together.

Man, that really sucks! That almost happened to mine a few weeks ago. This is the fix I did for the time being.

Thanks guys! Just need to 'massage' the inner fenders a little and it'll be able to park in less than 5 maneuvers, haha.

Good idea, I'll do that.

Yeah, it's definitely getting some rust already. I'm planning to do it next weekend since I'll be camping this weekend. I'll probably be doing the hubs and CV shaft as well as studying for exams in between coats, so it'll be a busy weekend. Edit: Oh, and thanks, 'preciate it!

Thanks! I hope to get it painted next weekend.

Here it is!!! Sorry for the poor quality, I'll try to get some good ones later.