PathyAndTheJets

Got the T-bar soaking in some penetrating oil in prep for re indexing to correct the sag.

Most people don't realize how much pressure is in a brake system. Upwards of 2000 psi under hard braking. I don't recommend the copper ez bend lines either. I see them blow the fittings off fairly frequently. I also see a lot of people fix lines with compression fittings, which also are labeled on the package not for automotive brake system use. I understand that flaring line is a pain, bending it is a hassle, but I wouldn't want to rely on a compression fitting rated for maybe 700psi to stop 4,000 pounds of vehicle in an emergency situation.

My buddies Pathfinder went full rich after some oil from his k&n filter got on it and started catching crud. Cleaned it, ran beautifully again. But that may be because a liquid was on the wire rather than dry substances.

Fouled Maf should run rich, it's a hot wire MAF right? Gunk requires more amps to keep the wire hot, tricks PCM into thinking there's lots of air flow, throws mixture rich.

I bet it's the same, but there is a residual pressure check valve somewhere in the line for drum systems.

Yeah, if you take off the air cleaner housing, the mass air flow is screwed into the side of the throttle body. http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/23251-tbi-component-listing-loctaions/?do=findComment&comment=772279

Yeah they use them for universal drain plugs after the quick lube monkey strips out the pan.

Make sure you replace the races. It's easy, you'll want to buy a brass drift to get them out. The brass won't scratch or dent anything. You can drive them in the same way as well, alternating sides so it goes in evenly. You'll also need a new inner wheel seal. The old race works well for driving that in. You also want to fill the void between the outer races with wheel bearing grease. You'll need a spanner wrench to adjust the wheel bearing as well.

The drums should be adjusted to drag slightly. You should feel some resistance, and hear the shoes making a shhhhft sound as you turn the wheel. The brakes auto adjust as you apply the parking brake as well.

What weight of oil did you use? No oil leaks? I've noticed on my pickup that I have lower oil pressure with synthetic, I swapped it out for the same weight of synthetic blend and the oil pressure stays at 30-45 psi while running. You might try changing to a high mileage oil, either Castrol or Valvoline. They're both syn blends. The molecules of synthetic are smaller than a conventional oil, so the oil tends to get squeezed out the sides of worn bearings.

Just be sure to pull the coil wire off of the dizzy before you test. Compression readings should be within 15 percent. If you have a low cylinder, put a bit of oil in it. If the reading jumps up significantly, your rings are the issue. If not, you may have a leaky valve.

You could buy a compression tester for like 30 bucks at an auto parts store.

New ball joints and CV shaft time. The old one was pretty blown out. New parts!

Try swapping a wire from a good cylinder and see if the issue follows it. Any carbon tracking or erosion on the cap or rotor?

You might try a spray like DeOxit on it. I use it on my guitars all the time. It cleans and protects from future corrosion. Got the scratchy sound out of the potentiometers.

The 9004 bulb is a dual filament bulb. The low beam filament is out. Replace it, or swap the bulb from the other side and see if it follows. Or take the bulb out and look at it. You will see the little wire broken.

I just removed the compressor on my 84 pickup when I pulled the engine. Tied it off to the side with some wire. Lines were fine.

The fuzz on the magnet is normal. Automatic transmission fluid is red. Manual transmission fluid is usually a gear oil, which resembles a thick motor oil. For these trucks you need to get a GL4 gear oil. Not GL5/GL4. The GL5 destroys the syncros. Based on the Teflon tape it's been replaced.

The point of a gasket is to seal. I prefer rubber gaskets, but the paper ones will seal if they're properly prepared.

The timing belts changed in 93 if memory serves me correctly. Pull the crank and cam sprockets off and transfer them over so you get the better timing belt design.

I usually skip the sealant goo. A couple dabs of weather strip adhesive to hold the gasket to the pump, set it on something flat to keep the gasket set, clean up the surface real nice, install. Torque fasteners to spec. Haven't had any leaks. I don't like risking a chunk of rtv clogging something up. Worked wonders with the thermostat.

Make sure it's full of transmission fluid. Check while running in park. Not super familiar with the Pathfinder autos, but if it's a cable actuated throttle valve I'd make sure it's not binding, and that it's adjusted. Did the loss of power feel like it went into neutral, or it was slipping? Or was it bogging? It sounds much more like a transmission or engine issue. It's hard to screw up a transfer case. Assuming it has fluid.

Let me start by explaining drive line wind up. When you go around a corner, your wheels turn at different speeds, as they travel in separate arcs, which is why automobiles have differentials. In 2wd, the front wheels are free to roll as they please. But when you drop it into 4x4, a gear is engaged and the front driveshaft now receives 50% of the available torque, the other half of transferred to the rear wheels. The driveshafts can only spin at the same speed as they are effectively locked together. So, when you turn, the front wheels take a wider arc than the rear, therefore they have to travel at a different speed. With the drive shafts locked together, the wheels cannot rotate at different speeds. Then the drive train components act like a torsion spring, storing energy until the force exceeds the traction of the tires, and it "crow hops" or a component fails. That torsional force can make it extremely difficult to take the transfer case out of gear, as the engagement sleeve is being forced against the gear teeth. If you Jack up the wheels, the torsional force is released, and the lever should move as normal.

Generally they are very reliable. I've seen shoelaces and bailing wire used in a pinch to limp home. I wouldn't recommend doing that for a long period, as the clutch is designed to slip at a certain rpm to reduce stress on the fan.