PathyAndTheJets

I also have one.

Yeah. I was about to warranty them out, and then I saw all the lettering was upside down. Flipped then around, rode 100% better.

You're not SASed are you? The front ones only go on one way. I bet the rear ones are upside down. The fat end goes down, that's where the oil reservoir is.

Sounds like an exhaust leak to me, you could get a mechanic's stethoscope to narrow down whether or not its coming from the head. Look for any blackening on the exhaust, that'll point to a leak in that area.

You might check your rear bushings for play, tires inflated properly? On the ranchos is the canister side down? I've made that mistake, truck rode like you're describing.

You could spend 20 bucks to replace it? Or pull one at a junkyard and put it in. But if you really need to by pass it you can cut the wires off the plug and butt splice them together.

Limp mode limits the rpm to 3k All those mixture heaters burn up at some point. Mines burnt and now unplugged. I doubt that's the issue. Is your timing correct?

I'm not totally familiar with the jatco auto, but most other 4 speeds will coast in high gear. A one way clutch will freewheel when the drive train is being pushed by the wheels. It sounds like it's engine braking, which is usually done by engaging a band or clutch, usually triggered by a drop into low. I'd start with the brakes though. Especially the drums. Most people struggle with them, and I've seen them put together wrong multiple times. My bet is that they're dragging, which is probably making the transmission feel weird when the torque converter tires to lock up.

My power steering pump shaft had a lot of play, so the pulley would go sideways under load and the belt would squeal. If you loosen the belt try pushing the pulley back and forth. It shouldn't have much play, like maybe .020" I think a bushing went out in mine, i just swapped pumps out though.

That is some fine fab work. Can't wait to see it finished! What kind of steel are you using? And how much does that thing weigh roughly? Just curious for future plans.

You gain approach, break over, and departure angle, then you have more clearance for larger tires. But you wear everything out prematurely.

I'd start by double checking the vacuum line routing. You said you swapped one onto the fuel pressure regulator, which from what I gathered from a quick glance at my spare fuel pump, is integral to the pump. Could be wrong but I didn't see it on the vacuum diagram in my FSM either. But if I am incorrect in that, the fuel pressure reg should have full vacuum supply.

Yeah. The difference in height between the bottom of the steering stop on the control arm and the center of the pivot bolt should be between 1 3/4 to 1 7/8 of an inch. It looks like yours is almost on the bump stops. That tool should work, I'd still heat it up a bit to soften the adhesive.

Wow, super clean truck! Looks like the torsion bars sagged out on the front. Stock should sit close to level with the rear. If it's glued, a heat gun and some patience, with a follow up with an adhesive remover wheel would be your best bet.

The shop had a keg of it laying around, and I was a few ounces low. The license you need for r12 is the same that you need to legally work on any automotive a/c system. Costs 19 bucks and you have to pass a test.

R12. No typo.

Have you checked codes on the PCM? Here's a write up on it. http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/21-ecu-self-diagnostics-for-87-95-pathfinder/page-4?do=findComment&comment=770992

Put on new calipers and brake hoses, then topped off the refrigerant. Full charge of r12 now.

How full is the master cylinder? If it's pretty low it might flicker around corners because the fluid sloshed away from the float for the level sensor. The clutch interlock switch also turns the brake light on. Maybe that's broke and making contact?

Anything suspension. Shocks, clean out strut rod bushings, make sure the strut rod mounting hardware is tight, sway bar links.

Clutch type limited slip is locked in until breakaway torque is reached. Which is about 120ftlbs on wd21s? So on dry pavement around corners the clutches will slip and allow the wheels to turn at different speeds.

Cranked the torsion bars back up to a little higher than stock and aligned it. What a difference an inch makes.

It works. It requires a bit of practice, but basically it's trying to even out the resistance so you can spin both tires rather than just one. If anything it saves wear on the diff since the spider gears aren't spinning nearly as fast. Another trick if you're just a one wheel wonder is to threshold throttle. You give it gas until you lose traction on that wheel, then back off till you get it back, then repeat until moving. Works well in the snow. A locking device is going to out perform those methods though.

I'd use por-15 then paint over it with whatever paint you'd like. I've had good luck with vht rollbar and chassis paint.