CDN_S4

It is actually. It is on this forum. As a matter of fact, I'm pretty sure there are diagrams with angles etc in my build thread Sent from my iPhone using Crapatalk

Yes...officially But there are some people that made their own kits. Just a PITA

Tons of options. I prefer any clamp style window mount. Just google search it and find something you like. The only advice I can give in terms of stuff to stay away from is vent clip mounts, those don't hold up off-road. And don't cheap out either because a good window suction mount needs to be solid, like a GoPro suction mount. I've had cheap ones and they just stopped working after a while. You could also consider cigarette lighter mounts, holds your phone and charges it. Something like this: http://www.amazon.com/UNPAINTED-MOUNT-WITH-SUCTION-GRIP/dp/B006QRHZJK/ref=zg_bs_2407778011_33 or this: http://www.amazon.com/VicTsing-Charger-iPhone-Samsung-Smartphones/dp/B0177T3DO6/ref=sr_1_1?s=car&ie=UTF8&qid=1452735108&sr=1-1&keywords=cigarette+lighter+phone+mount

Seems that way...I've emailed Andrew to find out what's going on. It's possible he might have moved on. We'll see if I get a response or not.

If you follow the writing on the sticker then they should be body up with the rubber part on the bottom. But since I prefer keeping that part out of the mud, I've always mounted my Bilsteins (2nd pair now - first was too short for the 6" lift) with the body down and the rubber up. It will fit both ways I guess, but like I said, I've always mounted them body down. You are the second guy now that says KRFabs is no longer taking orders. That's a real bummer, he was the only one that made an actual full kit.

I used the WJ coils in the rear with these Bilstein shocks and the match is perfect. Sent from my iPhone using Crapatalk

Sorry off topic, but what is that tire pressure gadget you have installed there? Looks good! Also interesting that you have the manual climate controls in a 2001+ or was that normal for base model perhaps? Sent from my iPhone using Crapatalk

Had to get a new Windshield today. Had a crack that spread in the cold temperatures with the heat inside the vehicle. Gone is my Pathfinder decal and zombie hunting permit. Sent from my iPhone using Crapatalk

I figured that might happen, and I anticipate it to happen to me too since the one I bought only cost $9 while there were some for $300+ LOL. So yeah, I will likely end up using the stepper bit too.

Today I replaced one of the wheel studs on the carrier that was bent. Put a second coat of paint on the 3 bumper pieces. Cut out the 3 pieces which are outlined on the inside of the bumper, AND I discovered that the metal where these pieces attach into is thicker and comes out more than any other part of the trunk surround. This shows IMO that the body is likely the same, wether or not it came with a swing out. Despite Hawairish's findings of allegedly no support behind the taillight between models that came equipped vs non equipped, makes me wonder if they are all the same after all. When I looked into the holes of the donor Pathy the holes didn't seem all that deep, it didn't appear to be anchored into anything. Either way, from Hawairish's experience these carriers hold up really well. One step closer: Now all that's left to do is finish the paint on the carrier and wait for the rivets and bolts to arrive so I can start drilling. Also I couldn't find a 13.5mm drill bit. But I also only checked in one Canadian Tire. So I ordered one from Amazon. Sent from my iPhone using Crapatalk

Are these the right ones? Which length did you go with? http://www.mcmaster.com/#metric-class-10.9-steel-bolts/=10lyyuz

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My understanding was that was for the rivets, didn't quite read it to also get the corresponding bolts. All good, I'll place another order with them. Are these bolts a specific grade?

Yes that's a great idea! I used self tapping screws to mount the grab handle. But now that I got that rivet tool coming, I will re-do it with a threaded river and spacers like you described so that the handle can sit on the pillar trim. For that though, wouldn't I have to weld the spacers to the pillar to prevent leverage from pulling on the mount when someone is to lift their partial body weight into the seat? I think the bolt head needs to be as close to the solid pillar as possible. I do have those stepper drill bits. It's just that this required square holes, which due to my shotty measuring had to be made bigger than necessary. Sent from my iPhone using Crapatalk

Oh ok. Is there a specific grade of bolts I should get? Sent from my iPhone using Crapatalk

Did you end up using longer bolts or did you reuse the OEM bolts? I was planning/hoping to reuse the OEM ones. They came out completely rust free, still covered in locktite from the factory. So far I've ordered the 10M and 8M rivet nuts, the rivet nut tool and grommets. I am planning on locating the license plate to the trunk as those that have the carrier from factory, but instead of the big bulky OEM frame, I will just use a spacer in the back to make up for the uneven surface and use an LED license plate light that I bought for my spare carrier where it is currently mounted.

Did you require a special tool to insert the rivets? Their website talks of a "tool" which links to a variety of tools. Can you just run me through the actual hole drilling and riveting process? Seems simple enough but I don't wanna mess anything up. Also, can you insert the link for the other rivets, the 8mm ones for the 3 bumper pieces? Thanks buddy!

While I was at the JY, there are 4 good donor vehicles for me that have pretty much all the parts I'll ever need. I just recently had my dad for a visit and he had a hard time getting in and out of the truck and that I should install a handle. Well I took a rear one out of an 02 SE and mounted it in my front passenger A pillar. I didn't measure properly the first time, which means I ended up cutting out 2 big chunks to seat the handle flush against the pillar. It's not very "pretty" so I might just go grab a new piece of trim to make it nicer. The rest of the day was spent prepping the rear swing out bits and pieces for paint. Sent from my iPhone using Crapatalk

Next project: OEM tire carrier retrofit. First this will need some TLC to get looking new again. Then some blind nuts and drillavaganza to mount it all up.

Patrick, where did you get your blind nuts from? I can't find any locally. I will have to order online. I just want to make sure to get the same ones as you have. I found a carrier on a JY and picked it up for $40 CAD. All I need is the blind nuts. Sent from my iPhone using Crapatalk

See my pic above of the Bilstein shock packaging. That gives you the info for the 5" longer shocks. And yes, relocating the mounting of the shocks on the axles would work too. Just makes me wonder why most car manufacturers that use this type of setup always seem to mount them low like this? Sent from my iPhone using Crapatalk

While the 3 prong ring in its proper position and the bulb seated in the ring causes the diodes to be sideways, it is possible to fit the ring in a way that will allow the bulb to sit with diodes up and down. Unfortunately the bulb doesn't fully lock in the seat in this case or else it would ait diagnonally. This seems to me like a manufacturing / design flaw. Or this happens on some vehicles but not on others that use the H4 type assembly. However all said and done, I managed to adjust the bulbs and they seem to be seated well enough. Time will tell. It's really hard to see in the light but the low and high beams now work as intended. Yeah I've got a messy garage lol Sent from my iPhone using Crapatalk

this is exactly what I'm thinking too, and I found out that's how it is meant to be. The thing is, when I inserted the 3 prong seat that the bulb then clicks into with a quarter turn, they always ended up sideways. Only explanation I have is that the 3 prong seat (which is supposed to fit only one way) actually fit in the wrong way, causing the bulbs to lock in place half a rotation too far.

Found my own answer. Good read for anyone interested in this mod. http://betterautomotivelighting.com/2014/02/23/a-first-look-at-the-new-led-headlight-conversion-kits/ Sent from my iPhone using Crapatalk

Can you take a close up picture of your bulbs? Mine have diodes on 2 sides, one side for low and one side for high beam. When seated properly the diodes are on the sides of the bulb. This doesn't seem to add a lot of range to the high beam, just brightens the low beams. I tried to rotate them so that the diodes are up and down but didn't get them to sit right. Sent from my iPhone using Crapatalk