hawairish

Yeah, I'm certain you had to take the BFH approach. I can seen your pic that because of all the rust, that's why you didn't have to cut anything either. Your truck must've known that eventually you'd get the bracket.

Update update update... So as part of a seemingly not-stop weekend overhaul on another member's truck, we installed the 2nd tire carrier on his, and it also turned out just fine. Amazing how much faster it goes finally having help! Didn't do anything different, everything felt very solid. He also put his own weight on it. Small observation on his...he has a 2002 SE that did not have the wiring pigtail for the door switch. Completely missing. I didn't take a look at his gauge cluster for the icon, mainly because it didn't matter. If you're planning/wanting to use the door switch, you just need to pull up the plastic sill piece (with 6 Phillips-looking plastic screws that aren't really screws at all) and look for the large circular grommet a few inches to the right of the striker. If you see a hole...you're missing the harness. If you have a rubber grommet, pull that up and the pigtail should be there. So I guess the real question is why an 04 SE would even have it? Other side note...because of the heavier-duty/replacement hinge pin (bolt), we couldn't install some taillight guards between the carrier hinge brackets. FYI in case anyone has or wants taillight guards that might be for sale very soon...

Yeah, that'd be a lot of work no doubt. Spent the last 3 days under the truck...the X/Fr R200 would need to use the R50 diff cover and have the bracket on the tube cut off, then some sort of cradle is doable. Can't mount to the crossmember because the rack and pinion is where it could otherwise mount without issue. But because the R50 axle mounts to two brackets with bushings, thinking that if you replace those with a custom bracket, the cradle idea isn't too far fetched...a bolt-on option. I may have to revisit this in the near future.

A 7-day discount window? WTH is that about? What happens if not everyone on the list buys within at window? Sounds like these guys have some other agenda. They're going to manufacture a bunch of Nissan Lokka's on a whim to re-stock supply like there's some ridiculously steady demand that they have to be prepared for within a week? BS. I have whatever vehicle they think uses their p/n NIS-FO-182 (but basically an 02 and 04 Pathfinder).

Curious to get your feedback: http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/40616-krypton-fabs-panhard-drop-bracket/?p=760650

I wouldn't drive it with that 2nd bolt in. Put whatever you can on it, even if a smaller dia. bolt...you need to sandwich it as best as possible. BTW, yours looks relatively bolt-on. My experience installing one this morning was far from it...I was extremely pissed at it. I'm writing up a product review now...maybe you can validate your experience on the write-up when done? Neat canopy! Will the lift gate put some stress on it when opened though?

Haha, too kind! And sorry about the delayed response...just completed a marathon 3-day truck overhaul for another R50 owner. Madness! Ok, here goes (long post, heads-up)... Everything worth knowing (specs, instructions, and parts info) is found in Propeller Shaft and Differential Carrier ("PD") section of the FSM. The most notable things are the specs and parts explosion. Best bet is to print the entire section for your mechanic. The specs are found in the Service Data and Specifications (SDS) section towards the end of the H233B subsection. It looks like this (for a 2004 Pathfinder): Somewhere before this in the PD chapter, you'll find either a full parts explosion for all the parts, or a smaller explosion like this (again for a 2004 Pathfinder): BTW, for a 1997 Pathfinder, the LSD is listed as having 5 friction discs, 6 friction plates, 2 spring plates, and no spacer (per side). It specs at 65-80 ft-lbs. Breaking down the parts: 1. Friction plate: stays stationary to the carrier 2. Friction disc: stays stationary to side gears 3. Spacer: some have a spacer that is equal in thickness to 4 plates/discs. It's just a big 6mm thick ring. 4. Spring: not shown in picture is a ring with a concavity. There are two of them per side (some older models only had one per); when the carrier is assembled, the spring plates will flatten and produce pressure. The friction plates sandwich the discs, and when the torque differs between wheels, the discs twist between the plates to create friction. Before ordering any parts, you should know the assembly order and thickness of each part...this requires disassembly. Note the list of part numbers above. Your LSD will consist of some combination of those parts. Most, if not all (except the spacer) will be 1.5mm thick. To thicken the stack, you simply replace the 1.4mm pieces (if any) or 1.5mm pieces with something thicker. The FSM specifies how thick that stack can be, so take note of your initial and calculated thickness. I found it easier to just find the nominal thickess (i.e., some will be 1.47mm thick, but treat them as 1.5mm thick) and see what parts can be replaced or rearranged. The "optimal" ratio of discs-to-plates is 5:6...this is the arrangement that uses the max number of friction surfaces. It is not necessary to have that setup, since you can supplement it with thickness in some cases. If you need to bring down torque (in my case, where I was hitting way over 300 ft-lbs at one point), you can keep the same stack thickness and reduce the ratio to 4:7. If you have 2:5, then you have the spacers and need to replace each with 3 discs and 1 plate. If you have 2:9, you need to replace 3 plates with 3 discs per side. Neither of these options are cost-effective, and might not be enough to get the desired numbers. Each disc/plate runs about $30-$35/ea from Nissan...it adds up quickly when you factor things per side. LSDs out of a WD21 will be a much better starting point. LSD parts for all H233B trucks/SUVs pre-2005 are the interchangeable. If using a WD21 diff, put your ring gear and side gears on the carrier, and swap it in. Of course, measure spec and see if it needs rebuilding (the FSM shows how to measure torque...may need to fab your own tool for measuring). Dialing in the right amount of torque took me several tries. It really depends on the starting setup. I had to buy several pieces to hit my numbers, but I also started with a weaker LSD. MY1PATH machined down some extra plates/discs as shims. That is another option if you have the means. ... On a parting side note, the vehicle overhaul done over the weekend included installation of a rebuilt 150 ft-lb LSD into another R50...the owner was very pleased with it. Mine also feels great. Any other questions, feel free to ask!

While there's no kit per se, you can buy thicker discs/plates from any Nissan dealership. Though, when I bought some the other month, national supply was getting low..5-7 weeks to get some from Japan, if available. However, the setup in the Pathfinder only uses 40% of the potential friction surfaces because it stacks plates together. If you replace every other plate with a disc, you instantly add friction. Make some pieces thicker, more friction. My adventure here: http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/40280-was-the-factory-lsds-breakaway-torque-any-good

Now you're talking. You know, I've been looking at the X/Fr version of the R200 for a while now, and I think it could be possible to make that bolt on. I'd have to see the clearance on the crossmember in front of the diff on ours, thinking that it could actually bolt to that. I'd also have to see where the snout on the diff is relative to the rear LCA mounts. A custom 'missing link' would provide bolting locations for the snout. If we could get that R200 into ours, not only would OE 4.9's be an option, but also more aftermarket gears.

They'd probably just count the number of people that use the discount code, though I'd think that mean they wouldn't ship anything until the quota was met.

Axle swap to what?

About 0 options, unfortunately, unless any of those aftermarket gears for R200s are really reverse cut (doubtful). You have the tallest OE gears already (4.636).

Will have to think about it over the weekend then. Have they issued a voucher for the $259? Maybe I could test that at their website to confirm. No local JYs?

True, but I'd think the tail would be too long to tilt down completely (at least with the t-case still on) so he may still need a tranny jack and suitable ground clearance. Even if cutting the radiator and support beams out, I'd think the t-case would also make the tail to heavy to level it with the picker, which might make it tougher to manuever/tilt/lift.

Makes sense on the superseded part. Hopefully it is better. What a deal. To be sure, they will do that price for the R200 version?? I'm thinking I might pick up a pair of them...already got an extra R200 in the garage, and will have another on Sunday. Might be easier to sell them pre-locked...

Sorry, what I was getting at is I wonder if a cross shaft from another R180 that lacks a long flat spot would fit yours, if one exists. The flat spot (being X% less material) is surely making it weaker. The R50's one has a long flat spot, too, which is why I think Lokka provides a replacement. I have the R200 Lokka, and have installed a pair of them. I know with they're different shafts. just thinking of ways to might improve your setup because of what I've read about the newer R180s.

1997 FSM...see SDS sections at end of AT and TF chapters for complete details.

The few write-ups I've scanned don't seem to mention it. From some other forums, I see that the R180 internals are a weak link and have cause some major damage to the diffs. I guess the nice part is that the Lokka replaces all the internals except the cross shaft. Hope that's a selling perk in itself if you plan to wheel it. Out of curiosity, do you have a pic of the cross shaft? The reason being is that the R50 has a longer flat spot on the shaft than ones for an Xterra (1st gen), which is essentially full cylinder except two spots. I suspect that the HD shaft is really nothing more than an X shaft, but I wonder if maybe you've got a better option.

Replace "Pathfinders" with "Nissans".

Does the R180 kit include a new HD cross shaft like the R200 does?

TJM has a rear air locker that's spec'd for a Patrol...which is a 33-spline H233B. The TJM (168PL04) and ARB (RD135) units replace the entire carrier, so they're carrier agnostic. You just swap the ring gear onto it, press on bearings, install in diff housing, and set lash. (Well, and also plumb air lines, install compressor, etc.) The LSD can be tweaked. I just swapped from open to LSD with a re-packed LSD. Hit >300 ft-lbs at some point, but re-arranged for 175 ft-lbs. Requires thicker discs/plates, but swapping plates with discs also helps. Steven at Rugged Rocks has also been trying to bring a rear mechanical locker to the scene for some while now. If it comes alive, it will likely require an open 2-pinion carrier. Lokka or ARB (RD202) for up front. Lokka installs in the open carrier, ARB replaces the carrier. ARB will likely require different shims. There's a Lokka group buy going on now for about $300 shipped...direct from Lokka, it's about $400. Also, your stock gears will have to suffice...I don't think you have an option. Unless the R&P that exist are spec'd specifically for an R50, they won't work...wrong cut. But you'll be fine at 31's.

Fun stuff. Welcome aboard! First question...when you say crappy stereo, you're talking about a stock radio, right? Any suspicions that someone's been working on the radio or any other electronic accessory and tapped into the wires back there? Everything routes through the area under/behind the radio. You can pull up the center console pretty easily just by removing some screws to see if the cable has been disconnected (or damage, or other). Getting the radio bezel off is a little trickier since the clips that hold it in are pretty snug (they were on mine)...I wedge in plastic cards and trim panel removers to take mine off.

I think that's a pretty good find. Though did the metal twist in, or was it bolted in? Wondering if he re-tapped the hole, or just cut of the stud and drilled a hole in the metal cap. The latter would be far easier. The OE look like this (shown upside-down): Bottom is a flat metal disc adhered to the rubber; disc has a hole in it for bolting to the chassis. Ah yes, that mangled thing. Ha, I think I knew it looked odd but didn't give it another thought until today. Of course, not that any of this is really important now. But, for those guys with chewed up bump stops (mine were also gnarly before replacement), this may be a cheaper replacement option.

Also, I might be interested in some of the LSD internals on your pulled diff if they're in decent shape.

Very easy. Jack up the axle, pull the wheels, disconnect the driveshaft (4 bolts), disconnect the brake lines at the wheel hubs, undo 4 bolts at each hub, pull the wheel hubs out maybe 6", undo 11 bolts on the diff, pull the diff. Reverse with your replacement, bleed brakes. EDIT: Ooops, don't forget to drain and refill the diff. And always open your fill plug before your drain plug. But to Kingman's point, if it damaged the axle shafts, it's nice having a full donor axle just in case, either for parts or full swap. Since your truck is disabled anyway, wouldn't hurt to try pulling the diff first to know what you need. My donor axle cost me about $250+100 core, but donor diffs were $135+5 core through my local JYs. You'll know pretty quickly if your axle shafts are toast. It would be a good time to replace seals, too. Probably not. Unless you strike gold and find one with a lunchbox or ARB inside! But the factory LSDs for your generation apparently had some good numbers. Not a locker by any means, but not slouches either.