hawairish

Here's the NHTSA bulletin: It's a very specific area of coverage near the strut.

No sweat! Totally agree...if this deal is a good one, and that's the extent of the problems, I would have jumped on it already. Definitely a good project if there aren't any major gremlins.

I've heard good things about it, but I've never really had to deal with anything beyond light surface rust that couldn't be wire-brushed and rattle-canned.

Yep, pretty much.

From what I understand from some of those NICO threads is that the automatic seatbelts, like those found some 240SX, have a lifetime warranty. Nissan provides sample warranty booklets at their website (https://owners.nissanusa.com/nowners/navigation/warrantyContent), and possibly more specific booklets for your vehicle if you've registered through their portal. From those, they indicate a 10-year warranty for seat belts. Any time I've had to remove the tensioner assembly (a couple times actually in different vechicles), it was bolted down pretty well. I don't recall any security Torx bolts like used on other SRS components. Obviously, proceed cautiously is attempting to maintain it yourself.

As for your maintenance items, I think you'll get a lot of answers, but really the best list you can get is probably from the Maintenance section in the FSM. This has all the general items to check. The Owners Manual has a similar section, "Maintenance and do-it-yourself". Both resources can be found online here: http://forums.nicoclub.com/pathfinder-qx4-general-information-and-q-a-t549378.html Those other items seem trivial to me: Window switch may be bad, have a bad ground, or the switch may just need some cleaning. Although the driver's switch works, the module may also be the culprit as the other switches are tied to it (because of the window lock-out switch). The FSM explains the circuits clearly, and provides troubleshooting steps. The rear hatch won't pop if the rear wiper is in use...or if the hatch thinks it's in use. Inside the wiper motor is a switch that is engaged when the wiper arm is resting on a black plastic piece below the window. Sometimes, the arm doesn't come to rest properly on it. Retry with the wiper arm in a better position (for testing, you can probably just let it rest below/off the resting piece). My truck had this problem; not only was the arm not resting properly, but the plastic housing on the wiper motor was cracked and preventing the internal switch from being engaged. I tightly taped it up (it wasn't very repairable by other means) and adjusted the arm position. No problems since. There are some additional maintenance items on the "all-mode" 4wd system. When functioning properly, it should be no different than the part-time system. However, there are more switches and sensors on the system, so the system itself is prone to more failures. Be sure to test it. Find a dirt/grass lot and give it a go.

Hahaha, no sweat! I had a similar moment replying to a thread the other day, right after I posted some anecdotal story, someone basically said, "Hey, just buy part this instead: link". Exactly what I meant to say, just needed (a lot) more words. So if I have time this weekend, I'll also pull the carriers and get some measurements.

Yes, they seem pretty similar, almost identical except for the carrier. Though, I usually proceed cautiously with some diagrams. I noticed that parts diagrams for the X diffs (not the FSM explosions you posted) have an inset picture showing the R50 diff, but with the correct explosions. Anxious to see the real comparisons. Keep us posted.

Good deal. As long as you're giving it some thought. Can't attest to the overheating. It's 100°F-120°F (38°-49°C) at least half of the year here in AZ, and I haven't experienced any problems on my 04 with 169K. It's all about maintenance.

I had the same problem with my switch. Had to press hard or repeatedly. Took it apart, cleaned contacts, checked continuity, switch appeared fine. Moot now because I changed radios and did not retain switch function. Oh, and if you go the same route and decide to delete the switch, there's a panel cover Nissan sells. Don't buy it. It doesn't fit without removing a bracket...or without removing the steering wheel as best as I can tell.

I'm with the other guys...that seems like a good deal, even if it does need some work. Of course, do your due diligence on other factors before purchase. "If it seems too good to be true, it probably is." Get a CARFAX Visually inspect VIN number plates for tampering or replacement. The General Information chapter of the FSM shows where all tags are located in the "Identification Information" section. Ask your insurance agent to run a VIN check for thefts, claims, salvage titles, etc. Come registration time, any unknowns may cost you big time (including confiscation of the vehicle if reported stolen!). If some guy was trying to sell me a truck for $1K, and was willing to drop 40% just to get a parking space...that's a red flag to me. (Of course, when living in Chicago, I saw parking spaces for condos going for $30K alone...no joke.) Selling it for that low is already questionable. KBB says a 161K mile 2001 LE is worth $3K US by private sale in fair condition in NE Montana. That's about $4K CAN in Saskatchewan where it appears tagged. Doesn't it seem suspicious that he's willing to sell it for just over 1/8th its supposed value, (assuming we're talking CAN$)?

You told your wife she's no Prom Queen!? I know what else will be rusting outside tonight! (Haha, I get what you meant! )

Haha, so you're collecting disc brakes, while I'm collecting differentials! Nothing wrong with having some back-ups. Yeah, I hate to be the bad guy on the responses, but when I read that much BS about brakes in general, I can't help it. That's what I hate about the NICO forum the most...so much bad information. Meanwhile, NPORA is pure gold! But anyway... So actually, my project—and really the basis for starting this topic—is to make a bolt-on solution for replacing the R50 diff with a WD22/D22U diff. I've been hinting about it on some threads, but I'm pretty serious about it now. It will either re-use R50 CVs, or allows for X/Fr CVs, which means lower operating angles for the CVs. It will also open the doors to all the gear options that we don't have. That's what I'm really after.

Like a bad haircut the day before Prom... Just kidding. Doesn't look terrible, but maybe it is time to re-think the fenders. I actually like those lines in general..similar to the new Tacomas. Which gets me thinking that maybe with some patience and a sharp blade, you can make OE or aftermarket flares from something else fit. Perhaps a 4Runner would be a better starting point because of the rear doors, but something without a cutout for the gas door. Just an idea. What you really need is a hand riveter, a pile of rivets, tin snips, some thin steel sheets, and some sealant. Patch those holes, then lather in POR-15. Ain't gotta be pretty. Otherwise, I'll start a poll thread about what rust-related nicknames we can come up for your truck.

That makes sense! You saw Fleurys' latest control arms, right? I like that setup a lot. Simple, effective. I saw his old aluminum ones for the first time just the other day...nice, but too nice?

Wow, you've got some neat pieces there. If you're interested in selling those disc-brake parts, or can provide more info about them, I think I may have 1 or 2 buyers (one of which I surely pissed off over at the NICO forums...http://forums.nicoclub.com/97-pathfinder-rear-rotor-kits-t602609.html. I'm all for a disc-brake swap, but one guy's "safety" concerns over drum brakes just blew my mind.) Anyway...back to topic. If the shafts interchange, and I expect they would, that's a good sign. A better sign if it has the 2-pinion 1-piece open carrier that should found in R50s. Basically, even though I know the WD21/2 diff is shorter than the R50, it helps to know if either the CV flange is the same, or even similar to the R50. For my project, I know I will need some sort of spacer/adapter on one or both ends of the diff. I'm planning to either re-use my CVs, or offset the diff a little more and use X/Fr CVs, which are a little longer and should fit the R50 wheel hub, considering the same manual hubs fit those models.

Never know until you try!

Hahaha you got a little parts graveyard there, eh? Dare I ask how that project went...or is going?? Maybe someone will give you a few bucks for the transfer case skid plate by the stump. But yeah, they look identical, with some very subtle differences (the cast near the pinion seal, for example). I suspect the CV flange on the X diff is the same as the R50s...would be great if it is.

Hahaha, yep, never seen that! I found the p/n for it (55490-4W020). It was only installed on R50s made between 01/00 and 09/00 apparently...a 9-month window for an entire generation of R50s! As for what it is...it is just another damper...that MSRPs at $110 each!!! Courtesy Parts wants $83 for it. You could eBay it and profit...if it weren't for the fact it is a useless part (clearly because no other R50 has needed it). Chop it off, and never look back.

Boom

If you remove it, yes. A few options, actually: Snorkel CAI Tacoma airbox mod (google it) For the latter two, you'll want to cover the opening where the duct and airbox pass through. Also, if you're looking for advice on what not to do in terms of bumper mounting, see my post here. I've got some pics of other aftermarket R50 mounts if you're interested.

The measurements for the area where the CV mounts to the flange would be great, namely: 1. Diameter and depth of the inner recess on the flange 2. The overall diameter of the flange 3. Bolt pattern of the flange...though despite being an odd shape, the short and long distances between any 3 adjacent holes ought to suffice?

Awesome, both of those response. Yep, never claimed to know my Z cars. So that's actually pretty good news...another possible LSD option, and likely more readily-ish available. I hadn't seen many clutch-type LSDs for R200's in general when I was doing some cursory searches.

Ballistic device...hahaha! Wrong! It's a plastic half-octopus! Actually, it's an air duct (seriously). At the top of it is an opening, and that opening feeds directly into your airbox, before the filter of course. Any heavier-than-air items, such as water and rocks, should drop into those "fingers". There are smaller holes in each that allow for water drainage. If you remove your airbox, you'll see what I mean. If you pull the wheel well liner, you'll see that it actually extends into that area to draw (stale) air. Couldn't tell you why it's all wonky-shaped. The sensor on it is an ambient air temp sensor. You shouldn't remove the duct unless you replace it with a snorkel. It's prone to cracking and fatigue like any other plastic, and I think Lurch (a member here) at one point hydrolocked his engine because this part failed and drew in water. Obviously, a decent amount of water in it won't drain, and will hydrolock. It's part 16577 on the diagram:

Is this it?