hawairish

Yeah, Nissan is silly with their trim conventions sometimes. Though, it doesn't look like those gears ever made it to a Pathfinder....I guess I would've expected some similarities between the models. You should be able to see the bolt patterns from the wheel wells...but judging by the truck I worked on yesterday, maybe the wheel well liners obstruct the view.

Very interesting! (Thanks for the VG correction, too.) Just came across a post of yours on another forum...86.5 Hardbody. Do your CVs have the 3 sets of 2 bolts, or the 5-star? I pulled some manual hubs today off a 93 Hardbody and noticed they had the same (similar) pattern as the R50, but maybe a little bit bigger diameter at the flange. Didn't get a chance to measure them. For some reason, I thought the CVs were 28 spline by then, but apparently not...

You may actually have the R180A. Looks like 4.11 (37:9) came with 85-87 VG30E and 90-92 KA24E 4WDs. Is your axle code CA41 (found on the chassis tag by the passenger firewall)? I'd be curious to know if your rear diff has a removable rear cover (C200 axle).

The axle won't work for you. Different splines (31 vs 33), different pan hard bar mount (R50 is mounted to chassis on LH side, WD21 on RH side), different HG43 (4.375 vs 4.363), and I believe even different springs and traction bar locations. But, all you need is the 3rd member...and it's an easy swap. You can also pull from any Hardbody pick-up up to 97. You can also swap in an LSD unit, and possibly the carrier on an HG46 (just install your ring gear on it). And you can keep your disc brakes, of course. What blew on your differential? Ring & pinion, spider gears, both? I happen to have an HG43 LSD from a 93 or 95 (not sure) Pathfinder in my garage. Depending on where you are in CA, and how long you can wait, it might be of use. I'll be in SoCal around the end of the month, and NorCal the beginning of October.

What's in the pile so far? If you want a much cheaper option for longer brake lines, a rear line from an X/Fr and front lines from a Rogue are just the ticket. Ask me how I know ($35 total @ rockauto.com). What I'm trying to say is I'd go nuts waiting that long. Maybe in that time, they can bring that website out of the 90's. Also...anyone else find it odd they don't indicate that all their prices listed are in CAN$? I mean, I know they're up north, eh. But it'd probably be better business (and less sticker shock) if they also showed approx. US prices (or again, at least note that). I was tickled when PayPal told me I'd be paying less than I expected.

Looking for a panhard bar drop bracket? Haven't installed mine yet...

I'm heading over to a yard tomorrow to take a bunch of dimensions and pictures of non-Nissan trucks/SUVs parts to feed some ideas and suspicions. If anyone has any requests/suggestions about possible parts fitment, speak up. Here's an inventory list of the place as of July: http://justtruckandvan.com/inventory/JTV-SS-Inventory-7-6-15.pdf In general, planning to get the following sorts of info, and then some: ID/OD spring diameters Front bumper dimensions and mounting styles If you actually need a part, also let me know. I'll have my tools so I can take apart some stuff.

Yeah, that's some bend. Looks nearly an inch off...bet that took a little effort to get bolted up? Think it's worth trying to bend it back before going through with swapping housings? Not that I wouldn't love to free up the garage space, but I wonder what progress you could make with a length of 2x4, a big bolt and some thick washers. Sounds rudimentary, but it's all about leverage. If it's worth swapping or you want to rebuild the LSD, I'm game for whatever—wrenching, meet, wheeling, etc. Buddy in Anaheim wants to hit Joshua Tree 9/19 or 9/20. Could try for something then, maybe even something closer to SoCal if you just want to wheel. Thinking if I head out Friday afternoon, wheel Saturday, head home Sunday afternoon, that might leave some wrenching time in the mornings. Of course, if you want to try to make it out this way, that works, too. Couple buddies have been posting up pics of recent trail runs around the state...getting a bit antsy to get out there. I need to find a local group to go with unless some other NPORA-ers come out of the cacti here. The mot recent roll-call didn't get far...

Yep, that's it...well, and the bearing caps of course. After that, though, there's a large spacer and the shims. Not supposed to need a case spreader, but mine was in there snug the other week. I think if I tipped it up at an angle and gave it some thuds, it'd probably fall out...onto my foot. Really, it's all kind of a pain .

As long as you know I'm pulling your chain! Seriously, it's been an awesome project. The envy of many, undoubtedly. How soon until those sliders get there??

That's exactly what happened on my 98 Frontier. Back before I knew how to change my own oil, the @$$ clown changing the oil ripped the sensor wire somehow (literally, ripped it with enough force to fray the wire strands) and just left it hanging. It kept grounding, triggering the light. Drove me crazy until I found it (and then I was furious to find it that way).

A bolt and 4 nuts, then LFH (BFH optional). As long as the internals aren't rusted, should be pretty easy. The driver's side flange is just held by the bolt in the center...17mm head I believe. You can stick a screwdriver or drift punch through one of the CV bolt holes and let it rest against the diff case to hold the flange stationary, but if that bolt's on too tight, you might bend the screwdriver/drift. I use a junk screwdriver for this. On the passenger side, remove the 4 nuts at the end of the tube, then give some mallet taps around the flange. In the parts diagram, everything from the bearing to side shaft is pressed together and will come out as one piece. The bearing is a snug fit inside the tube of course, so you'll need to give it some taps all around the flange to slide everything out evenly. Mine was a little difficult too, but not terrible...I tapped a small prybar between the tube end and the "extension tube retainer" in the diagram to start the process, trying not to damage the shims, then was able to mallet it out.

Hahaha, yeah Kyle's talking about the pinch weld below the rocker panels. It's got a straight edge, so you can get an idea of how level/raked the truck is. That is, presumably, if it too hasn't rusted off. (Ok, I'm done with the rust jokes...for now, hehe.)

You're talking about the attachment points on the axle where the lower traction/control arms are bolted? (So many names for the same things ). Unfortunately, the swap you've described won't be easy. Only some older WD21 axles had disc brakes, and the main thing that prevents it from being a direct swap is the panhard bar running in the opposite direction. There'd be some major fab work required. Then, the locations/angles/distances on attachment points and spring perches might be slightly different on the WD21 axle, you'd need that axle to already have an LSD (you'd want the WD21 version anyway; much tighter), and would have to swap over your ring and pinion gears. Lotta work! For the disc brake swap, however, you should just need the backing plate, calipers, and such, and the means to separate and press things back together. Lemay on the forum has some sets in his Quebec parts boneyard, and I've got some links about the process. I have an axle housing for a 96-01 in my garage...it's yours if you want it. I think one of the shock brackets needs straightening, but looks a bit easier than straightening the control arm brackets (which are straight already). I should be able to hammer/bend those tabs flat(ish). I also have an extra LSD that I'll be picking apart to see if I can improve on my LSD rebuild...will have some extra parts if you're interested in trying to improve your numbers, too. As for the logistics of all this, I've been meaning to get out to SoCal to get some wheeling in with a buddy who was out here the other weekend to overhaul his R50. We couldn't get his winch working, and ran short on time trying, so I told him I'd give that another go eventually. Perhaps we could do a garage day and then a trail day?

Go figure.

Quick question: you planning to stay in the WA for a while (years?). One thing to consider is what's going to be easier to get parts for if you need them. The diesel was never offered here, so parts availability (and possibly service) are slim stateside.

I'm not sure that was the case on the WD21, but I know what you're talking about on the Frontiers. I have a 98 2wd also...completely different frame from the 4wd. I was under the impression that the WD21s had the same frames. Someone else will need to confirm that, of course.

BTW, if you can get the VIN, you can check for recall items: http://www.nissanusa.com/recalls-vin#/

Nope, recalls don't expire to my knowledge.

Yeah, though a couple pics are just what you need to look for. I'd presume something similar for CAN, but not sure.

Here's the NHTSA bulletin: It's a very specific area of coverage near the strut.

No sweat! Totally agree...if this deal is a good one, and that's the extent of the problems, I would have jumped on it already. Definitely a good project if there aren't any major gremlins.

I've heard good things about it, but I've never really had to deal with anything beyond light surface rust that couldn't be wire-brushed and rattle-canned.

Yep, pretty much.

From what I understand from some of those NICO threads is that the automatic seatbelts, like those found some 240SX, have a lifetime warranty. Nissan provides sample warranty booklets at their website (https://owners.nissanusa.com/nowners/navigation/warrantyContent), and possibly more specific booklets for your vehicle if you've registered through their portal. From those, they indicate a 10-year warranty for seat belts. Any time I've had to remove the tensioner assembly (a couple times actually in different vechicles), it was bolted down pretty well. I don't recall any security Torx bolts like used on other SRS components. Obviously, proceed cautiously is attempting to maintain it yourself.