hawairish

Awesome, welcome back! Yeah, those tires could use some tread on them. You could probably get away with 245/65/16 with minor rubbing, and that'd be a suitable size with the OMEs (that's how mine came used). Keep us posted on the progress!

Ok, so I attempted it on my truck...and I understand the frustration now. Guess I hadn't noticed before, but the pinch weld where the weatherstrip goes overlaps the door panel more than I noticed previously. Had to look up a "hose removal tool"...looks to be just a pick tool. I can see how that would probably be the best option (it's basically what I was describing the straightened hanger for, but having tried that approach around the door sill, it is a little more difficult but I didn't have time to finesse it). It seems plausible that you could remove the interior handle to get some better access. There's a bolt holding it, but it must be pushed to the rear of the door in order to clear three hooks on the assembly. However, I tried it on mine and it seems like the rods make it difficult to slide the piece. I tried with a prybar, and felt I got about 50% of the way, but didn't want to risk breaking anything. You could break that off, but you're still a good distance away from the latching assembly. However, it would give you a way to pull the door panel away from the door in that area, perhaps with enough room to get some fingers and a screwdriver in there to poke around. But for sure, you'd be able to tell if one of the rods came detached (and could be used as a tool). For reference, here's what the back of the part looks like: A little hard to see it, but at the 12, 3, and 6 o'clock positions relative to the bolt hole are plastic hooks that slide into the door metal. Even if you broke those off, the center bolt hole would still hold it in place. A replacement is inexpensive (p/n 80670-3W405 or 80670-3W40A) if you're willing to break it. How does the interior handle door lever and lock lever "feel" compared to the driver's side?

And Kyle, don't forget to factor in any replacement seals/moulding that may get damaged during the process, as well as disposal of the old windshield. It's probably not something you can just set out for recycling (though I'm sure it's been tried!).

I don't necessarily disagree, but money being a factor, and technical aptitude permitting, it's not a horrible option. If I was in a pinch to get it done, and doing a little homework and investing in some tools saved me several hundred bucks, you bet I'd thinking about it. That's probably why most of us started working on cars in the first place...we couldn't afford (or justify) having a shop do the work, but we had most of the tools and confidence needed to give it a try. Since it's a safety item (and not just something to block the wind), it really boils down to how much you trust your own work and how thorough you are at researching the process...and in that regard, I'd argue it's on par with changing your own brakes (not the process of course, but the reasons to do or not do your own brakes for the first time). You can have a professional do it, or you can DIY. BTW, the topic is discussed in the FSM under the Body & Trim chapter, Windshield and Windows section.

Nope, no e-lockers unfortunately. In fact, terribly limited options. Be prepared: R50's are the bastards of the entire Nissan truck/SUV line-up! For the front, there is the Lokka and ARB. For the rear, ARB and TJM (air). The ARBs just came down in price, so both run about $950 now before OBA gear. The TJM engagement mechanism, in my opinion, would be a perfect candidate for a cable or elec. conversion, but it'd be entirely custom and probably not any cheaper than OBA. No sweat on the help! The NPORA folks here are awesome, and you'll get a ton more technical experience and feedback here...and without the Pirate4x4, JK-F, and JKO forum drama/BS/a-holes.

Yeah, glass coverage...something I always get now. It's paid for itself a few times on my Frontier, but I couldn't get coverage in IL for my WRX...$500 windshield (heating elements) Any qualms with adding coverage, waiting a few months, and then making a claim? And isn't the built-in antenna an AM one only? As for the DIY replacement...I doubt it's difficult, but for the reasons mentioned, the warranty may be reason enough to get it pro-installed. But, you can get the tools you need from HF (removal kits, suction cups) for <$30. Just need the adhesive (also inexpensive, <$15). BTW, a replacement from Rock Auto (ignoring whatever issues people have with them) w/ Antenna and tint runs about $130...closer to $200 after shipping. So, for $250, that's a pretty budget-friendly DIY project.

For the rear diff, any 96-02 R50, 99-00(?) Frontier, or 99-00(?) Xterra with the axle code HG46 (but check with the JY that the Frontier/X ones are indeed 4.636 and not 4.625 per my notes in that other link). For the front diff, any 96-02 R50 with axle code HG46. Again, no other Nissan diff or gears will work. My local JY sold them for $135 each. Getting them off of the vehicle is pretty easy...but probably a little more challenging when the JY doesn't allow floor jacks or jack stands for getting the front diff down. If the vehicle is listed as "locking" (ask the JY), then it has an LSD. But you should see that orange sticker on the rear axle. Since the non-locking (open) and locking prices are likely the same, may as well go for one with an LSD. Earlier Fr/X's had a small window of better torque numbers... Taken from another thread of mine: http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/40280-was-the-factory-lsds-breakaway-torque-any-good/?p=758726. The Hardbody and WD21 Pathfinder diffs have different spline counts and won't work. The front diffs are all open, but if you're interested in locking it, a Lokka lunchbox locker is on sale still for $250 I think.(http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/40513-lokka-automatic-locker-group-buy/)

96-02. Some background why 4.636 is your only option: http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/40619-rear-axle-id/?p=760750. Long story short, you can pull rear diffs from other Nissans, but only R50 front gears/diff will fit an R50...so you have only two OE options. The rear axle model is H233B, and the front is R200, by the way. More info on the R200: http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/40656-r200a-vs-r200awhats-the-diff. I'm working (albeit extremely slowly) on putting the non-R50 R200 into an R50 so that it opens gearing options (particularly those OE 4.9's). Since this will surely come in handy, the Factory Service Manuals are available online, btw: http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/Pathfinder/. Just download all the files for your 2003 to a local directory, and you're set.

So even with the seat cushion out, that doesn't given enough clearance to pull the interior panel off? Or is there just not enough space on the side of the panel even with the weatherstrip removed to pry (separate) the panels from the door? You should be able to use some sort of 90° or hook-like tool (like a straightened metal coat hanger with a bend at the end of the wire, or a paint can opener) to work the clips loose from the door. You only need move the panel maybe 1/2" from the door. I'm seriously tempted to try this on my truck tonight

The last time I asked people for help changing my clutch, I remember getting no help and bear-hugging a transmission off, and back onto, the engine (2wd Frontier). I wish you luck! One way I usually confirm a leak's location is to completely degrease, scrape, and clean the area, then wait. As B mentioned (and I agree), some of those spots look old. I see the shiny spot you're talking about (and what appears to be a drip on the pivot) and the only reason for suggesting it was coming from above is because that pivot appears to be over an inch wide and round, so it's just collecting anything above it. If you remove the baffle on top the of the transmission tunnel that goes around the shifters, you should have line-of-sight to the boot. If it's greasy on top, the boot is your culprit.

Not sure if any R50 had auto hubs; I'm pretty they were fixed hubs for both full-time and auto-mode systems, but someone can correct me there. Whatever the case, the manual hubs replace them. The purpose of the hub is to connect the CV axle to the wheel hub. An auto hub senses torque loss and will automatically connect the two (it's normally disconnected). A fixed hub is basically splined gear that's always in place to keep them connected. A manual hub allows you to manually connect them; when you turn the knob, it pushes a splined gear into place to make the connection. Because it's manual, you'll always need to get out of the truck to lock it if you want to use 4wd, regardless of which 4wd system you have. This is because the front wheels are mechanically disconnected from the drive train—you can attempt to put the system into 4wd, but power will not go to the front wheels until the hubs are locked. It only affects anything when it's unlocked, but as above, if in 4wd and the hubs are unlocked, no power goes to the wheels. And just to clarify, this isn't exclusive to the RR hub...all manual hubs obey the same principle. That all said, manual hubs have the benefit of being able to disconnect the hub from the CV, which just reduces some drivetrain drag on the vehicle (when unlocked, the CVs, front diff, and front driveshaft don't rotate), hopefully freeing up a little MPG and reducing wear on those components. For guys who had auto hubs, this is a way for them to ensure that the hubs are locked when they need them to be locked (common complaints were they either didn't lock at all—stuck—or locked when it was too late—still stuck).

You sure that leak's not coming from the shift boot above it, and just accumulating on the pivot? I can't see any reason why the pivot would go far enough into the t-case to require a seal or o-ring...I'd be certain it doesn't, especially since it doesn't have any fastener (only those at the end of the brackets). I had a similar leak coming from the shift boot on my 2wd MT Frontier long ago. Apples to oranges here, but more likely to be the cause. Don't you guys need to fill it up the t-case a little extra?

Wouldn't you have the clearance if you removed the lower seat cushion? I thought it was only held in by a couple bolts. Removing door panels is trivial, just need a little angle to tilt the bottom away from the door. Shouldn't incur any damage this way.

Ha...no tuners...at all. There are some ECU re-programming options, but not sure which (if any) do speedo recalibration. I've not seen any talk about it for R50s strangely, but on other Nissan SUV/Trucks, it was as easy as changing a speedo pinion on the vehicle speed sensor. I'm not sure if the vehicle speed sensor (VSS) has a removable pinion or not, though. Some did, some didn't. There was also a chart for the different teeth count, but it's probably been nearly 15 years since I remember seeing it. I'm sure I could dig up some info, though. The other option, of course, is to re-gear. However, you have exactly one option: 4.636 gears from another R50, which equates to about a 31" tire upgrade.

Nah, no center caps on the front wheels. The manual hubs stick out a perfect amount as is, I think. He did it because he saw some interference between the manual hub and OE wheels. I didn't find this thread until several months after getting the truck and swapping the wheel studs, so I never thought to check. It just looked like the right stance for the truck, so I never had a reason to challenge fitment without them, and since I was planning to keep the spacers, longer wheels studs wouldn't hurt. Plus, I couldn't stand the mismatched thread pitches. Not really a mystery on the auto-mode systems. The auto-mode system has several sensors to determine when to engage or disengage a particular traction mode. It's basically determining the delta between the front axle and the rest of the vehicle. If you have it in "Auto" mode, it's expecting the driveshaft to be spinning, and will compare its RPM to what the ECU detects is should be. If the delta is big enough (as in the case where the vehicle is moving but the front axle isn't spinning), it assumes you've lost traction and attempts to engage 4wd, but can't because parts need to be rotating for the t-case gears to mesh up. There's a sensor to detect when it is engaged. If the system says "the t-case is engaged now" but the t-case sensor says "no I'm not", well, there's the problem. The assumption is that by putting the mode in 2wd, the system doesn't care that the front driveshaft isn't spinning and won't attempt to engage 4wd. The above concept is no different for us part-time 4wd system users, we just lack almost all the sensors. There's a sensor to detect whether you're engaged or not, and that's about it.

There's also a good old fashioned burnout... One round-about way that I've found is to use Nissan's parts website (parts.nissanusa.com), key in your VIN, and try to look up individual parts for the LSD (Power Train [F] --> Rear Final Drive [380] --> LSD (H233B) tab). You'll be able to see the parts explosion, but if you click a part (such as the label, 38303), it'll say "No Parts found...". This basically means your truck never had the sticker, or other LSD-related parts. I think your dealer can also do a more comprehensive VIN check. But lifting the axle up is the surefire way.

Guess it wouldn't hurt...they'll have some giggles I'm sure. It's not really definitive about wheel fitment for the SE models with the 16"...fact is, it might not even require a spacer like the OP mentioned. Eventually I'll put OE wheel studs back on and will know for sure if the spacers are needed or not. The thing about the 4wd light, though, is that it only potentially affects those with auto-mode 4wd. But if it was switched to 2wd, I don't know why the system would throw a fit at all. Silly sensors.

Cool, I'll see what I can do. I'll try to cross-ref the fender too, to see if that opens up some options for two older QX4s that are supposed to be there. If you wanna PM me with some close-up pics of the damaged areas, and the fender in general (perhaps both sides of the truck) for comparison, that'd be great. Not sure I can get there this weekend, but we'll see.

Ha, I missed this part. Yeah, I'd be cool with that too! patqx4: Certainly, I think I can work out a trip sometime. Though, is the rusting too bad that the couldn't be removed, sanded, and repainted? I swear I've seen another post where somebody did that. If anything, the pieces I'd find here probably have the black flaked off, but for sure in good shape.

Easiest way is to look for an orange sticker on the pumpkin of the axle, indicating the use of LSD oil only. You can also lift up the axle (both tires up, t-case in N) and spin a tire by hand...if the opposite tire goes in the same direction, LSD. If neither hold true, you're open. Couple other ways, too. You've got a 4.363 gear ratio, btw.

I think it's because of the wheel center bore. I didn't think they had changed over the years, but that might've been the case and they were too lazy to fix it. But, I would that that even that were the case, nothing some minor grinding wouldn't fix. Though, I think I've put my wheels on without the spacers before (couldn't tighten it because I ran out of threads on my longer wheel studs), and I don't recall a problem. Maybe they just never checked...who knows.

You should have no problem pulling the weather stripping out even with the door closed. Just did it on mine. However, the real problem is that it doesn't look like you could remove the door panel anyway with the seat cushion where it is. It sounds like it's a crappy combination of a broken outer handle and the child lock being engaged. If you suspect it's the child lock, a butter knife (or even the key) can be used to disengage it...and the reason I know is because I just accidentally locked myself in my back seat (I have kids so I use the safety locks). I was able to use my key to push the lever over and open the door from the inside without removing the weather stripping. It does sound like your interior handle and door lock still function, right? If you have lock-out service on your insurance, you can also utilize that. Any locksmith should be able to handle this. You could also take off the interior panel on the opposite door to see if you can get any reference. If the latch seems jammed, try pressing the door in and out with some force (and handle pulled) to see if that un-jams it. Good luck!

They'll fit. I have an 04 with the RR hubs. In fact, I own the original poster's truck... Since you have the 17" LE wheel...

The JY that I frequent sold me all the flares off an 02 R50 for less than that. It wouldn't surprise me if they'd sell the fender and flare for under $125...there's an 03 QX4 there. If you want me to check it out sometime, let me know.

"Best" is subjective, of course. If it's listed as fitting anything 96-04, it'll fit an 04. If you're just looking to reduce driveline drag, the RRs are fine.