Terranovation

I've never taken the top cover off since I've had this beast, I should do it next time I do the oil change to see what it looks like in there. Will I need a new gasket from Nissan or can you just reseal the old one with gasket goo?

Sand the whole thing down with wet n dry sandpaper 320 grit, then wash it really well with plain water. Dry it off with a clean lint free cloth. Apply metal primer, wait an hour or two for it to dry, apply 2nd coat of primer. Wait 24 hours then sand that with a fine grade 600 or 800 wet n dry sandpaper. Wash it off and dry with cloth. Now apply your color, 1 or 2 hours between coats. Apply 4 coats overall. Then after that if you want a bit of extra gloss and paint protection you could apply two coats of clear coat. Leave it in a nice warm area to dry thouroughly. This is how I would do it for a nice smooth paint job.

Possibly I could use a air gun with a rubber hose attachment to get pressure inside the sump then quickly pull the hose out, would the same principle work to get more old oil out?

The only bad thing with having the intercooler is look at where the oil fill plug is. You have to take the intercooler off to put oil in. I know this because my Terrano is exactly the same TD27 engine.

If you relocate the speakers in the back you'll have a bit more sleeping area too. I ripped out my old original speaker housings and installed Sony home theater speakers on the sides. Heaps more room in the back and you can use them as a handy cup holder too since they have these sw holes in them that fits a cup, as long as you are careful not to spill anything inside them! I would also recommend taking along a 'quick fix' tool kit, just standard tools you normally need for fixing any issues you might encounter. I would take (minimum) screwdriver, Phillips head screwdriver, socket set, rachet and breaker bar, electrical tape, spare oil, trans fluid and coolant, 2 gallons of fresh water. I say take lots of water because I remember late last year, it was the middle of summer and my wife and I were driving home to the city from Kalgoorlie and this guy was stuck with a blown tyre in the middle of nowhere on this hot dusty track. Lucky we had lots of water onboard because this guy didn't have any water and he drank like 2 litres of ours which at a time like that in an emergency I wasn't bothered by. The guy might have passed out from heat exhaustion because he forgot water.

I used a quart of ATF in my engine oil it seemed to be cleaner inside from looking inside the oil fill hole. In the past I have also used kerosene but I never ran the engine with it in there, just in case of an explosion or something. I drained the oil then put the sump plug back in then poured kerosene in so it would settle in the sump to loosen up any black goop down there for a couple of hours. When I drained the kerosene out there was a bit more black stuff that came out with it.

Ok I want to hear your thoughts on this, is it important to flush the engine oil every time you change it or do you do it every 2nd change? Do you flush the engine at all or not worry about it? What is the best product you have found to give the best clean result? What else have you used to flush your engine with? Kerosene? ATF? Is it safe to use other liquids that have a degreaser effect in them? I just want to hear your views on this because I was talking to a guy at the local auto takeyourcash store and they say the engine oil flush in a bottle are just kerosene.

Did the oil change and installed new oil filter. I put in the 6.2 litres of oil as recommended and the dipstick shows bang on the full mark. Next week I'm draining the coolant and flushing it out, I have a fresh 5 litre container of Tectaloy 90 waiting to go in. I will pull out the coolant reservoir and clean that out too since I'm putting fresh coolant in.

Lol that's what I do too. They are also cool to open up with a can opener, see what crud is inside. Also make cool ashtrays for the smokers out there.

When you have bashed the hell out of your oil filter and finally removed it, grab your new filter and using a waterproof marker, put a big arrow on it so it reminds you which way the thing unscrews for next time! I did this after accidentally tightening the bejeezus out of mine. Eventually got the thing off with a pair of heavy leather gloves to get grip on it.

You are welcome, at least it's good to know that my video helped, now you know how to take it apart to fix the globe!

D is 4th gear, overdrive is technically a half gear extra so it's a 4.5 speed auto

He's referring to the latch plate for your rear tyre carrier. Have a look where the latch plate is. It's a piece directly below where your rear wiper bracket is. If the tyre carrier isn't sitting on that plate down near your bumper then of course it's gonna rattle. Simply a matter of unscrew a bit, adjust up a bit, recheck. And remember "Close it hard because if you don't it's not shut properly."

Take the overdrive off as you slow down at lights, it reduces strain on the trans and you'll get more braking pressure. Otherwise it's like you are trying to brake when you are still in 4th which won't be very helpful.

When you turn up the stereo so you don't have to hear the mirror creaking.

Or when you close the door it sounds like the hatch of a submarine CLANK!

Best way to get the air bubbles out of the cooling system is park on an incline so the nose of the Pathy is up higher thus the radiator is at the high point so any air towards the back of the heater core will force it's way towards the radiator cap end. Only open the radiator cap when it's not hot, then run the engine and top it up, wait for the radiator to 'burp' out any air bubbles and keep filling until it stops belching out anymore air bubbles.

Try loosening the park cable then climb underneath you'll find a couple of bolts you have to undo that backs the cable off a bit then try the park brake again.

Thanks! I was looking at those metal levers inside the switch and noticed they move up and down with each individual click of the switch. Are they meant to be bent like that? Also I noticed with mine had what seemed to be sticky oil substance in it.

Thanks! I was looking at those metal levers inside the switch and noticed they move up and down with each individual click of the switch. Are they meant to be bent like that? Also I noticed with mine had what seemed to be sticky oil substance in it.

It might be the brake caliper on one side that has seized. If one of the wheels feel hot after a drive then yeah it's a seized brake caliper, what happens is there's a piston inside and if it doesn't release then your brake pad is going to be on the disc constantly and will wear down. I wouldn't be driving it around much otherwise you'll be up for new disc and brake pad. It cost me $250 to get a rebuilt brake caliper installed and they bled my brakes and refilled with fresh fluid too. Luckily I didn't need new brake pad because I drove it straight to the mechanic who knew what the problem was instantly. Apparently he has been getting a lot of people with seized calipers.

Pulled my dash out and fixed the turn signal indicator one side wasn't flashing so replaced both with new less. Tried fixing my light switch because on high beam only one headlight works. Couldn't figure out which contacts to clean on the thing so I screwed the lever back on and buttoned it up for now.

I'm so glad they don't salt the roads here in Australia. We don't have any snow in Western Australia it's a very Mediterranean climate so we don't have the problem with rust although perhaps people who live near the coast can have problems with rust due to the salty sea air. In regards to the rust repair if it's irreparable then I wouldn't drive it, I'd scrap it for parts. Think on the good side, you'll get some cash to buy another one and saved yourself from ending up plowing off the road having an accident. Basically you'll be saving yours and others lives, which is always a good thing!

I'm thinking the temp sensor might have a problem with it since you said you replaced it. Maybe it's the wrong type? I would install an aftermarket temp gauge so you get a more accurate reading.

Bridgestone Desert Duelers, great on/off road and last for ages. My rear tyres have been on there 100,000 km and still have depth in tread lol