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Everything posted by SpecialWarr

  1. @acfreak I'm guessing that yours is a manual also? I have an auto and it doesn't like to go faster than 65mph. The 3 point _slow_ only has 158 hp from new so going up hill in a 3900lb truck isn't going to be that zippy! I would suggest cap-wires-rotor and plugs because that will make a difference, but fuel filter and air filter most likely need to be changed
  2. I will give you 1000 Kanuckistan dollars for it!! Nice score!!
  3. Well, I bought mine as a project vehicle back in 2013 and had not sat in one since my dad rolled ours back in the early 90's one snowy night on the way back from work. I bought mine because I wanted a cool vehicle, but I was (still am) poor so in my case BOTH!
  4. When you haven't driven it in a while, hop in and recall that there is a crap-ton of space in the back!
  5. Banned for being overly concerned about what other people say.... AND hating on Photobucket!
  6. All y'all are banned for not keeping me in the loop, damnit! Sent from my SM-G390W using Tapatalk
  7. Hey look at that... I just tipped over the 1000 posts benchmark! YAY!!!

  8. I have to go with Manik on that one.... I was thinking a relay at first but the truck would have started back up immediately if it was.... then only other things that are left really are the main ground strap or the fusible links. Main ground strap would have everything off no lights at all) but might be an easy diagnose: pull on the strap, if the other end comes off, there is your problem! The fusible links are easy to overlook as long as they keep passing current through them! Look for a mushy... uhh try.... "feel" for a mushy wire cover (probably the black one) on the fusible links. That will be your problem link ( if it has gotten overheated from running a lot of current for a while); replacements are available but you'll need to figure out which one it is and its amperage (which should be in the wiring diagrams of the Service Manual). Good luck!
  9. Misfire code and system lean code, both point to a fuel supply problem so start there. I would change the fuel filter for starters, worst case is that it delivers the same amount of fuel! The misfire could be anything from electrical to mechanical to electronic but the usual process of elimination of possibles is more important now.
  10. The Gospel has been spoken! If Mr. Reverse says then it be!! A 2" lift should make it easier to drill out all the exhaust studs and install the M10 studs from the Z31 as well!
  11. Depending on where you are , I have a fully operational VG30 installed in my old truck and running... swing by Montreal, QC and we can pull it out some weekend.... gift/ donation / donor to keep another WD21 running.
  12. The Throttle Position sensor is possible but I suspect that the intake just needs a good cleaning for starters (watch the coolant lines going to the bottom of the throttle body and the 1 vacuum line on the bottom of the boot from the MAF). After that I would be at the aux. air idle thingy just in front of the firewall and next to the brake booster.... the tall thing with the electrical plug on the top of it.... that probably needs a good cleaning as well since its usually gunked up with PCV leftovers... As far as the MAF, cleaning _will_ help but adding an additional ground wire will also help. The TP adjustment is kind of finiky but requires a multimeter and someone who has the info for what values are needed for closed and full throttle.... @adamzan or @Mr.Reverse possibly. I don't recall those off of the top of my head. (You might want to do a search for TP sensor setting in here or google). The engine coolant temp is likely a poor ground on the back of the cluster or a thermostat that's stuck open. IF you go with the cluster make sure you have a 2" #2 Phillips screwdriver for the one screw at the top of the cluster and a 6" #2 for the rest of them. You'll then need a #1 or a #1 JIS to snug the screws on the back of the cluster down. That's about all I can help you with!
  13. Ahhh.... I'd forgotten how much fun it was to just have the kids on my lap and driving around the lawn in the Pathfinder.

  14. The Power windows is most likely the drivers' side master switch, I replaced mine a few years ago and then just made myself a dual pole, dual throw switch wired directly to the main power. A DPDT switch is about $5 and is wired in a sort of cross with the wire of one lower pole arcing over to the upper part on the opposite side with power and ground going to the center poles. The tacho and fuel gauge is a broken ground somewhere on or next to the fuel pump (most of the time?) or near the front of the tank where the wires come out and head forward. Back hatch is nothing other than the lift struts which you can pull off with a flatblade screwdriver and a 10mm socket( if memory serves correctly). $2500 sounds steep but IF everything worked and it looked clean I might be interested at that price. In its current state I would say closer to $1700 but that's just my two cents worth!!
  15. And for the UUUUUber techie among us: The apparent advancement of the belt indicated by the marks on it in relation to the marks on the gears is a function of the number of total teeth in the assembly and the length of the belt. An even number of total teeth will "advance" the belt 2 teeth per complete rotation and an odd number of total teeth will "advance" the belt 1 tooth per rev. Don't know why... they just do! A fun way of seeing that in person is to play with the Lucas Oils gear display at the local auto parts store if they still have one.
  16. Audi A3 3.2L v6.... yea or nay?? I've hears that they are a bit demanding in terms of maintenance... Opinions?

    1. Faulcun


      ALL european cars are expensive to maintain. My rule of thumb is to stay away from euro, and usa domestic cars. I get customers all the time who find a sweet deal on a bmw or mercedes or whatever else, and have a heart attack when the repair bill is written.


      With that being said, if you like it, go for it. Just remember, cars will always decrease in value, but the cost to repair them does not.

    2. SpecialWarr


      Well.... I pulled the trigger on the A6 3.2l... full maintenance records and nothing interesting to see there. So here;s hoping that this car does better than the gen 2 Xterra that I just sold as a major loss!!

  17. Manik: good call.... That's pretty much what I was thinking as well.
  18. Well.... the Xterra is up for sale if anyone (adamzan!) is in "need" of a manual 6sp 2006 with _all_ the receipts! Smokin' deal for you guys!

  19. Were those the little orange wires? Those should be thick and tight since they are 75amp or 100amp fusible links.... Your problem, methinks, was there long before you took the wires off! If she was stalling when you were moving them around then they have already been overheated and melted inside their liners. Basically you need to get some more (pick-n-pull is a good place to start) fusible links!
  20. No difference in the blue dot or the black dot, my 1990 came with the blue dot injectors, replaced with a couple of Densos just because I was changing the fuel lines in between the rails and I had a bad injector (fouled I think) #2 if memory serves.... I think the Denso are the OE injectors, someone who knows for sure will hopefully correct me on that if I'm wrong. As far as the motor mounts goes I have no idea, never pulled the motor or watched it shake more than 3/4" even under throttle snapping.... Anyone else?
  21. Full ladder and 4x4?? Conversation with wife: Baby? ummm, we have to make some changes to our vacation ot Cape Cod this year. Oh, are we not going there? Oh no no... we just have to make a small detour before we get there so I can pick up some Pathfinder parts! Alright, as long as it isn't a big detour I guess that's okay. Oh no... quite a small detour for a good frame.... we just need to swing by Utah after New Hampshire to go and get it and we'll be on the Cape in a few days!! [enter new character: annoyance] Ah.......no.
  22. In that case: excess air is getting in and not being burnt if your HC is up, it's possible that the NOx is your intake air leak / pirate air. But knowing how easy it is to tear the bottom of the intake boot AND have a leaking injector I'm going to suggest that you have both problems until you can rule out positively that you have no air leak.
  23. That wire is part of the motor grounding circuit and not really of concern. I suspect that there is pirate air getting in around the intake somewhere (yes.. very helpful, I know) but without a can of propane / something else that catches fire I can't help ya much. The only other thing I can think of is a blockage in the fuel delivery system (back to your "stumbling" problem) but since it runs super lean at revs it could be one of the hoses or the fuel pressure regulator that's going out. I would think you would smell fuel in the cab if there was a fuel rail/ injector problem sooooo... it must be either before fuel gets to the fuel rails or air getting into the intake after the MAF That's how I would attack the problem.
  24. Did you get your hubs? I have a set on my 90 which are used, look terrible but still work. ( The chrome peels off something awful!)
  25. I have a Pathfinder... it needs help, I need time to help it.

    1. adamzan


      so are you keeping it?

    2. SpecialWarr


      Ahhh... it seems to be getting worse and worse without my attention. I might not be able to keep it as long as I thought. But it's value is close to zero at this point. My dad removed the interior up to the front seats to get firewood into it. My sister is "tired" of looking at it. Maybe it needs a home where it will be appreciated / saved / taken apart and ..  ?? ...spread around to other still running Pathys?

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