Mr. Pickles

Just got mine. That thing is freakin burly. We had to tow my brother's Mustang the other day, and he had one of those typical $15 straps from Walmart. The P.O.S. was mangled after only its 2nd use, and in the trash it went. Not this bad boy.

Same here. 94 SE with the full chrome package that 88 keeps wanting to steal, but no LSD.

Probably stolen, stripped, then burned.

There are a lot of general HID conversion websites out there, even kits available on ebay that are supposedly fairly decent and easy to install. The problem is you won't really have the HID effect without the projector headlights, and those may be a bit more of a challenge to fab up. Here is 1 quick example. HID website

You ARE putting in a body lift while you're in there, right? :secret:

Search: "body lift" -study-

Yeah, probably when they went to the newer dash design.

Does the 91 have the digital ones like on my 94? Mine worked intermittently when I bought it, and it ended up just being a loose fuse in the box.

Have you run the ECU for any codes? Mine did this when the knock sensor died. It would run fine when cold until it switched from the pre-programmed loop the ECU uses at start-up to when it went to normal operating. It wouldn't idle to save its life, just hover around a couple hundred RPM's or do the up and down business and eventually die. Hopefully its something else like the MAF sensor though, cause the knock sensore is a pain.

I just ordered my strap too. 3"x30. Good eyes for the deal, this is something I've been meaning to buy forever. One of those things you don't think about much until you really need it, then you're S.O.L.

Dayum. How about 4 shocks and a stabilizer for $99. Shocks & Stabilizer

Also try giving the hood a good hit just above the latch, like 88 said. I've had 2 vehicles where this would do the trick.

Maybe try and squirt the latch with some WD40 or something?

Hovering around $1.97 (cheap) to $2.10 (more expensive) for regular unleaded here, south of Seattle.

Oh, and as for the ground, you could go directly to the metal frame and scrape off the paint before screwing in there or bolting to an existing bolt. But if you experience any feedback or distortion of the signal, you may want to run the ground to the stereo ground or directly to the battery. Audio components can be suprisingly sensitive to the quality and location of the ground.

I believe you would just need to use one of the 12V (male or female) wires for power, and tape off the other. If you use a fuse tap, you could probably use the female connection. A fuse tap is just a metal tab that you connect to a bus fuse and then insert the fuse back into the fuse box, allowing you to draw power. This is kinda a last resort though, and you want to tap the side of the fuse opposite the power coming from the battery. It is much better to just locate the switched power wire or the stereo, the remote power going from the stereo to the amp, or the cigarette lighter. You don't have to cut any of these, just get a snap on wire splice (can't think of the official name at the moment). Either way, fuse tap or splice, they are cheap. Just ask the people at your local autoparts store and they will point you in the right direction. It snaps onto the wire you are trying to tap into, and also onto the 12V power wire you have. You would just cut off the male/female connector on the wire you are using.

I don't think the water pump could just stop working, then work again later. Its kinda a one-way deal. It dies, and its dead. Are you sure you got the right temp for the new thermostat? It could be waiting till too hot of a temp before opening.

Bad thermostat maybe, not opening up and letting the cooland circulate. If that's it, you'll be happy cause its a cheap fix.

The 2 obvious ones would be a stud or ball type mount, where there is shaft for the shock and a nut to hold it on (maybe this is 2 types ) and a bolt. If I remember right, at least for the rear my Pathy has a stud on the bottom and I think one on top too. Can't remember though, and its too cold out to check.

You seem to have adopted the pic of Mr. Jim's Pathy, our wise leader. Don't worry, we won't confuse you as him. -thnkboutit-

Or you can build your own, with varing levels of success. My Rack Then you can blame yourself if it doesn't meet your needs.

Don't fret, if you can get your stock Bose stereo out of the dash, this is a simple install. Locate the antenna wire, should be a pretty thick (0.25-0.5 inch, probably black) wire with a metalic plug at the end, which has a metal plug/tab in the center (at least that's how most all antenna wires are). Just plug the FM modulato in-line into the antenna, with the antenna wire going into the antenna input on the FM Modulator, then the output from there back into your stereo.The "12V power terminal" just refers to a switched power source. If you can locate the remote power turn on for the amp or a switched/accessory power source running to your stereo, use that. We're just looking for something that only turns on when the key is in the on or ACC position in the ignition. Otherwise, tap into a switched power source such as the cigarette lighter, or use a fuse tap and plug into a switched source in the fuse box ($1.99 part, ask your local auto shop for one and instructions, very easy to use). Connect the indicated wires for the modulator, find a ground, and you're done.

How about just buying a set of Accel or similar buil-your-own for a V8, then slide the long boots off the old wires and onto the new ones. The local shops sell those wires for like $35, and you can pick your color. Did the Bosch Platinum 2's and they were ok, the cap and rotor set me back like $40 at Napa, and was way higher at the other stores.

Check the small section of rubber fuel line just to the left of the distributor on the intake manifold. I just had a gas smell, and this was the problem, and I remember other people saying they've had issues with this small hose before.

Ok, I think I solved it. Removed the EGR and it was nasty, so I sprayed the lower half several times with carb cleaner and worked the valve until the action was nice and smooth and easy. Then I disconnected the battery to reset the ECU, and I've been driving on it for 5 days now with no problems. Also, I found the gas smell to be at least partly from a loose clamp on a fuel line. Good times, free fixes.